What would you like to do?
The very first thing you have to do is kill the power to that outlet at the breaker or fuses. If you don't have a meter to check it, plug a radio in, turn it on, then start pulling fuses or tripping breakers until the raido goes off. If the plug has arced and welded itself into the socket, you may be better off replacing the outlet and starting all over again. If you don't know anything about electricity, get someone with the training and equipment to do the job safely.
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I rewmoved a stuck plug on a dodge van 318 fuelinjected motor by using a socket that was 1 mm to small for the plug (21mm) and a can of air for dusting off computers. I turne…d the can sideways and frosted the plug then pounded the socket on and used a breaker bar ever so gently about three times and presto it tuned, hard at first then I pulled of the small soket and used the regular one no problem. I have never heard of that, quite frankly. If the threads toward the piston are damaged, they wouldn't have gone in to begin with. (It sounds like the plug is coming out part way and then meeting resistance of bad threads or something.) Did a timing belt get off and let a piston smash a plug? The plug hole can be rethreaded if it's not too bad depending on the head material. I think I'd call my buddy at the head rebuilding shop. My father, a heavy duty mechanic, says: "clear the area, use a propane torch to heat the head around the plug, try to take it out while the plug is cooler than the head". I'd suggest keeping a fire extinguisher on hand, though. My father is a little crazier than I am :) I continually soak it in a high quality penetrating fluid. And turn it out a little and back in a little, back out a little and back in a little. Eventually, with a little skill you might get it without breaking. You may end up pulling the threads out of the head, but you can insert a heli-coil and get your new plug back in. May end up pulling the head if it doesn't go so well. I recommend you go out and buy some Break Away and let it soak for about 15 to 20 min. Then work it back and forth until it comes loose. Be sure you don't try the propane torch suggestion if you've already used a penetrating oil (or spray) of any sort-- you'd *definitely* need that fire extinguisher! It would be safer to apply something cold directly to the plug if you wish to take advantage of the same principle of differential thermal expansion/contraction, but I can't vouch for this technique as I've never used it. (The metal presumably conducts heat (and cold) better than the ceramic plug, so this reverse technique is doubtful.) Personally, I vote for the repeated applications of penetrating oil (let it soak) combined with *patient* back-and-forth screwing and unscrewing as recommended above. (And in the future use an antiseize compound on the threads of the new plugs and change them more frequently!--They're cheap!) In regards to using "anti-seize" compound, it's NOT a good idea to use this. It will reduce the friction your plug needs to torque the plug correctly (9 ft lbs. usually, check manuals). If you are unfamilliar with anti-seize compound or toque wrench usage, it is best to dry install. Hand tighten, then tighten a quarter turn after that. (aluminum heads only) As far as removing the spark plug, it's best to take it to a automotive shop. To do it yourself (depending if the spark plug is still whole or just the outer threads remaining in the head), PB Blaster is good to help "loosen" the grip of the reminant plug. You will need extractors and an extractor T-handle. Best bet though is to take it to a shop, as they are responsible for any further damages resulting from extraction. Shops are pretty darn good at this practice. Well worth the money and hardship. Appox. price range is 50-150 dollars. First--I agree with the spray it and then rock it back and forth crowd. I'll go both ways on the anti-seize: You CAN get away without it (just don't overtighten or go too long between changes). BUT, you can also use it; just don't use too much. It does make it easier next time. Second--JUST TO MAKE SURE--no one has mentioned/asked are you using a spark plug puller? There are specialty tools for this; they come stock w most ratchet sets. They have the rubber boot inserted to help not damage the plug and to cushion the application of force. USE ONE OF THOSE. Now for the upsell--they also have specialty tools (cheap) for getting the plug out that are like a wrench w a knuckle so you can twist better without having just a straight shot only. Specialty tools are not always necessary--but they are always helpful. You local stores have these--just ask. Take a slow walk through the tool aisle. Heat could be the answer but I don�t recommend the blow torch idea. Try running the engine up to normal operating temperature then unscrew the plug 1 /4 turn. Re-tighten it a bit less than 1 /4 turn and then unscrew it a bit more. Repeat this until the plug is free. If the plug is simply too tight or snaps there used to be a "helicoil" kit available. Admittedly it's been a few years since I quit the trade and I don't know if they are still produced. But using these kits involved removing the head, drilling out the stuck plug, tapping a new oversize thread and inserting a "helicoil". Some times being at a bad angle can make a big difference. If your at a bad angle with a standard ratchet try a flex head ratchet with a long handle (can also help in cramped areas) and/or possibly a long t-handle. Like everyone says above let it soak with penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench. I got mine to break loose this way. I was afraid to put too much force on it, but if you don't try hard enough you prolly won't get it/them loose. I also suggest using anti-sieze when reinstalling.
