Can you fix the ford speed control deactivation switch recall yourself?

Answer 1

you could fix the problem yourself but why do that when you can take it to a dealer and have it fixed correctly for free? plus when you want to sell your van it will not show up as the van having a recall cause the dealership will add your VIN to the database as fixed.

Yes you can - and by all reports it is an easy fix with the part being around $25-30.

Basically unscrew the brake pressure switch from the bottom of the master cylinder and screw the new one on. There is also a modified wiring harness that many report is included with the new switch.

See "Related Questions" below for more, including a link to a terrific photo how-to tutorial on the switch replacement.

Sidebar: I haven't heard yet if Ford is offering reimbursement for those who have already had the repair done prior to the recall. I haven't received the official recall letter from Ford, although my selling dealer did send me an email notice - which didn't include lots of the details and focused more on scheduling the repair.

I may be able to offer a little more insight as to the harness end. I was a manf. eng. for Federal Mogul back in 2009 and I was responsible for designing the manufacturing process for the Ford Speed Control Jumper Harness. I was not even aware of new switch as being part of the recall. The jumper harness does not in any way fix the problem, it prevents the occurrence's of fire due to occurrence's of the problem. The problem being the leaking of the brake fluid at the brake pressure switch.

When fluid would leak in or around the switch it would reach the actual strands of the constant hot wire. Once that path was established the fluid could somewhat freely wick its was up the circuit. Escentially filling the air voids inside the wire insulation with flamible wire.

The jumper harness prevents this wicking action from resulting in a fire by adding a fuse to each of the two circuits. On each circuit there is a splice in the circuit between the fuse and the reservoir. This splice is first ultrasonicly welded, then dipped in flux, followed by a dip into a solder pot stream and finally sealed with epoxy sealant heatshrink tube. This basically creates a solid sealed mass in the circuit and thus wicking would, in theory, not be possible beyond it. To add to the protection, if you get one you'll see the harness is about 6" long. If you undid the wire loom you would discover that it uncoils to a length around 36". That much further wicking would have to occur to make it beyond the protection of the fuse.