Could be a long list of things; Noisy when clutch pressed Pulsating pedal with engine running Difficult to ingage gears Slipping clutch or harsh vibrations The thrust bearing, and fork, should be replaced when the clutch is replaced. Bearing Slide and Fly wheel should be inspected and replaced if need be.
which one, the carrier bearing or the gearbox bearing?
If its slipping only in 4th gear, it could be that your releaser bearing is gone with the p/plate. Or your gearbox has had its days and would need to be replaced/ repaired.
the front end load bearing or other bearing in the gearbox will be stuffed. when you engage the clutch the gearbox doesnt have any drive thru it so stops turning and then you noise stops.
Take it to get the gearbox replaced.
No big job mate. Gearbox to be removed. The last car to change a clutch without moving the gearbox was a Vauxhall Cavalier 1998/99.
It is possible, but it is hard to find the proper driveshaft and yoke combinations
To replace a throw out bearing in any car or truck you must remove the gearbox, then remove the clutch, then pull the bearing out of the flywheel and replace it. Assemble in reverse order.
If the gearbox is causing freeplay in the steering wheel, then the gearbox needs to be replaced.
It will be due to the input shaft bearing in gearbox.
wheel bearing, gearbox or wind noise Supercharger?
this sound come from the bearing of the clutch and it need to be replaced as soon as possible as happen in my C2
Common problem have Solenoid replaced Usually the pressure regulator valve.
To remove gearbox Renault megane 1.6, one needs to first and foremost remove the gearframe from the system. Then reboot the engine and make sure that the gearframe is replaced.
No, main bearing noise is a rumble Throw out/release bearing for the clutch will only be heard when the clutch pedal is depressed. If you hear the noise without the clutch pedal being depressed, it is most likely the gearbox first motion shaft bearing that is at fault. First motion shaft bearing noise usually goes away when the clutch pedal is pressed.
In general terms follow these steps; 1) remove drive shaft/s between gearbox and final drive assy 2) Remove gearbox and bellhousing from engine. 3) Remove pressure plate from flywheel, friction plate will also come free. 4) Replace pressure plate, friction plate, spigot brg, throw out bearing. 5) Align friction plate with spigot bearing with dummy input shaft. 6) Replace gearbox and drive shaft/s
There are seals to be replaced but you have to know what you are doing. Normally there is a repair kit available. You should go to the parts shop and ask for the repair kit.
remove either engine or gearbox from the car , in the gearbox undo the 3 torx bolts that hold the bearing in place ,spin it round ,undo the little clip holding the pipe together and then remove bearing ,this is the slave cylinder. refit is reverse of removal ,note the rubber seal that fits on the end of the little pigtail pipe if not on then the whole thing has to be repeated so check before refit .
Jack up vehicle and place 4 stands front and back so you can easily roll in and out of under the car. Disconnect battery. 1. Remove tailshaft (4 bolts) at the rear uni joint. 2.Remove speedo cable and disconnect reverse light wires and earth straps attached to gearbox. Disconnect clutch cable and gear selectors, 3.remove bolts that hold the starter motor and push starter motor back 4. Remove remaining bolts around the bell housing 5. Place jack on wheels under the gearbox pan and jack up (At this point you may want to drain the gearbox oil prior to using the jack to make the gearbox lighter) 6 remove gearbox rear mount bolt and nut 7.Gently pull the jack backwards and remove the gearbox and bell housing 8. Remove clutch assembly from flywheel by unbolting the securing screws. 9.remove flywheel and get it machined. Replace the spigot bearing.(6002V bearing). 10. refit flywheel with a bit of loctite 243 on the nuts and tighten to approx 65ft/lb. 11. Fit new clutch plate and flywheel and use a clutch aligning tool while doing this. It is so the shaft lines up with the cluth plate. 12. Remove old clutch thrust bearing and clips from bell housing and clean up the shaft and bell housing. Fit new thrust bearing with a light smear of grease on the shaft where the bearing slides and grease the shaft spline lightly. Carefully put the clips in either side of the thrust bearing and attach to the pivot. Check the bearing pivots smoothly by moving the clutch lever back and forth. 13. Align gearbox on the jack and insert into the clutch assy. 14. if gearbox is not going in far enough for bolting up, have someone put a wrench on the engine bottom pulley(harmonic balancer) and gently rock back and forth while you manouver the gearbox shaft in. 15. When shaft and gearbox has gone in as far as possible start bolting up and this will pull the gearbox in the remaining 5-10mm. Bolt up slowly and sequentially so the gearbox is being pulled in evenly. 16. Refit starter motor and tailshaft. Check everything is reconnected and bolted up. Gearbox oil top up. 17 adjust clutch cable if needed. As far as clutches go this is a straightforward job that needs approx 4hrs to reassemble once you have all the parts and flywheel machined. You only need basic tools 13mm ,14mm, 17mm, 12mm sockets and socket extensions , 15/16" socket for gearbox pan. Ring spanners for tailshaft, Pliers.
There are a few reasons for this. First the bearing in the gear box may be dry and need grease and the other issue may be the linkage is broken.
it will fit fine, though you might need to swap the clutch release bearing and the cover plate.
yes, i have a zf tranny and i put mobil 1 in it, what kind of car do u have?
i hate the word gearbox