How do you replace the water pump on a 1998 Ford Taurus and what other parts have to be removed to remove the water pump?

Answer 1

DURACTEC / DOHC - See "Related Questions" below

Buy a Repair Manual for your particular car. Chilton and Haynes are OK but Michell is probably the best. and ASE recommended.

Most Taurus's came with either a 3.0 or a 3.8 engine. The water pump replacement is basically the same for both engines. Remove the coolant jug, break loose the bolts on the w/pump pulley, remove the belt, remove the pulley, remove the alternator, remove to Power Steering pump and set it aside. (you will need a power steering pulley puller and installer kit). remove any belt tensioners or brackets that hang in the way, remove the bolts holding the water pump to the timing cover, and remove the water pump.

Note: a 3.8 has extra-long water pump bolts that you may have to pull almost all the way out and then bring them out with the water pump assembly.

Helpful hint: Both the 3.0 and 3.8 have 2 motor mounts located on the passenger's side of the vehicle that are held to the sub frame by a large nut(approx 7/8" (front) 17.5mm (Back)). One is on the RF corner, the other is back by the firewall under the car on the sub frame. If you jack up the car and remove those nuts, the engine can be raised a little using a floor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan to give additional clearance at the fender apron to get the water pump in and out.

After removing the water pump, scrape gasket surface thoroughly, and install new pump. Evenly tighten the bolts, and reassemble the vehicle in the reverse order as dis-assembly. Fill with new coolant and burp out any air in the system. If you have a cooling system pressure tester, pressurize the system to verify there are no leaks.

If it is anything like the 96 GL Taurus. Then there are 4, 13mm nuts on the water pump and 3, 10mm bolts underneath and 3 hoses to disconnect from pump. You may want to remove the inside cover of the wheel surround to get access to the 10mm nuts under the water pump. If more room required, remove tyre from car.

You can remove the water reservoir to give yourself a bit more room when removing the water pump, but is not necessary.

remove the serpentine belt buy using a 3/8 ratchet (socket wrench) on the belt tensioner located just under the power steering pump. Releasing the tension by pulling towards the front of the car.

Tip - MUST HAVE Tool

For anyone working on a car's cooling system, you MUST check out the MUST-HAVE tool for dealing with those spring-type hose clamps!!

This tool has a pinching device on the end to securely grab the 'ears' on the hose clamp - squeeze the handle to open the clamp, and then automatically lock it open.

The next awesome feature of this tool: the clamping action is on the end of a cable - you work it down to the clamp buried down underneath, or directly next to some part of the engine - minimal clearance required.

The very very best $40 you will ever invest into your tool collection!

Sears makes one - check it out at a local store and linked below.

Try your local Library for the correct car repair manual. There is to many steps involved for a written description. Most Librarys carry Chilton or other car repair manuals. If they don't have it at the branch you try, ask at the desk, they can probably get it from another branch.

Most Taurus's came with either a 3.0 or a 3.8 engine. The water pump replacement is basically the same for both engines. Remove the coolant jug, break loose the bolts on the w/pump pulley, remove the belt, remove the pulley, remove the alternator, remove any tensioners or brackets that hang in the way, remove the bolts holding the water pump to the timing cover, and remove the water pump.

Note: a 3.8 has extra-long water pump bolts that you may have to pull almost all the way out and then bring them out with the water pump assembly.

Helpful hint: Both the 3.0 and 3.8 have 2 motor mounts located on the passenger's side of the vehicle that are held to the subframe by a large nut(aprox 21 or 22mm). One is on the RF corner, the other is back by the firewall under the car on the subframe. If you jack up the car and remove those nuts, the engine can be raised a little using a floorjack with a block of wood under the oil pan to give additional clearance at the fender apron to get the water pump in and out.

After removing the water pump, scrape gasket surface thoroughly, and install new pump. Evenly tighten the bolts, and reassemble the vehicle in the reverse order as disassembly. Fill with new coolant and burp out any air in the system.

Early models

It takes a long time. I removed the Anti-freeze and washer fluid tank. I removed the belt, the water pump wheel, disconnected the top hoses and the bottom radiator hose. I removed all the bolts and nuts and the unit stil hit the frame. I had to take a crow bar and push the engine over to get the pump to come off the 4 bolts that stayed on the engine block. After about 3-4 hours I finally got it out.

