How do you replace the air filter and cabin air filter in a 2002 QX4?

Answer 1

notes: i replaced my filters when purchased the vehicle at 65k miles. they were nasty. be prepared to clean a bit. i replace my filters every couple years.

the operation takes about 45 minutes for amateur like me, assuming there have been no significant changes in filter location & design or dash design since 2000 model:

1) purchase new filters. there should be 2 hepafilters per package. they're approx 4"X8" and quite pricey. you'll also need the following tools: Phillips & flat blade screwdrivers, pliers, vice grip pliers, flashlight, approx 12" length of coat hangar wire (optional), shopvac with needlenose attachment (optional), can of lysol (optional), ballpoint pen (optional).

2) empty and remove glove box - located two sliding pivots at bottom and outside of glove box door. slide the 2 plastic latches inward and pull the glove box toward you a few inches. locate the cable eye that attaches the glove box door to the counterweight. have the vice grips ready to clamp onto the cable that holds the counterweight, then remove the eye from the peg on the glove box door.

3) use Phillips screwdriver to carefully back out the plastic screws in the right side kick panel. you may have to remove one or two screws from the carpet edging in doorway.

4) looking at the side of the heater box, locate the vertical edges of the filters. the filters are held in place with a metal clip at bottom. its been awhile since I've replaced these - there may be one at the top, as well. use flat blade screwdriver/pliers to carefully remove the clips and keep them handy, as they'll be reused.

5) pull out the bottom filter first, then slide the top one down and pull it straight out. you may want to lay down a piece of cardboard or paper towels, these can be quite nasty. match the old filters to the new ones to ensure you have the right ones. if so, dispose of the old ones. this exposes the heater core, which is quite fragile. its also expensive and a real pain to replace, so be careful.

6) using pliers, bend a 90-degree angle in the coat hangar wire, about 1" from the end. using the flashlight to aim, CAREFULLY clean the slot at the bottom of the air box. use the shopvac needlenose attachment to clean out any filtrate that has been left in the airbox. you can use the lysol at this point to spray down that area of the air box, which is a haven for mold and mildew in humid climes.

7) open the bag with new filters and note how the edges fit one upon the other. note that one can slip in along the edge of the other. that's how you will need to install them. slide in the upper one first and hold it at the top of the slot with one hand while sliding in the second (bottom one). replace the clamp. if desired, use ball point pen to note date and mileage on the decal supplied with new filters. peel and stick the decal to the edge of the filter.

8) replace other parts in reverse order.

Good luck!

-j

notes: i replaced my filters when purchased the vehicle at 65k miles. they were nasty. be prepared to clean a bit. i replace my filters every couple years.

the operation takes about 45 minutes for amateur like me, assuming there have been no significant changes in filter location & design or dash design since 2000 model:

1) purchase new filters. there should be 2 hepafilters per package. they're approx 4"X8" and quite pricey. you'll also need the following tools: Phillips & flat blade screwdrivers, pliers, vice grip pliers, flashlight, approx 12" length of coat hangar wire (optional), shopvac with needlenose attachment (optional), can of lysol (optional), ballpoint pen (optional).

2) empty and remove glove box - located two sliding pivots at bottom and outside of glove box door. slide the 2 plastic latches inward and pull the glove box toward you a few inches. locate the cable eye that attaches the glove box door to the counterweight. have the vice grips ready to clamp onto the cable that holds the counterweight, then remove the eye from the peg on the glove box door.

3) use Phillips screwdriver to carefully back out the plastic screws in the right side kick panel. you may have to remove one or two screws from the carpet edging in doorway.

4) looking at the side of the heater box, locate the vertical edges of the filters. the filters are held in place with a metal clip at bottom. its been awhile since I've replaced these - there may be one at the top, as well. use flat blade screwdriver/pliers to carefully remove the clips and keep them handy, as they'll be reused.

5) pull out the bottom filter first, then slide the top one down and pull it straight out. you may want to lay down a piece of cardboard or paper towels, these can be quite nasty. match the old filters to the new ones to ensure you have the right ones. if so, dispose of the old ones. this exposes the heater core, which is quite fragile. its also expensive and a real pain to replace, so be careful.

6) using pliers, bend a 90-degree angle in the coat hangar wire, about 1" from the end. using the flashlight to aim, CAREFULLY clean the slot at the bottom of the air box. use the shopvac needlenose attachment to clean out any filtrate that has been left in the airbox. you can use the lysol at this point to spray down that area of the air box, which is a haven for mold and mildew in humid climes.

7) open the bag with new filters and note how the edges fit one upon the other. note that one can slip in along the edge of the other. that's how you will need to install them. slide in the upper one first and hold it at the top of the slot with one hand while sliding in the second (bottom one). replace the clamp. if desired, use ball point pen to note date and mileage on the decal supplied with new filters. peel and stick the decal to the edge of the filter.

8) replace other parts in reverse order.

Good luck!

-j