Could be Intake Gaskets, a common problem for this vehicle. Be sure to check for pin holes in the hoses that may give the illusion of a leak elsewhere when they spray a tiny stream under pressure.
The 1988 Dodge Dynasty coolant fan sensor is located a few inches above the thermostat housing. The thermostat housing can be found on the front of the engine.
Coolant temperature sensor is located on the front of the engine. The coolant temperature sensor is a few inches above the thermostat housing.
The 1995 Chevy Silverado coolant sensor is located on the front of the engine. The coolant sensor will be a few inches above the thermostat housing.
The 1993 Toyota coolant temperature sensor can be found on the front of the engine. The coolant temperature sensor will be a few inches above the thermostat housing.
The 2006 Toyota coolant temperature sensor is located on the front of the engine. The coolant temperature sensor will be a few inches above the thermostat housing.
The 2005 Chevrolet Equinox coolant temperature sensor can be found on the front of the engine. The coolant temperature sensor will be approximately 2 inches above the thermostat housing.
The 1995 Chevrolet Astro and coolant temperature sensor can be found on the front of the engine. The coolant temperature sensor will be a few inches above the thermostat housing.
The 1995 Lincoln Town Car coolant temperature gauge sensor can be found on the front of the engine. The coolant temperature sensor will be a few inches above the thermostat housing.
The 2001 Nissan Frontier coolant temperature sensor is located on the front of the engine. The sensor will be a few inches above the thermostat housing.
The 1997 Chevrolet Camaro 3.8 liter engine coolant temperature sending unit can be found on the front of the engine. The coolant temperature sending unit will be approximately 3 inches above the thermostat housing.
The 1988 Honda Accord coolant temperature sensor can be found on the front of the engine. The coolant temperature sensor will be a few inches above the thermostat housing.
about a foot or so to the right of the thermostat housing and down about three inches, on the drivers side engine compartment
I assume you are talking about the engine thermostat. Looking at the engine from the front of the vehicle, look for the water pump where all the black cooling lines come together (will be on the front of the engine, almost at the top). There will be a small bypass hose about 6 inches long that runs from one side of a small dome housing to the other. Inside that dome housing is the thermostat.
A tee is located to the right hand side of the intake manifold, on top you should see the coolant system cap, its silver in color and is about 2-3 inches in diameter. This tee is the thermostat housing, it goes to your radiator and engine block, remove it from the block and you should see the thermostat. Remember when replacing the thermostat, the spring side goes into the block! 2.0L and 2.4L it is under where the upper rad hose hooks to the engine. 2.5L it is under where the lower rad hose hooks to the engine.
There is a top radiator hose that runs parallel to the radiator. About six inches below the top hose is another hose that connects from the lower back right area of the radiator to the housing of the water pump. Where the hose connects to the water pump housing is where you'll find the thermostat on a '98 Deville.
Drain coolant (not a whole lot, just the top 6 inches or so) Remove 4 bolts on housing, You will probably have to remove one alternator bracket or the whole alternator. Pull out old, put in new, make sure to use new O ring. Reassemble
Follow the water hose to the distributor on the DOHC 4 cyl 1.6---the housing to be removed is a few inches from the distributor. Remove the distributor cap and other stuff if necessary. The Jiggle pin of the thermostat must face straight up when installed. Folow the thermostat included instructions. Acutemoon@phreego.com
Short Version: below the throttle body, on the motor, along the coolant path from the engine to the radiator. Long version: I have a 2001 Oldsmobile Alero (V-6). On my car, the top radiator hose is on the left (facing the car with the hood up, naturally) and goes back toward the motor. (For those who do not know what they are looking for, it is a large hose at least 12 inches or longer, it is usually black, and 2-2.5 inches in diameter, and the only other black, large hose nearby to confuse it with is the air intake going from a large black box, aka the air filter housing, to the throttle body). In this cooling system, coolant flows from the motor (after absorbing heat from the motor) to the radiator (just behind the grill) and flows downward through the radiator to the bottom hose (gravity goes down--this bottom hose looks the same as the top hose, but different location) where it runs back towards the motor to collect more heat. The thermostat doesn't actually measure the temperature of the coolant the way the "coolant temperature sensor" does, it is merely a pressure valve that will open with pressure (from hot coolant running through it) and close from a spring (when the coolant is not hot enough, and is therefore not pressurized enough to overcome the spring force of the thermostat valve.) This valve/thermostat is for the sole purpose of regulating coolant temperature; it does this by allowing hot coolant to go to the radiator and cool off, but if your motor is not hot, or up to its optimal operating temperature (for example, when you first turn on the car), the thermostat should recycle the coolant back through the motor, bypassing the radiator, to allow it to heat up. So, it is located along the flow of coolant after the motor, but before the radiator, and to find it you just need to follow this hose back (away from you and the radiator or grill) to where it ends. This top hose ends with a hose clamp holding it onto a metal pipe. Follow this pipe back towards the motor, and right at that junction is the thermostat housing. In order to get it off for maintenance (in my experience) you'll have to get a few other parts out of your way. 1. drain coolant (about two quarts +/-) so it is below the level you'll be removing parts from 2. remove the air intake hose and filter housing 3. if you can, with the right tools, reach between the throttle body and the exhaust heat-shield to get to the bolts that mount the thermostat housing to the motor. If not, the exhaust heat-shield and/or throttle body will have to be removed as well because they are very in the way of any tools you'd need to reach the bolts. hope this helps
The Cylinder Head Temp Sensor is located in the front to the right of the Thermostat Housing. I ground down a 3/8 drive 19MM deep socket to 1/1/2 inches to get it out. It takes time to get out but it works. Use a 3/8 extension to loosen it then work it out with your fingers. Remove the Fan Shroud and the Idler Pully bracket first. The Coolant Sensor is to the right of the Distributor.
