The gas cap is loose and needs to be replaced.
i connect all the wires the way i took them off the old selenoid and the starter selenoid and wires keep gettin hot and has burnt out the selenoid,replaced starter had the truck running fine shut it off and went to start it and the selenoid melted
First you check to see if the selenoid is working by turning the ignition key and listen for a click on the selenoid if you hear a click the selenoid is probably working. Then you take a test light and put it on one side of the large wire which should have power if you turn the key on. If you have no power on either side your trouble is before the selenoid. If you have power on one side but not the other when you hear the click of the selenoid, when you turn the key on, your selenoid is not working.
Check the EGR selenoid valve. The vacuum will pass throught the defective selenoid valve and go the EGR valve even if it has not been activated. The ECM will not detect a defective selenoid valve - only an EGR problem.DPFE sensorIf it's a Ford product, you may need a DPFE sensor. You should also check for a restriction in the EGR passageway.
On top of the starter.(usually)
More detail would help a lot. Multiple fast clicks when you turn the key is the selenoid closing and opening quickly. This is often caused by low starting power (low battery or bad cables) or a failing selenoid. Low battery is the most common problem because when the starter tried to draw current to turn the motor, the selenoid loses power. The selenoid opens and the starter stops taking power so the selenoid closes again until the starter draws power (and repeat). A single click every time you turn the key is normal. That is the sound of the selenoid under the hood sending power to the starter. The starter should start turning immediately. If you get a single click and no starter then I would examine the wiring to the starter and the starter itself. In First Gen Explorers (91-94) the selenoid is round (like a very short pop can) and has three electrical connections. Two are battery-cable-sized wires and one is smaller and usually enclosed in a rubber boot at the very bottom. The large cables carry power from the battery to the starter and the small wire is from the ignition switch (key switch). The selenoid is mounted on the side of the engine compartment, close to the battery.
I had the same problem. First is it recommended to comand the air pump on that is located underneath the driver seat bolted to the frame. If that turns on then the motor is good. Then it said to check the 2 hoses connected to the pump and that run to the selenoid to the top left of the motor to see if the hoses are clogged. Then I removed the selenoid located on the left of the motor, and fed power and ground from a external power source on the two pins of the selenoid. It didnt open and then replaced the seleniod, ran through a drive cycle and it was fixed correctly
A selenoid is activated from the rotary switch on the dash. This selenoid engages the AWD system causing the slight clunk
you cannot adjust the iddle on a 84 fiero. the iddle control is made by the computer. there is a air control selenoid on the left of the throttle body. the selenoid controle the iddle air flow. to make sure the selenoid is working properly, you can remove the air boll and filter so you can see the point if the selenoid. when the engine is passing from high revolution to iddle, the selenoid will move. if it moves it is probably in good working condition. if the iddle of the engine is too high, you might have a vacumm leek somewhere. check all the vacumm hoses for proper working condition.
The transmission selenoid/vaccuum module needs checked or perhaps the torque converter is getting bad. A vaccuum leak might do this, also.
connected to the starter
Sounds like starter selenoid or the starter cable going to the stsrter needs to be taken off and cleaned and the inner nut on the selenoid may not be torqued properly.
1. bad starter selenoid 2. blown fuse in the circuit 3. bad ground at the starter (not likely, but possible) Start at the starter, with a test light, and work your way back through the curcuit until you find power. That's where the problem will be. If the starter has no power move to the selenoid. If the selenoid had no power in the switch circuit move to the fuse. If the selenoid has no power on the battery side move to the fusable link. Keep working your way to the ignition switch.