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You switch the hot side instead of neutral, because there is a shock hazard otherwise. If a fault caused hot to connect to a metal part on the device, you would get shocked touching the metal part. Sometimes a double pole switch will switch both hot and neutral in special applications. It is never a good idea just to switch neutral.
It sounds like your switch is a three way switch. The wire that is on the different colour screw of the three screws will either be the "hot" wire or the wire to the load. The neutral might or might not be in the box that the switch is in depending on which end of the three way system you are at. See discuss question button below.No wires connected to a switch are neutral. A switch breaks the circuit of the hot wire. Black AND red are hot wires. White is used for neutral and is almost never connected to a switch.
we dont need a neutral because we had a 2 hot leads
there should be 5 wires, hot and switched hot for the switch and hot, neutral and ground for the gfci receptacle.
You never switch a neutral wire, only hots. hooking both hot and neutral to the same switch will result in a short when the swith is turned on.
Hot, neutral and ground.
You switch the hot side instead of neutral, because there is a shock hazard otherwise. If a fault caused hot to connect to a metal part on the device, you would get shocked touching the metal part. Sometimes a double pole switch will switch both hot and neutral in special applications. It is never a good idea just to switch neutral.
All troubleshooting involves eliminating possible causes of the problem. You need to find the source of power for the switch and trace from the source to the switch or vice versa. The difficulty of the tracing process depends a lot on your situation. One way to do it is to use a signal tracer. It can be brought for about $20 and comes in two parts. A signal generator and a receiver. You disconnect the hot and neutral wires from the panel breaker and neutral bus and connect the signal source between the disconnected hot and neutral in panel. Then confirm that you have the tone at the switch. Start backtracking to dead outlets with the receiver and remove each intermediate outlet or connection and find out where neutral and hot are screwed up.
You need two hot legs of 110 volts to make 220. While each led is 110 volts to neutral, between the two hot legs you have 220v. You should have two different hot legs of 110, a neutral and a ground to meet code now a days.
If the hot is connected to the supply and it is turned on and the switch is turned on and the neutral not connected this could be quite true. Connect the neutral to the supply neutral and shut the switch off. Now the only reading that you should get is the hot supply.
It sounds like your switch is a three way switch. The wire that is on the different colour screw of the three screws will either be the "hot" wire or the wire to the load. The neutral might or might not be in the box that the switch is in depending on which end of the three way system you are at. See discuss question button below.No wires connected to a switch are neutral. A switch breaks the circuit of the hot wire. Black AND red are hot wires. White is used for neutral and is almost never connected to a switch.
we dont need a neutral because we had a 2 hot leads
Red is hot Green is ground White is neutral
there should be 5 wires, hot and switched hot for the switch and hot, neutral and ground for the gfci receptacle.
You never switch a neutral wire, only hots. hooking both hot and neutral to the same switch will result in a short when the swith is turned on.
White is the neutral wire. Black is hot, green is ground.
Yes two "hot" wires and a neutral can enter into a switch box. This is done on occasions where a three wire enters a switch box, drops off one circuit for the lighting and the other "hot" wire carries on to feed a receptacle circuit.