What would you like to do?
Replacing SAAB 9.3 rear brake pads (backing off the caliper piston without requiring use of special tools or re-bleeding the brake system):
Note: SAAB 9.3's DO NOT have an hydraulic actuating piston adjusting screw on the back side of the rear brake caliper/hydraulic actuating piston assembly as the earlier SAAB 900's do.
Assuming that the portion of the procedure involving safely raising and placing the vehicle on jackstands, removing the tire/wheel and removing the rear brake caliper/hydraulic actuating piston assembly from the rear brake caliper/pad carrier bracket went OK, the interesting part then becomes backing off the caliper assembly's hydraulic actuating piston (sometimes referred to as winding the piston in) to provide the additional clearance necessary to permit the caliper/hydraulic actuating piston assembly to then be able to accommodate the new (and therefore thicker) brake pads. It requires that the hydraulic actuating piston be rotated to the right (clockwise) while at the same time being pressed inward. SAAB service garages use a special tool to accomplish this but it can also be accomplished in your home garage with everyday tools as follows:
- use the tips of a pair of heavy needle nosed pliers (or end prong snap ring pliers or a 'U' bent heavy nail's shank clamped in long nose Vice-Grip plier jaws) to engage the two holes on the face of the hydraulic actuating piston to twist the hydraulic piston to the right a few turns until it turns somewhat more freely within its rubber dust seal (lubricating around the edges of the dust seal where it meets the face of the hydraulic piston with brake fluid helps).
- place a piece of 3/16" clear tubing over the the nipple of the brake bleeder valve after removing its dust cover and OPEN THE BLEEDER VALVE keeping the clear tubing pointing upward (important to keep air from possibly entering the hydraulic assembly; a small amount of brake fluid will come out but no air should be allowed to enter)
- apply an 8 inch 'C' clamp which has a ball jointed (hopefully lubricated) pad at the end of the clamp's jack screw such that the clamp's ball jointed pad rests centered on the face of the hydraulic actuating piston and the clamp's fixed pad rests on the back side of the caliper/hydraulic actuating piston assembly. Tighten the 'C' clamp enough so that the clamp will stay in place on its own and then give it another 1/4 turn on the jack screw (do not over tighten it as it would cause damage) .
- now using a pair of channel lock pliers, clamp them firmly around the outer perimeter of the 'C' clamp's ball jointed clamp pad which is resting in contact with the face of the hydraulic actuating piston and turn it 1/4 turn to the right, such that THE PAD AND PISTON ROTATE TOGETHER. If the pad skids on ther face of the piston instead of turning together with it, include a small piece of sandpaper or a knurled (bicycle axle type) washer between the 'C' clamp's pad and the face of the hydraulic actuating piston to improve the grip. The piston MUST turn while being forced inward.
- notice that the 'C' clamp becomes a bit looser as the hydraulic actuating piston retracts slightly with the 1/4 turn so re-tighten the 'C' clamp with a 1/4 turn of its jack screw after each 1/4 turn of the hydraulic actuating piston, repeating this operation until the hydraulic actuating piston has been backed off sufficiently to provide the caliper / hydraulic actuating piston assembly adequate clearance to accommodate the total thickness of the new thicker brake pads and the brake rotor.
- reassemble the caliper/hydraulic actuating piston assembly over the brake rotor with the new rear brake pads in place in the caliper / brake pad carrier bracket and refasten it onto the caliper carrier bracket (with its two Allen head bolts - applying a thin layer of grease to the shanks of the bolts and blue loc-tite reversible thread locker to the threads - replace the dust covers over these two bolts when fully tightened / torqued).
- CLOSE THE BLEEDER VALVE (obviously a most important item) and dry it and its surrounding area off completely.
- Start the engine to power up the hydraulic brake booster and pump the brakes firmly several times which will cause the caliper assembly's hydraulic actuating piston to self adjust the caliper's hydraulic actuating piston into proper relationship with the brake rotor.
- Re-check the bleeder valve to be absolutely sure it had been properly closed and that no brake fluid had issued when pumping the brakes in the step above and replace its dust cover.
- Open the cap on the on the master cylinder's brake fluid reservoir (under hood on the driver side firewall) and replenish any lost brake fluid (using only type DOT 4 brake fluid - do not allow any dirt to enter the master cylinder's reservoir)
- Test the hand brake and test drive the vehicle with several hard stops before considering the newly replaced rear brake pad job complete and the vehicle ready to be safely returned to service.
- This is a safety related procedure so please do the work with great care.
71 people found this useful
Was this answer useful?
Thanks for the feedback!
