I believe that it is somewhere around 16city 27highway for the manual transmission.
Transmissions are all the same, only the drive shaft is different lengths for 2+2 and coupe(shorter) both 5 speed and automatics fit either 2+2 or coupe.
The Zman, since 1983 -1989 have owned all years except for 1988
firing order. 1-5-3-6-2-4...same as a Chevy straight 6, same as every straight 6.
counter clockwise and by putting a bubbagushts in your engine
4cyl- 1 3 4 2 -- V6- 1 2 3 4 5 6(really!)
Could very well be the spark plugs or possibly fuel injectors. I had the same problem and it was the spark plugs. check for dead spots in your tps. also check that the resistance in your airflow meter is consistant.
Hi, according to Nissan, the first time they used the By Nissan subscript was on the first 280zx sold in the U.S.
From what I understand that Nissan has always been Nissan in Japan but when the Datsuns came over here they were badged Datsun possibly because the name would market better over here.
Nissan markets well over there in racing. NI sounds like two and SAN sounds like three in Japanese. 23 is written on some of those cars. ;) get it?
The first year I remember seeing a Nissan badged car was in 1984. It was the first year for the "Z31" or Nissan 300zx. I owned an 83 Datsun 280zx and an 84 Nissan 300zx. :) So, that is where I base this on.
I would bet that you can find out more of the history of the company at nissanusa.com or shoot them an email. Nissan corp. has always been very helpful!
Anna N. DesignQuest Auto Enhancing Tri-State Z Car ClubAnswerHi folks.
To refine your search a bit more I will tell you that back in the early 90s I bought and drove a Datsun 810 witha 3.8 litre in line six cylinder diesel. A rare find indeed! On the cover of the owners manual it was listed as a Datsun Nissan Model 810 and as I recall it was also an early version of the Maxima. The car was a 1976 model so its been almost 30 years.
Thanks a lot see yaAnswerWell folks I have a datsun labled truck 1982 that has a 2.2 Z motor made by Nissan.The other label on the side says datsun made by Nissan. I believe that was the last year of the transformation.It says datsun on the grill and on the tail gate. I still have it and as far as I know its hard to find parts for too.I have been restoring for the past 5 years. She runs like new with the original motor rebuilt 4000 miles ago and with these gas prices 35 miles to the gallon feels good to me with my little truck. Any one else with the 1982 720 model out there? I havent seen any in North Carolina except mine.Rare I guess! That exsplains it folks 1982 was the year so hang on to those last year transformations they could very well be worth a lot of $$$$$$$$$ some day! If not already. Ive been offered 10,000 for mine already cant see it, Maybe 20,000. Good luck everybody atleast I can change my plugs easy! Answeri have the same truck, however, my numbers don't match. I live in Arizona and have seen at least ten.I am getting ready to restore it. mine has the hood vents (one on each side). mine is a 4x4, No a/c. i really like the truck. mine was built in Japan. that is the first year they changed their name on their trucks. AnswerI have a 1975 260z the badging says datsun, but the valve cover on the original 260 block says Nissan, also on my buddies 1972 datsun 240z the script on his block says Nissan, but i think it wasi n the 80s that they started using Nissan script on the cars themselves, only the badgeing stated its a datsun, and i remember seeing nissane on some 280zxs in the yard.
1985 Was the first year that Nissan no longer carried the name Datsun on vehicles exported to the US market (except for on some leftover parts like radiator caps or pages in manuals). 1985 Began the "The Name is Nissan" campaign. 1984 is the only year you can buy a Datsun 300ZX. After that, it was all officially Nissan.
Datsun was marketed only in US markets, I believe. It sounded less Japanese, and when Nissan vehicles first entered US markets, Americans were still reeling from WWII. I think the name came from Nissan's acquisition of Datson, meaning son of DAT, an offshoot of another company that began with three guys whose initials were D, A and T. Originally it was DAT motors, I believe. Cool story worth looking up on Wiki. Yes, the 280ZX first carried badging reading "by Nissan," in 1979. Dual badging lasted until 1984, the first year of the Z31 and S12 (and Pulsar? Perhaps.) Cheers!
its a show.....get over it(apparantly it has a 85 mm stroke vs a 84)
You will have to remove the valve cover and then the tensioner. After that take off the timing chain cover and then it'll come right out. It's about a 45 min job. I am at firstname.lastname@example.org if you have anymore questions. Tray
i do not know but you cna ask some other people m8
Unfortunately, there is no "fix" for a leaky brake line other than completely replacing it. Brake lines are under extreme pressure and NOTHING will stop the leak. Attempts at patching a brake line only endanger the occupants in the vehicle when it busts free (and it will)posing a crash hazard. If you have very thick soled shoes, and a very strong left leg, you might try opening the drivers door and dragging your foot. Otherwise, PLEASE have a qualified technician replace that brake line!
