If the starter clicks, but doesn't start the car, that indicates that the starter solenoid is working, but the commutator that actually spins the engine is not. Take the starter back and have it tested. The battery could also be At Fault. If the battery doesn't supply enough power you'll get the same result.
check the battery voltage first should be 12.6 volts if not jump the battery see if it starts.if it does bad battery.
Its a ford that's what its spose to do not run it keeps every one safeseriously sounds like a dead battery or a starter problemAnswerIt does sound like a dead or low battery, or possibly a problem with your solenoid. Good luck.
OK, so you're engine won't turn over right? It just clicks. This is a sign of low or no power getting to the starter. The usual cause is bad/dirty battery cables or connections. My first GUESS would be at the starter. I'd clean them all to be sure. Both at the battery and the starter. ********I have a '94 grand prix that just started doing something similar. Most likely a battery/power issue, what you need to do is have someone check and see (when the car is started) if the battery is getting charged by the alternator. (of course after you check battery terminals for corrosion because a bad connection could explain why it sometimes starts and sometimes doesn't) If the terminals are clean there probably is an issue with the battery not charging causing the clicking sound usually caused by low/no power from the battery, also try checking if the battery is bad... might be time for a new battery because it might not be holding a charge all together.******
Hey, every starter is located at the end of the hot cable from your battery. ( the cable marked red on the battery or with the + sign.
I would start by checking and cleaning the battery cables.Might be something as easy as that. Also I would try hooking up jumpper cables to the connections under the hood. this would elimanate the battery and all cables from under the rear seat. If it starts fine with jumpper cables trace it backward to fine bad cable. now the bad news,if none of this helps it is most likely a bad start solinoid witch is mounted on top of the starter. More bad news the starter is under the intake manifold.This is a a job to remove the manifold and injectors and wiring to get to the starter.Hopefully the lose or dirt battery cables fixes the problem. Good luck, hope this helps, Ben Parker, San Jose, Ca.
If it starts every time when jumper cables are attached, you're getting a poor connection from the battery to the engine. Check the battery cables, especially the negative side, at both the battery and the end attached to the engine and/or body. (Note that, if the starter were bad, it probably wouldn't start consistently with jumper cables attached.)AnswerStarter needs to be replaced. Probably stuck brushes or bad solenoid. Try hitting the side of the starter with a wrench the next time it acts up. If it starts it's stuck brushes in the starter.
It sounds like you have dirty/loose battery connections, a bad ground, loose ground wire on the engine block, loose hot wire at the starter, bad starter, or bad ignition switch. I have a 95 Chevy lumina and i have rebuilt the starter, replaced the solenoid, put shims between the starter and transmission, changed the battery cable. Jesse
Every car with an electric starter has a starter solenoid. That is how cars work. When you start the car, only a trickle of electricity goes through the wire. That trickle of electricity goes to the solenoid. That trickle of electricity tells a magnet, "Get busy." The magnet closes a switch. The switch completes a circuit between the battery and the starter. Then the starter engages and your engine starts. That switch is your solenoid. If you find your starter, you can trace the wire back to the switch. You will see where another wire from that point attaches to the battery. Now you know the location of your solenoid.
Dead or weak battery Loose or corroded battery cables Excessive starter drag
More detail would help a lot. Multiple fast clicks when you turn the key is the selenoid closing and opening quickly. This is often caused by low starting power (low battery or bad cables) or a failing selenoid. Low battery is the most common problem because when the starter tried to draw current to turn the motor, the selenoid loses power. The selenoid opens and the starter stops taking power so the selenoid closes again until the starter draws power (and repeat). A single click every time you turn the key is normal. That is the sound of the selenoid under the hood sending power to the starter. The starter should start turning immediately. If you get a single click and no starter then I would examine the wiring to the starter and the starter itself. In First Gen Explorers (91-94) the selenoid is round (like a very short pop can) and has three electrical connections. Two are battery-cable-sized wires and one is smaller and usually enclosed in a rubber boot at the very bottom. The large cables carry power from the battery to the starter and the small wire is from the ignition switch (key switch). The selenoid is mounted on the side of the engine compartment, close to the battery.
Loose or corroded battery connections or your starter is going bad.
Ignition switch going bad, corroded or loose battery cables, starter relay or starter going bad.
Starter motors vary in specific location on different models and makes of vehicles. There is, however, one constant. In every case, the starter connects thru a heavy cable either directly to the battery or to a starter solonoid in the engine compartment that is, itself, connected directly to the battery. Find the biggest (usually RED) B+ cable and follow it to the Starter. If it terminates on a starter solonoid, follow the cable on the other side of the solonoid to the starter.