The thermostat is 7 inches to the left from the headers. You will notice it on your motor, as a metal pipe that protrudes up with a bolt/opening before it meets the block. You can also follow the black radiator, the most noticeable one on top to the block and will see the thermostat right before it meets the block as stated up there. on the back side of the motor where the lower radiator hose connects to the engine. That housing is removeable and the t-stat is inside.
Put the car front end up wheel ramps, or if you do not have ramps but do have some 2x6 lumber lay the lumber down on the ground and stagger the second board over top of the first. This gives you a basic ramp for one tire and you raise the car 3 inches off the ground. Because this is work you got to do underneath the car. Get a clean 1 gallon pail so you can collect the coolant. Open the hood and remove the black cap that holds the coolant so air can get in. . Get into your dirty clothes and have a 10mm socket on a 5 " extension and on a ratchet 3/8" drive is good enough. . Crawl under about where the passenger sits. Follow the big bottom rad hose and that connects to the thermostat housing that is held in place with 2 black 10mm bolts. No imperial measure or inch socket will work here. 10mm or nothing. Loosen the bolts rotating counter clockwise. Have the bucket nearby and loosen one bolt but do not remove it, then loosen the other some and then use your hand and pull down on the big hose right near the thermostat housing and it will wiggle loose and start Peeing out coolant in a thin stream. Now, I am not in a rush so let it come out at a controlled speed so you collect it all. You can reuse it later. At this point I go have a coffee...rather than lay under the car. When the dribbling stops, remove the bolts and CAREFULLY REMOVE THE IGLOO THERMOSTAT HOUSING. A reusable rubber "O" ring will come out as well. There is no paper gasket. Now if you look straight up where the housing was you will see the thermostat up inside. If this is the case, then use your fingers to pull on it and hopefully you still have the bucket there because another 2 quarts will run down your arm and into the arm pit. Surprise ! Now you have removed the thermostat. Putting it in is the reverse of removing it. NOTE If your problem was no heat or overheating then it is not the thermostat you should be looking at. It most likely works dandy. To fill a VW radiator, you remove the upper rad hose and fill the rad hose up with coolant...this fills the back half of the engine that submerges the thermostat in coolant, submerges the temperature sensor in coolant so the rad fan clicks on to cool the motor when hot AND fills the heater core with coolant so it gets hot. . Then you put the upper rad hose back onto the radiator and tighten the clamp. Then fill the upper coolant tank with coolant as full as you can fill it(no air space) and put the black lid on. . Then on the passenger side inner fender there is another coolant tank which you HALF FILL UP WITH COOLANT. The lid on that tank is loose and is suppose to be loose. It just pops off when you push up with your thumbs,(and snaps down) It is meant to be loose because as the coolant heats up it expands and pushed the air out. > when the coolant cools down say overnight it sucks in air. You engine expands and contracts like your lungs idea. Then drive car and check the coolant level in the overflow tank (which is the tank on the passenger fender) the next morning when it is cold. You never want to be at MIN. because then you are sucking air. It is a quick "Eyeball check to see if you have enough coolant" It helps when the coolant is colored as it is easier to see the level.
The 1996 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme temperature sending unit can be found on the front of the engine. The temperature sending unit will be a few inches above the thermostat housing.
Right side of engine.look for a square opening at bell housing,it is about 4 inches long,you will see line markings for the fly wheel at bottom .There is line on fly wheel,turn engine over until you see the line come up,(do this by turning ignition key switch couple of times.)Once you see the line come around on fly wheel line it up with degree lines on bell housing. Before setting timing you need to disconnect the coolant temperature line,this is on right side of thermostat housing,engine speed will drop down alittle.Set the timing lines at 12 degrees,that's it. Reconnect the coolant temperature line. Your engine timing is set.
If you follow the lower radiator hose, it connects to a pipe on the engine block. Follow that pipe and it goes towards the rear of the motor (about 8 inches) and turns left into the block. There are bolts there that need to be removed that hold the housing in. The thermostat is there. Hard to get to....good luck.
Looking at your motor compartment (the hood up naturally), the large black hose (about 2 inches in diameter) will come from the left side of the radiator and go to the top center of the motor. The thermostat housing is at the end of the black hose usually with a clamp on the end. You will need a bucket, screw driver, 7/16 or 1/2 inch socket and handle and possibly a pair of plier's Parts will be a new thermostat and gasket. Looking at the motor from in front of the car (drivers side) look down the side of the radiator to the bottom of it. You will see a petcock, try to twist the petcock 1/4 to 1/2 turn, clockwise. If it will not turn you may have to use the plier's BUT be careful that you do not brake the ears off the petcock. Drain about 1 gallon out. Loosen the bolts at the top of the thermostat housing and remove the housing (keep the hose attached to the housing) Remove the old thermostat ( if it is stuck in place use the screw driver to pry it up, gently) Clean the housing and the housing seat and remove any residue of the old gasket. Its important that you get all the residue off. The thermostat will drop into a recession on the thermostat seat. (the little peak of the thermostat will be up) put the gasket on top and then follow with the housing. (Don't use any sealant) Bolt in by first tightening one bolt then the other. Tighten to about as tight as when you loosened them. Close petcock, fill with radiator water and return cap. Start motor and let car come to operating temp. Look at housing and look for leaks. If there are leaks the primary cause is not cleaning the seat well enough. TATA for now G.