You can add as many light fixtures as you want to the existing switching setup, provided that doing so does not cause you to overload your circuit. To be safe, identify which fixtures and receptacles are on that circuit, and make sure the total connected wattage is no greater than 1440 watts (for a 15A breaker) or 1920 watts (for a 20A breaker). These values incorporate a safety factor by only allowing the circuit to carry 80 percent of the circuit breaker's value. If the total connected wattage is (or will be, by adding the new fixture) over that limit, you'll need to call an electrician to get another circuit and split up your load.
Yes. Connect the two lamps in parallel. White to white, black to black and bare wire to bare wire.
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As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Add a light to switch from a different circuitI think here your concern is that you don't want change the performance of the circuit to which you add the light.so you have to use a relay or a solid state relay to the circuit and a separate power supply to the light in compliance with all the safety rules.
ask them how
If you have good access to the wiring this is relatively easy to do. Each of the 10 lights is connected to another in parallel in a "daisy chain" fashion. Light 1 is connected to the switch, light 2 is connected to light 1, light 3 is connected to light 2 and so forth. Let's say it is light 5 that you wish to switch separately. You can first install the new switch by either adding a new box or modifying old switch box. There are two gang switches that will fit the form factor of a single switch. TURN OFF THE POWER TO SWITCH BOX. Using the same supply input at original switch, add a new black wire to the wire nut for input to original switch and connect this to the input of new switch. Then run a new wire to light 5 and connect black wire to the output of new switch. Connect all the white wires together in switch box and separately connect all bare wires together in switch box. Now at light 5 undo the black and white wire coming from the fixture, and reconnect the wire nuts so that there is a direct connection between light 4 and light 6. Do the same for the ground if present (bare wire). You now have the fixture wires hanging free. Now connect the black wire from new switch to the fixture black wire and white to white and you are done.
Re open the switch junction box after turning the power back off. If you can locate the wire that bring the voltage to the box make sure that this wire goes to the top of the switch. If it is tied into more black wires this could be receptacle circuits that are on all of the time. If this is the case, from this group add a pigtail from this group to the top of the switch. from the bottom of the switch find the wire that is going to the light. It is probably in the group that is tied together. Once found terminate this wire to the bottom of the switch. Put the breaker back on and try the switch.
Switch
Add a light to switch from a different circuitI think here your concern is that you don't want change the performance of the circuit to which you add the light.so you have to use a relay or a solid state relay to the circuit and a separate power supply to the light in compliance with all the safety rules.
Piggyback off the box for the existing light. Run a wire from the existing junction box to a new junction box (which is placed wherever you want the new fixture). Then, in the existing box, connect the wire coming from the switch, the wire for the existing fixture, and the wire for the new fixture together using wire nuts. Wire up the new fixture, and presto, you have two fixtures on a switch where there was only one before.
Tie into the line side (always hot) of the first switch. Run 12-3 to the second switch and then tie the load side of the second switch to your second light. Assure you have all the proper hardware and supports. Turn off all power prior to working on it cause electricity is dangerous. If you are close to your panel its always safest to run a new circuit since you have a limit on how many things can be on one circuit based on your wire size.
If you have unswitched supply from a light you need to route the supply through the new switch to the new light. You want to switch the black wire and just connect the white wires together with a wirenut and connect the bare ground wires together by a separate wirenut.
All you have to do is add a "Y" pipe or Call a plumber
Two options. Change the fixture to a keyed pull-chain, or add a pull-chain adapter to the existing fixture. Both available from Home Depot and others for about $3.
Some brand fans have a remote control kit that installs in the fan housing. Also if you have access you can run a separate switched voltage to the fan. In this case you would have to put a second switch in the same box that controls fan, unless it is a switch with speed control that came with fan. In this case you would have to install a new box (Old Work Switch Box from Home Depot or Lowes for example) and run voltage to the box, install a switch and run wire to fan and connect to light. One other possibility is to check the ceiling box and see if there is a spare red wire. If so you could use this to switch power to the light separately from the fan. Again it depends on the switch configuration and supply voltage feed.
It is not excessively difficult to add a second sink. Make sure that there is enough room for the second sink. If you install the second sink next to the existing one, installing T-fittings to existing plumbing is a good idea. anonymous@oola.com
If you are asking how to add a switch to a lamp (or other load device) cord, simply cut the line side of the cord and connect to the switch terminals. ----mikey
The switch you are referring to is called a three way switch operating one or a string of devices from two separate locations. You have to either parallel it at the existing light or find out which end the switch leg and associated neutral is on. Sometimes the electrician will feed the fixture with the neutral and use travellers between switches with 3 wire circuits so you first need to know how it has been wired. It is legal to feed the switches and lamps from any of the locations. Unless you are tapping into the light fixture itself, I would have a professional look at it.
I bought what is called an "Add A Circuit" fuse link. This thing has two slots for 10 amp fuses and plugs into the "Door Sw Defeat" fuse slot. It also has a wire coming off it to add another line to it. What I did was pull the 10 amp fuse out, plugged in the Add A Circuit and plugged the fuse into the second opening of the new dual fuse holder. Then I installed a toggle switch under the dash near accessible only when the glove box is open. From the toggle switch, I connected a ground wire to it, grounded that to an existing metal screw, and the other wire connected to the wire coming from the dual fuse holder. Flipped the switch and the light turns off. The total cost was, $1.19 for the toggle switch and about 5 bucks for the Add A Circuit connector. Piece of cake! Good luck! I bought what is called an "Add A Circuit" fuse link. This thing has two slots for 10 amp fuses and plugs into the "Door Sw Defeat" fuse slot. It also has a wire coming off it to add another line to it. What I did was pull the 10 amp fuse out, plugged in the Add A Circuit and plugged the fuse into the second opening of the new dual fuse holder. Then I installed a toggle switch under the dash accessible only when the glove box is open. From the toggle switch, I connected a ground wire to it, grounded that to an existing metal screw, and the other wire connected to the wire coming from the dual fuse holder. Flipped the switch and the light turns off. The total cost was, $1.19 for the toggle switch and about 5 bucks for the Add A Circuit connector. Piece of cake! Good luck!
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