Similar thing happened on my 94 Aspire. The bracket is made of several pieces of sheet steel, put together with spot welds. Every time you push the clutch the steel flexes. After so many times of pushing the clutch, the spot weld snaps from metal fatigue. I'm betting the replacement bracket you got was from a junk yard, so it too had been flexed alot. If this happened with your bracket, take the two pieces and line them up in their original position. Use vise grips to clamp them together and drill a hole for a bolt. A 1/4" bolt should be enough. Make sure it's short enough that it doesn't interfere with the travel of the the clutch or brake pedal. It's just about impossible to line up the bracket pieces and drill them when they're in place on the car. There's just not enough room to get a drill in and around everything under the dash. A flexible spring-type extension for a drill might work if you're lucky to have one. If you're a pack-rat, you saved the first bracket. You can fix that off the car and swap it out with the broken one. Either way you'll probably have to take out the one that's in the car now. You may want to think about disconnecting the negative battery terminal while fooling around under the dash. If you you slip with the drill and catch the wrong wire you could get unlucky enough to set off the airbag.
On mine I h.ad the same prob. Got hot enough to weld the clutch rod to the bearings
It sounds like you have a worn out clutch disc or the pressure plate is not applying enough pressure to the disc. Either way, it does sound like you are ready for a new clutch.
Look on the end of the clutch cable, if you can't find it have someone push the clutch, theres a nut, 12 mm I think but mine turned by hand easy enough, unscrew to make the clutch engage closer to the floor. The exact spec has you measure the free play at the top of the pedal, I don't that info handy, you can do it by feel, trial and error.
bad clutch cable, or not enough oil on the clutch plates.
its probable that the clutch is going and the reason why it works after you start the car back up is your giving the clutch a chance to cool "if even for a second" and the fingers on the pressure plate extend back out enough to do you some good....look into having it replaced.
Possibly the clutch was installed facing the wrong way, or the clutch has not had enough time to properly seat.
Yes, as long as the hard drive is big enough. Several Aspire One models come with Windows XP, in fact.
Your releasing to fast/not giving enough gas upon release of clutch
first take the fan clutch off by loosening the four nuts on the fan. Remove the fan pulley. You should be able to loosen the power steering pump bracket enough to get the right hand side of the pump out. Once the p.s. bracket is wiggled out of the way, it's four bolts and off she comes.
I had it happen to me; had to replace the slave cylinder due to a leak, and the master cylinder is also leaking slightly, so it may need to be replaced shortly. Make sure the clutch line has enough brake fluid in it (you can check levels and fill it under the hood near the driver. Hope this helps. I had it happen to me; had to replace the slave cylinder due to a leak, and the master cylinder is also leaking slightly, so it may need to be replaced shortly. Make sure the clutch line has enough brake fluid in it (you can check levels and fill it under the hood near the driver. Hope this helps.
The clutch master cylindar should be right beside the brake master cylindar. I have run across a couple of cars that have the brakes on the passenger side but never the clutch. I assume this holds true for your car. As far as adjusting a hydraulic clutch, they don't. If the clutch is not pushing in enough, it is usually the slave cylindar which is located on the bell housing of the transmission. They get worn and need to be replaced.
no not at all not enough room.if it's standered and you need to replace the clutch you have just enough room to remove and install the clutch remember cut the clutch tool in half