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This is a major repair requiring way above average skills and tools. If you process the skills, and the tools, purchase a repair manual and go for it.

Answer improved here...

first of all i want to say whom ever chose to write such a ridiculous answer... aught to be banned from this site..

secondly lets answer the question.. in steps...

1. buy replacement parts.. ( gaskets, new head bolts)

2. access tool need ( or mechanical shop)

3. understand what happens

4. put yourself to work

5. recheck everything two and three times...( we all have to do it)

6. test the vehicle around the block... short trips.. to establish use/trust and not destroy your work or hurt yourself if you have done something or left something outl. :)

Capish? Am I clear?

OK... item 3 and 4 are the same so pay attention. I will go through the steps as best i can.

1. remove/ detach battery from car.

2. remove/ detach air intake and associated wires hoses etc.

3. unbolt remove the intake manifold from the head.

4. remove the valve cover gasket.

5. remove the exhaust manifold from its connection to the car.. but leave it connected to the car/exhaust pipe itself...

6*** Here is the tough one... so i capitalize, it to get your attention

KNOW AND UNDERSTAND THE TIMING MECHANISMS AND RITUALS TO RETIME THE CAR.

if you don't know what i mean... i am talking about the belt direction, understanding of belt tensioners and pulleys etc.

retime = adjustment and coordination of the synchronization of the crank to the valves opening and closing... this part i am not going to tell you how to do.. go get a car book for 10 buck ish... for your car and motor...

7. remove the timing belt making white self timing marks on the valve pulley and associated marks on the belt ALSO making white marks on the crank pulley and associated marks on the lower portion of the belt.

most people use liquid white out... seems to work well...

8. unbolt the head... break it loose by loosing the bolts on the outsides first and work your way inside.

9. if it sticks to the block. hit it with a mallet or rest wood against it and strike the wood

with the hammer, 2X4 pine works best.

10 read the book to understand the bolt patterns and bolt tensioning practices... i don't know them for this car... use the right tools? don't guess at anything.

11. clean and polish the block and head surfaces.... I use a 3M green scrubby looking thing on a spinner cost about five bucks...

i forget what i used as a polishing fluid... i might have used marvel mystery oil...

don't use solvent with the green scrubby thing on the spinner ( drill driven)

12. reassemble.. use the steps in the book

just reverse the process..

12A. get the new gasket and set it in place... etc... i used the slightest film of high temp PVC stuff from the car store.

Always! use high temp COPPER gasket sealer adhesive. Its like 5 bucks at autozone. Go with PERMATEX its rated at 500*f temp handling. Some people say its best not to but if you watch Chryslers videos they use to teach there "pro's" then you can see they strongly recommend it.

12B rest the head back in place

be ready to plunge your bolts in place and hand thread down! to keep the gasket from sliding out of place...

12C torque your head bolts to correction tension using book info to introduce pattern and foot pounds of tightness.

12D re belt and re time the car... it is recommended to new timing belt water pump thermostat tensioner pulley.... all those things at once so you never have to go back into the mechanics of the car again... lol as long as you do it well that is!!!

12E re attach the exhaust manifold with new ex mani gasket... no goop to hot

12F re attach the valve cover and new gasket there

12G re attach the intake manifold with new gaskets...

if you do a V6 with a project like this... i did the ex and intake manifolds at the same time. :) you goop the intake its colder.. and wont cook the crap you put on .

12H re attach the air hoses and cables wires etc.

12I look over the car....

don't get excited you are not done...

12H look over the car... understand the timing ...

DONT RUSH IT YOU CAN BREAK STUFF HERE>...

make sure there are no bolts left over ... this is no joke....

look over all your wire connections... you will get this far and leave one clip apart and the car not run and it will break your heart....

refresh appropriate fluids here... understand how much antifreeze belongs in the system... DONT MESS THIS UP. will waste all your time... if you don't do this part right.

you can have an air bubble in your air system too which can come back to bite you...

read read read.

gave your car a try etc...

Im gonna NAG here... LOOK at the car... the motor and wiring and assembly... that you just did... first admire your work... second look for and att the parts of the process i outlined and you DID... remember your steps... HOW HARD WAS IT>.. did you leave anything apart...

NOW go start your car.

If you appreciate my HACK ... at answering this question... please drop me a line via email.... bill.bills66@ googles mail service (gmail.com). i would appreciate knowing my effort helped.

sincerely,

David

PS the very inner steps described here might be a little off...

You have to look at your own car / motor configuration to know which has to be removed in what order. :)

VERY HELPFUL POST!

I will be doing this job on my 05 Neon SXT soon. I just installed a Crane 10 camshaft and forgot to double check some bolts (camshaft bolt). VERY IMPORTANT that you make sure everything is tightened correctly even if you just plan to start it for a "quick check." I ended sheering my roller pin on the end of my BRAND NEW camshaft. Needles to say it jumped time so I need a new valves :( Decided to get a new head completely assembled and replace the new "old style" camshaft with my Crane #10 camshaft. All in all I found all the parts on Ebay to do this for just under $700. But that's including my performance cam, cam gear, new water pump, performance timing belt, tensioner, complete gasket set w/ new head bolts, new cylinder head, all the required lubes and fluids (including PERMATEX Copper Gasket Sealer), t55 socket, and the pulley puller rental (PN#27139@Autozone)

My advice: If you plan on doing this make sure you know you can do it and you have the right tools and time. Don't rush it, don't get cocky, and ALWAYS QUADRUPLE CHECK your work and PREPARE PREPARE PREPARE. The two most important thing you can do. Good luck.

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Q: How do you replace the head gasket located on a 1998 dodge stratus?
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