It went back in in about an hour. Tough but challenging job in a good way

It takes a long time. I removed the Anti-freeze and washer fluid tank. I removed the belt, the water pump wheel, disconnected the top hoses and the bottom radiator hose. I removed all the bolts and nuts and the unit still hit the frame. I had to take a crow bar and push the engine over to get the pump to come off the 4 bolts that stayed on the engine block. After about 3-4 hours I finally got it out.

It went back in in about an hour. Tough but challenging job in a good way

Hey Jesse==It is best when you attempt a big job like this that you get a manual on your vehicle from a parts store for about $18 which will tell you how to do the pump and belt and also will be there for the next repair. GoodluckJoe

first take of wire cover on top to give yourself more room then take off serpetean belt by taking a 15mm wrench to the tentioner and turn it clockwise to loosen belt then take off hose leading out the front of car the take off hte bracket thatthat holds a/c compressorbolts are 10mm them take off the nuts to water pump. before youcan get to hte lower hoses you must take off the front iner fenderwell. whatch out the heaterhose is a bear to get the clamp off. i took the big lower hose off first and then from top tyrned the water pump so i could get the clamp off for the heater hose needlessto say i change the clamp for a regular screw clamp once your there you can easily manuver the water pump out reverse to install.

Find the pump and replace it. Go to your local library and borrow a motor manual to help out. Yu need a few small tools too.

Drain water first! The 96 GL Taurus, there are 4, 13mm nuts on the water pump and 3, 10mm bolts underneath and 3 hoses to disconnect from pump. You may want to remove the inside cover of the wheel surround to get easier access to the 10mm nuts under the water pump. If more room required, remove tyre from car.

You can remove the water reservoir to give yourself a bit more room when removing the water pump, but is not necessary. Just be a tight squeeze to jimmy the water pump out, but it will come out.

remove the serpentine belt buy using a 3/8 ratchet (socket wrentch) on the belt tensioner located just under the power steering pump. Releasing the tension by pulling towards the front of the car. Bit of a tricky process but once you have the ratchet in place, let it fall as far as it can towards the firewall, I use a ring spanner on the handle of the ratchet for ease of pulling the ratchet back towards the front of the vehicle to release the tension on the belt.

If your going to replace the belt as well as the water pump which is a good idea and you know how to put the belt back on (Just look up at the diagram under the hood) I just cut the belt.

An alternative to a new Ford water pump which can be quite expensive are the GMB water pump which are 1/3 of the price but do exactly the same job. It comes with just the pump and the belt wheel and rubber gasket. Take off the wheel and pump off your old water pump using the right sized Allen key, clean off the old gasket and replace with new. You can use gasket glue but not necessary. Re tighten bolts evenly using Allen key. Put back in the car, replace belt, refill with water and voala!!!

Note: When removing or putting belt back on! After you have released the tension on the belt, remove belt from under water pump first when removing and last when you are putting belt back on.

! I am no A grade mechanic, but this is how I did my belt and water pump on my 96 GL Station Wagon and my car is still running smooth!

It depends on the year and the engine size...

3.0L -

• Remove the coolant reservoir
• Remove the serpentine belt
• Remove the water pump pulley
• Remove the bypass hose
• Remove the pump bolts and remove the pump.

If car is equipped with 3.8L engine, then the procedure is considerably more difficult.

Do the same first 2 steps - and then it gets messy:

• you have to remove the motor mount bolts and lift the engine out of the mounts -
• remove the water pump pulley
• remove the pump bolts - the main 4 are studswith nuts

  NOTE: after the nuts are removed you have to remove the studs to allow room for the pump to go by the timing chain cover

  NOTE: if you cant remove the studs then the motor has to come out - so get those studs out! ;)

Highly recommend at least one of the following:

• Buy a repair manual - if you see you're going to be doing much more maintenance and repairs on your Sable, it's a very good investment of about $18.
• Autozone offers free access to Chilton's Repair Guide at their website. This is an outstanding resource with diagrams and photos to guide the way.

Tip - MUST HAVE Tool

For anyone working on a car's cooling system, you MUST check out the MUST-HAVE tool for dealing with those spring-type hose clamps!!

This tool has a pinching device on the end to securely grab the 'ears' on the hose clamp - squeeze the handle to open the clamp, and then automatically lock it open.

The next awesome feature of this tool: the clamping action is on the end of a cable - you work it down to the clamp buried down underneath, or directly next to some part of the engine - minimal clearance required.

The very very best $40 you will ever invest into your tool collection!

Sears makes one - check it out at a local store and linked below.

NOTE: anyone who does this repair, please come back to Wiki s and add your experience and help others.