You didn't bleed the lines correctly. Open the brake fluid rez and keep it topped off properly while you perform this. Loosen bleeder valve and have someone push on the brakes. Quickly tighten the bleeder valve after you get some fluid coming out of the valve. As long as the fluid comes out smoothly without spitting out of the valve that brake set is fine. Tighten the valve and go to the next one and try that. Repeat as needed to make sure the fluid doesn't have air on the lines or you'll have very soft braking power. Now all the brakes should be fine and have adequate fluid pressure. Now test the brakes very gently by backing up and going forward a few times in the driveway or parking lot. Use the e-brake and release it a couple of times. Back up and go forward and notice the brakes grabbing. Now you can check it out on the road. Go slow and don't slam the brakes or you'll glaze the pad's surfaces and ruin your new brake pads. After the first 50 to 100 miles you can get a bit harder (back to normal) with the breaking.
Hope this helps.
Not bled properly or not adjusted properly.
Did you bench bleed the master ? Are the calipers and wheel cylinders working properly ? Is there a break in the line somewhere ? Last , is the booster working properly ? What happens when you step on the brake now ? Are they soft and spongy ? Does the car stop at all ? More info is needed to answer this question properly.
Oil will soften up the brake material causing it to not function properly. The brakes may be grabby or may not stop at all.
( 1 ) on each of the rear drum brakes
brakes are over adjusted
The calipers or wheel cylinders are bad.
There is still no fluid pressure. Make sure that the master cylinder was bled as well as the wheel cylinders. New master cylinders can be tough to bleed all of the air out. The new master could be defective.
If you don't lube the caliper slide pins and pad slides, they'll bind. You'll get uneven pad wear
your rear brakes are binding, and yourwheel cylinders are leaking and maybe your emergency cable ,thats connected to your secondary brake shoe needs replacing.
brakes do not release
If the brakes are out then you have no business putting it in any gear because it is unsafe to drive a car with no brakes.
Try replacing your brake calipers.
You have a problem with the ABS system. Your brakes will still work properly but you will not have the extra safety of ABS. Have this checked out.
Replace wheel cylinders
there are bleeders on the wheel cylinders
Yes it is possible to replace brakes yourself. If you have the tools and a little background in cars, you should not have a problem replacing the brakes on the car.
There's no guarantee that they will. Disc brakes have a higher initial cost and are prone to heating more quickly than foundation drum brakes.
No you dont have to. All I did was was pump the brakes with the car running
had the same question, looked on bikebandit.com and according to them its 1986 that they started putting disc brakes on the front
The pads or shoes wear out and need replacing.
The same way you bleed brakes on a newer car, bleeder valves are in back of the wheel cylinders on the backing plate.
Less. If the pedal is going down, it is the master cylinder or one of the wheel cylinders leaking.
Bleed the rear brakes and add new brake fluid. Typically the brakes feeling as if they give too much or "squishy" is from small air bubbles in the brake line...so by bleeding and adding new fluid you let out the small bubbles which cause the squishiness. When you changed the brakes many people tend to hit the line as well as not clamp them properly and therefore render the brakes "squishy". Hope this helps. J