Answer changing the brakes on this car wasnt much different than any other car except the brake pads are held on by 2 rods that have 2 metal hooks 1 locks t…he pads and rods so they dont move the other one just keeps them separate i just worked on this car 2 weeks ago not real tricky, just a cheap set up.
Lift the car, remove the car tires, remove the brake shoe/calipers and remove the old brake pads. Put in the new brake pads, replace the brake shoe/calipers, replace the t…ire and lower the car to the ground.
Answer just like any other disc brake car.tho there is a HEX wrench needed to loosen the caliper. the largest size in most multi sets.
Answer Remove wheels Re-install 2 lugs nuts to hold rotor in place Remove 2 caliper mounting bolts Slide caliper off rotor Use "C" Clam…p to retract piston into caliper body Replace brake pads inner and outer Re-Install caliper REMEBER TO PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIOR TO MOVING VEHICLE
Answer Take off the brake calipers, but let the brake line be mounted. Attach the caliper to a string so that it does not hang by the brake hose. Take out t…he old brake pads. Compress the pistons together. You may need a special Saab tool for this. Apply some copper paste or similar grease to the sides of the caliper and mount the new brake pads. Check that everything runs smoothly before mounting everything back together.
I just did this today and the "special" tools I found I needed were: a 7mm hexagonal (six-sided) bit socket (one that will fit onto a ratchet...there isn't enough room to use …a hexagonal head screw driver) and that's really it. I assume that you have a ratchet set with metric sockets, brake lube, pads etc. This is an easy job don't worry.
It depends on what kind of Saab it is, but the principals are mainly the same. Just yesterday I changed the rear brake pads on my 2003 Saab 9-3 and it was really easy. Are you… just changing pads or are you changing the rotors as well? I guess I need a little more info before I can help you out. Get back to me i would be glad to help.
disconnect battery find level ground cock wheels find jack point remove wheel working on find caliper look for alliankey port apply pressure counter clock wise remove caliper …pins remove pads check rotors for wear replace if looks bad get a caliper depress tool to reset hub repeat on all brakes then take the pedal pump at least 5 times take car for atest ride power brake tor at least for half mile to brake them in
The dealer estimated $600 for a front brake job on my 95 900 SE Turbo Convertible, saying the SAAB rotors cannot be turned (machined smooth) safely, so this would have include…d new front rotors & pads.. I went to Kragen and got everything I needed for much less, I think around $200 total, and did it myself.. 2 years later, still stopping!
Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheel. Re-install 2 lug nuts to hold rotor in place. Remove caliper mounting bolts. Slide caliper off rotor. Use a "C" clamp to fully co…mpress piston into caliper body. Replace inner and outer brake pads. RE-install caliper. PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIOR TO MOVING VEHICLE
Brake pads are usually between $50 and $100 for a set (each axle), depending on quality. and if you really insist on turning your rotors, you are probably going to pay for 4 h…ours of labor total with pads installed and rotors turned, labor is also between $50 and $100 per hour. There are many variations as far as "brake jobs" go. You might get there and find out you need 4 calipers too... oops! tack on another $400. Do your self a favor and buy new rotors so your brake pedal doesn't pulsate after 10 miles of lead foot driving!
I have a 1996 Saab 9000cs and I was replacing the brake pads and calipers I learned this the hard way so hopefuly this helps someone. When you disconnect the brake lines from …the calipers remember to crimp the hose before you do it so no air gets back to the master cylinder if you get air in the master cylinder and you have ABS you have to take it to a specialist to bleed the brakes because it has to be done in symotanious order that's where I messed up and it cost me 400 dollars to bleed the stupid brakes. Also remember those calipers when you go to depress them they don't pushs traight down like most other calipers they twist in really weird but very effective I guess. Anyways hope this helps I have done lots of work on my 96 9000cs Turbo so I have lots of input and knowledge about them!
Do you have to bleed brakes when you change them. we just changed our rotors and pads in 93 ford ranger and now it is grinding?
It isn't necessary unless someone steps on your brake pedal and pushes the cylinders out. If you compress your brake pad cylinder back in and you do not see any leaks then you… are probably ok and are good to go...
us Cclamp to retract caliper leave old brake pad in place put clamp over caliper with 1 end on brake pad and the other over caliper back start to tighten very simple.
You need to bleed the brakes. Loosen the bleeder valve on one of the calipers and have someone press and hold the brake pedal. Tighten the valve and release the brake pedal. (…If you let off of the pedal with the valve loose, air will be drawn into the system and make the problem worse.)
you must first remove the axle then watch some tv. then toast some lovely crumpets and tea with jam.