If your pool filter is up and running, also it is best to clean the walls and floor if you have a normal to high chlorine level because this will be also your cleaning agent. Take a soft bristle brush, get in the pool and start cleaning, all the above should come off. it is better if the filter is running so you can vac out the dirt, when the dirt goes to the bottom of the pool.
By far the easiest way without a professional cleaner is a product called Pool Cage Plus. (www.poolcageplus.com) Shoots 25 feet to get the top of the pool cage. And you don't have to do crazy things like your pool brush and scrub it.
Mud stains cloths; mud stains clothes and anything that isn't smooth microscopically like microfibre.
I had the same problem. Pool experts couldn't help and recommended an acid wash. Quote for acid wash was $450.00 without a guarantee stains would be removed! I searched the web and stumbled on this site, and my pool is now sparkling clean, no stains! There is a simple "sock test" you can take to see if this will work for you and then basically for copper and iron stains you need to almost completely lower your PH and chlorine and then brush stains away. Its as easy as that! For details and step by step procedure go to the following website. You can even email the guy questions and he gets right back to you. http://askalanaquestion.com/pool_stain_problems.htm
Chemical stains provide contrast with which to view dintinctly different portions of cell structures.
Since heat fixation is not required and cells are not subjected to the distorting effects of chemicals and heat, their natural size and shape can be seen. Also, it makes it possible to view hard to stain bacteria such as spirilli.
Green stains (copper color) that cannot be removed indicate you might have a pH problem. K
This must be an algaecide of some sort possible a low grade of chlorine. Did you follow the instructions EXACTLY? Is this product supposed to settle on algae spots? If not , did you brush it to keep it from clumping and settling on the bottom of the pool? The black stains, possible caused by the product burning the plaster where it settled --- improper use of product. Impossible to know without seeing the stains and finding out just how you used the product. Contact Bioguard for further info.
Avoid Cavities and Tooth Decay Prevent Bad Breadth Avoid Periodontal Disease Remove Stains
My experience is that the stains will go away by themselves, through the effects of the chlorination of the water. Does not matter if the pool is a salt pool or fresh water pool. If the pool has a plaster finish, brushing the stains with a wire pool brush will speed up the process.
By far the easiest way without a professional cleaner is a product called Pool Cage Plus. (www.poolcageplus.com) Shoots 25 feet to get the top of the pool cage. And you don't have to do crazy things like your pool brush and scrub it.
Usually this is the result of converting copper sulfate stains (turquoise) to cupric oxide (grey-black) by oxidation from the shock (calcium hypochlorite) sitting directly on the copper stains. Avoid this by shocking with liquid chlorine or pre-dissolving the granular shock so it doesn't sit right on the plaster. Often the grey-black stains can be reconstituted to turquoise sulfate by letting alum (aluminum sulfate) sit on the same spot. This has to be done relatively soon, though, before calcification covers the stains with a layer of carbonate that the alum can't soak through...
Scientist use the stains because the microscopic organisms are very difficult to see without them.
use bleach
First You have to determine what caused the stains and try to prevent duplicating the situation once the cleaning process has been completed.There are two directions you can take toward getting the plaster to a near new state. You will most likely never achieve the same look that the original plaster had when it was installed. Some stains will remain with the most diligent of processes. Both methods include muriatic acid. The methods differ in the way in which they are applied.Neither one of these methods should be attempted by a novice - - no previous experience.One direction you could pursue would be the older and time tested method of acid washing a plaster pool would involve draining the pool then with the proper safety precautions, equipment and tools, start the process of the actual acid wash with a diluted solution of muriatic acid and water. This method may take from a few hours to two days to totally complete.The alternative method involves a totally different and unique method called a "No Dran" ( no drain acid wash). This method works by first disabling the pump - insuring that the pump will not start during the whole procedure. There are a certain amount of other steps to be taken to do the "No Dran" properly. Depending upon size of the pool or amount of water - muriatic acid is added to the pool water in proper quantities so as to bring the total alkalinity to zero. Background experience is a major step in knowing how to start, how to aid the process during the procedure and ultimately knowing when to stop the process. This method will take from about four days to two weeks to complete depending on how severe the plaster conditions. This method could also include draining the pool after the "No Dran" is finished. This is to ensure that all or most of the minerals that caused the stains are removed - because they would now be in suspension in the water - and will not be re-deposited on the plaster a month or two down the road. This method has proved successful in pools with colored plaster.With each method, after completion, there is the start up procedure to be completed.k
I have rust stains in my kitchen sink. What tools or products are available for cleaning rust from sinks without scratching them?
I need help with cleaning sinks that are porcelain. I have a porcelain kitchen sink that is stained. How can I remove the stains without scratching the porcelain?
I use baby wipes. But that's just me.