This sounds like a slipping clutch. With the car in gear, fully depress the clutch pedal and give the car a little gas. If it tries to pull forward, then the clutch is not engaging properly. If this is the case, look into clutch and pressure plate repairs.
When you depress the clutch pedal all the way down the clutch brake stops the input shaft from rotating. This allows the transmission to be put in gear. Never depress the clutch fully ( all the way to the floor) when the truck is moving in any gear. The clutch brake is about the size of a compact disc and cannot stop the input shaft when the truck is moving in gear. This will destroy the clutch brake.
Vehicle is equipped with a clutch safety switch
The normal process for putting a manual car in neutral is to first completely depress the clutch. After the clutch is fully depressed then it is safe to shift the gear stick into neutral.
When you fully depress a brake pedal of a vehicle with ABS you will fell a Pulse A pinch a pain a pull
Cluth bite is about 1/3 up from the floor of the full travel of the pedal and is the same in every gear. To find the bite point, with hand/emergency brake on, depress the pedal fully, put the vehicle in gear and set the gas to about 1000 - 1100 rpm. Raise the clutch pedal until the bonnet/hood (forward gear) starts to rise and the revs start to dip. That is the bite point. Alternatively, go to FLAT area and RELEASE all brakes (hand/e-brake and foot brake) and make sure your car does not roll. Depress the clutch petal all the way and put it into first gear. SLOWLY start to raise the clutch off the floor (do this very very slowly). and once it starts to roll, that is your biting point. You should do it a couple times just to make sure.
Clutch drag is when the clutch pedal is fully depressed and the clutch is still partially engaged. When the clutch pedal is released or in the up position the engine is connected to the transmission input shaft. When the pedal is depressed or in the down position the engine is disconnected completely from the transmission. When the clutch drags it is still partially attached to the engine. A dragging clutch can cause a glazed flywheel and premature failure of the clutch. It will also cause the syncros to work twice as hard to slow down or speed up a gear inside the transmission when shifting. Basically syncros will wear out faster than normal and may not work properly depending on how bad the clutch drag is.
Depress the accelerator pedal more fully.
Turn on the ignition switch and then turn it fully clockwise until the engine starts.
The throttle cable could possibly be problem (not opening the butterfly valve fully).With the engine switched off, let someone fully depress the accelerator pedal while you look into the carburettor to see if the valve is fully open.
You may need to adjust your clutch or replace your clutch.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Do notstart the engine.2. Fully depress the accelerator pedal, slowly, three timeswithin 10 seconds.3. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF/LOCK position.1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Do notstart the engine.2. Fully depress the accelerator pedal, slowly, three timeswithin 10 seconds.3. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF/LOCK position.
If you are driving it correctly, not slipping the clutch or riding it, the clutch will last for 100,000 miles or more. Slipping means you are not allowing the clutch to fully engage smoothly. In other words revving the engine and trying to ease the clutch on. Practice will cure this. Riding it means keeping your foot on the clutch pedall all the time so that it slips even at speed.
NEUTRAL is the state in which the motorcycle's gear is NOT engaged. You can't LOSE NEUTRAL, but you can get frustrated trying to put the motorbike in NEUTRAL under the following conditions: 1. Your clutch cable is NOT PULLING THE CLUTCH PLATE FULLY. Remove the slack from your clutch cable by twisting the knurled knobs where the cable enters the metal guide JUST BEFORE THE CLUTCH LEVER HOUSING. As an alternate, you can also lessen the slack on the clutch cable in the tension adjustment joint, which should be located a bit less than a foot from where the other end of the cable enters the clutch housing and the engine. 2. If No.1 above fails, have your clutch "basket" checked. This entails overhauling the clutch side of the engine. Replace the clutch plates and/or the clutch springs if you find that they are worn or too soft. 3. Check that you are using the correct engine oil. If you are using fully synthetic engine oil on a motocross bike that does NOT require it, then go back to using the correct oil. Synthetic oils may be too "slippery" for your clutch.
Your clutch needs adjusting. The pressure plate is not fully releasing the clutch.
-turn key (without start) to acc position; -depress gas pedal slowly but fully 3 times or -reset trip odometer
The pressure plate is not fully releasing (clutch pack is bad)
on the vr6 engine the factory thermostat is 180 but the engine should not get over 210 at 180 the thermostat starts to open and is fully open at 195
sometimes the spring on the clutch plate breaks off and will not engage fully to the flywheel or the pilot bearing is sticking not moving freely I had this happen to me on a suzuki sidekick 1989 could not put into gear while engine running but could when the engine was off ,testing by putting it in first gear and starting engine while putting my foot on the clutch pedal ,,will work but if you can no change to seconde gear then you have a broken spring in the clutch area,, hope this helps
To reset the engine oil life monitor: The procedure must be completed within 10 seconds after switching on ignition. 1. Switch on the ignition, but do not start the engine, 2. depress accelerator pedal fully and hold in this position, 3. depress foot brake three times consecutively, 4. release accelerator pedal, 5. turn off ignition.
your clutch may not be fully engaging
a well maintained system will provide breaking and stop the vehicle.