You can try to use some needle nose pliers. Get a good grip then twist and pull at the same time. Just work it it will eventually come out. They do make spark plug boot pliers… if you want to actually go buy it. I have never had to use it. Good luck. Sure fire way to remove a stuck spark plug boot without cracking plug. Tools: hypodermic needle, blowgun, discarded tire valve with stem removed. Remove plunger from needle. Insert inverted tire valve into butt end of needle. This forms an air seal. Insert needle into spark plug boot. Blow compressed air into the back of the tire valve stem while holding on to the needle reservoir as tight as you can. Keep face far away from boot while doing this. In no needle available flatten end of a piece of fine brake tubing without closing completely. Sharpen. Hammer into plug boot. Apply compressed air.
# Find the circuit breaker or switch that controls the wall outlet and turn it OFF. # Remove the faceplate. # Remove the upper and lower screws holding the wall sock…et in place. # Remove the two wires from the back or sides of the socket. Installation is the reverse.
Try reversing the drive on your ratchet handle and turning the socket in the opposite direction you were turning it when you got it stuck on the spark plug. Be sure to… use a six point spark plug socket. It's much harder to ruin a hex with a six point socket. After you get the socket loose, I'd recommend removing and discarding this plug and getting a new one.
easy. All you do is find something that is the same width as the tip of the prong. It needs to have a grippy handle and preferably sharp, yet not too sharp as you could damage… to prong/socket. Make Sure The Power Is Off!!!
Try to gently twist the bulb back and forth to break it free. If it simply wont give, then break the glass. Grab the bulb sidewall with needle nose pliers. twist to roll t…he side wall up, breaking it free.
To remove the stuck spark plugs, you can break them loose and then start to get them tighter as you rotate them out. The ratchet wrench can also be used to remove the stuc…k spark plugs.
He got an electric bill.
No wires have to be removed and the safest way to check a wall socket outlet is to use a plug-in "Household Socket Outlet Tester" that you can buy in most Do-It-Yourself store…s. Always read the instructions that come with it before you atttempt to use it. As you needed to ask that question, the best further advice anyone should give to you is to call in a licensed electrician and get a professional opinion about the electrical problem you wish to solve. Without first having had proper training about the safety precautions that must always be taken, no-way should anyone remove an electrical socket outlet from a wall or, indeed, from anything else. Without understanding all the risks that are involved, by doing such a thing wrongly you could easily cause a serious injury to yourself and/or to other people who use that socket outlet. Deaths by electrocution and house fires happen all over the world because of ignorance and carelessness. As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself, on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances, always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
He got an electric bill.
He was electrified....
he got an electric bill
yes, but you need to make sure you open the main breaker. Otherwise the generator could attempt to energize the street power and your neighbors as well, creating an overload a…s well as a hazard. You also need to verify that the branch circuit you plug it into can handle the load, otherwise you can start a fire.
Penetrating Oil a good brand like GUNK! Spray that down the sleeve and it should lubricate the socket enough to release it.
Black wire goes to brass colored terminal, white wire goes to silver colored terminal and bare wire goes to green colored screw.
No. The Smart cars use internal combustion engines - they're not electric.