Could be an ignition coil breaking down at high revs. or the points gap could also be closing at high rev. due to points bouncing..set the dwell at the higher rating Andy
Check the fuel filter. May be partially clogged. If not, check spark plugs for corrosion.
I'm somewhat confused by your use of the term "starter button". I assume you're referring to hooking up a remote starter allowing you to spin the engine while you're working under the hood. First make sure that the vehicle is in either park or neutral. Second, make sure that the ignition switch is in the "off" position. Locate the starter solenoid which is atop the starter assembly. Disconnect the trigger wire at it's spade terminal. The wire will most likely be yellow in color. Connect one end of your remote starter button at this terminal on the starter and the other end to the positive battery post.
This is a common ignition problem. Use a DIY test button push start. I would guess that your key ignition is broken like mine. Currently my Z will start with no key and run and drive. I remove the battery cable when parked.
Below it sounds like he has no prior knowledge of the Z cars.
Have you checked the motor isn't seized? Can you turn it over by hand at the pulley?
you may have water in the cyender, remove all spark plugs then turn over engine, you probably have blown head gasket
THE COLOR 905 IS CALLED ~ CARNIVAL RED ~ . IT WAS ALSO KNOWN AS ANOTHER NAME BUT I CAN'T REMEMBER WHAT IT WAS EXACTLY, BUT I BELIEVE IT WAS KNOWN AS ~ RALLY RED ~ AND WAS MADE FROM 1969 THROUGH 1973 OR LATER UNTIL IT WAS BASICALLY RENAMED SOMETHING ELSE. -- Added 11/8/08 -- The name I have heard most often for 905 is 'Monte Carlo Red'. This color was only used in the US on 240Zs for 1970-71 model years. For the 1972 and later model years the color was reformulated to be a bit more orange-red, the newer color was code 110.
The firing order is 1342 on all 4 cyl engines if you need anymore information please let me know. i need more information please
Shop manuals are the best place to find the diagrams but there is also a vacuum diagram sticker stuck to the lower right of the inside of your hood.
A bolt that has a tall head on it will work. Be sure to put a but on the back so that it does not fall off while you are driving.
You should also look around for a vacuum leak
Would help to know the make/model/and at least the engine size in order to help you further...
I'm finding 2286 pounds for a 620 pickup, not year-specific, so 1600-1800cc etc could vary a little, but that's close. (Now I'm digging for the front/rear weight distribution.)
The vehicle serial number is located on the upper face of the right side frame. The vehicle ID plate is located at the right side hood ledge in the engine compartment.
Not hard at all. Jack the car up and put a jack stand under it so you can safely slid under it. Remove the right tire and then remove the brake drum. You may need to do a little work to get this off depending on its condition. Then once inside the brake area you can locate the cable connector. It is a simple slip on type of connector and you don't need to remove all the parts to get to it. A long needle nose is helpful tho. Slide under the car and find the cable and follow it to the connector from the emergency brake handle. Remove the nuts that secure the cable in place. Then go back to the right brake drum remove the cable. It is pressed into place and might require a little pounding to get out. Look at the new one and you will get an idea of how it is held in place. Once out clean up that area for the new cable and install from the drum to the connector. Then reinstall the drum and adjust both the drum brakes and the cable. This typically took me about an hour and a half to complete with all the adjustments.
The L28 engine is the most common Z car engine. Removal of the cranshaft is staight forward. Sans the steps required to pull the engine from the car, with the engine mounted on an engine stand, the steps are: 1) Remove all exterior components from the engine. (Alternator, starter, water pump, intake/exhaust manifold). 2) Remove main pulley 3) Remove front engine cover. Requires the removal of the distributor, oil pump and pump drive shaft from cover, first. 4) Drain engine oil, remove valve cover 5) Remove engine head: remove cam sproket, chain, head requires a 10mm hex drive to loosen head bolts. Lift head from engine, set down on side, being carefull not to damage the valves. 6) Rotate engine 180 degrees, upside down on engine stand. 7) Remove oil filter, oil pan, oil pick up tube. 8) Remove rod caps from crankshaft. 9) Remove crankshaft main caps. Frint and rear main caps are most difficullt to remove and require leveraging these out of the machined surfaces. Be carefull not to damage the mating surfaces. 10) Crankshaft should lift out of engine block.
Remove wheels Re-install 2 lug nuts to hold rotor in place Remove caliper mouting bolts Slide caliper off rotor Use a "C" clamp to fully retract piston into caliper body Replace inner and outer brake pads Re-Install caliper REMEMBER TO PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIOR TO MOVING VEHICLE
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