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I believe that it is somewhere around 16city 27highway for the manual transmission.

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Transmissions are all the same, only the drive shaft is different lengths for 2+2 and coupe(shorter) both 5 speed and automatics fit either 2+2 or coupe.

Steve

The Zman, since 1983 -1989 have owned all years except for 1988

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firing order. 1-5-3-6-2-4...same as a Chevy straight 6, same as every straight 6.

counter clockwise and by putting a bubbagushts in your engine

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4cyl- 1 3 4 2 -- V6- 1 2 3 4 5 6(really!)

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Could very well be the spark plugs or possibly fuel injectors. I had the same problem and it was the spark plugs. check for dead spots in your tps. also check that the resistance in your airflow meter is consistant.

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its a show.....get over it(apparantly it has a 85 mm stroke vs a 84)

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You will have to remove the valve cover and then the tensioner. After that take off the timing chain cover and then it'll come right out. It's about a 45 min job. I am at ureagletz@yahoo.com if you have anymore questions. Tray

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i do not know but you cna ask some other people m8

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Unfortunately, there is no "fix" for a leaky brake line other than completely replacing it. Brake lines are under extreme pressure and NOTHING will stop the leak. Attempts at patching a brake line only endanger the occupants in the vehicle when it busts free (and it will)posing a crash hazard. If you have very thick soled shoes, and a very strong left leg, you might try opening the drivers door and dragging your foot. Otherwise, PLEASE have a qualified technician replace that brake line!

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Could be an ignition coil breaking down at high revs. or the points gap could also be closing at high rev. due to points bouncing..set the dwell at the higher rating Andy

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I'm somewhat confused by your use of the term "starter button". I assume you're referring to hooking up a remote starter allowing you to spin the engine while you're working under the hood. First make sure that the vehicle is in either park or neutral. Second, make sure that the ignition switch is in the "off" position. Locate the starter solenoid which is atop the starter assembly. Disconnect the trigger wire at it's spade terminal. The wire will most likely be yellow in color. Connect one end of your remote starter button at this terminal on the starter and the other end to the positive battery post.

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This is a common ignition problem. Use a DIY test button push start. I would guess that your key ignition is broken like mine. Currently my Z will start with no key and run and drive. I remove the battery cable when parked.

Below it sounds like he has no prior knowledge of the Z cars.

Have you checked the motor isn't seized? Can you turn it over by hand at the pulley?

you may have water in the cyender, remove all spark plugs then turn over engine, you probably have blown head gasket

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THE COLOR 905 IS CALLED ~ CARNIVAL RED ~ . IT WAS ALSO KNOWN AS ANOTHER NAME BUT I CAN'T REMEMBER WHAT IT WAS EXACTLY, BUT I BELIEVE IT WAS KNOWN AS ~ RALLY RED ~ AND WAS MADE FROM 1969 THROUGH 1973 OR LATER UNTIL IT WAS BASICALLY RENAMED SOMETHING ELSE. -- Added 11/8/08 -- The name I have heard most often for 905 is 'Monte Carlo Red'. This color was only used in the US on 240Zs for 1970-71 model years. For the 1972 and later model years the color was reformulated to be a bit more orange-red, the newer color was code 110.

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The firing order is 1342 on all 4 cyl engines if you need anymore information please let me know. i need more information please

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Shop manuals are the best place to find the diagrams but there is also a vacuum diagram sticker stuck to the lower right of the inside of your hood.

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Would help to know the make/model/and at least the engine size in order to help you further...

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I'm finding 2286 pounds for a 620 pickup, not year-specific, so 1600-1800cc etc could vary a little, but that's close. (Now I'm digging for the front/rear weight distribution.)

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The vehicle serial number is located on the upper face of the right side frame. The vehicle ID plate is located at the right side hood ledge in the engine compartment.

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Not hard at all. Jack the car up and put a jack stand under it so you can safely slid under it. Remove the right tire and then remove the brake drum. You may need to do a little work to get this off depending on its condition. Then once inside the brake area you can locate the cable connector. It is a simple slip on type of connector and you don't need to remove all the parts to get to it. A long needle nose is helpful tho. Slide under the car and find the cable and follow it to the connector from the emergency brake handle. Remove the nuts that secure the cable in place. Then go back to the right brake drum remove the cable. It is pressed into place and might require a little pounding to get out. Look at the new one and you will get an idea of how it is held in place. Once out clean up that area for the new cable and install from the drum to the connector. Then reinstall the drum and adjust both the drum brakes and the cable. This typically took me about an hour and a half to complete with all the adjustments.

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The L28 engine is the most common Z car engine. Removal of the cranshaft is staight forward. Sans the steps required to pull the engine from the car, with the engine mounted on an engine stand, the steps are: 1) Remove all exterior components from the engine. (Alternator, starter, water pump, intake/exhaust manifold). 2) Remove main pulley 3) Remove front engine cover. Requires the removal of the distributor, oil pump and pump drive shaft from cover, first. 4) Drain engine oil, remove valve cover 5) Remove engine head: remove cam sproket, chain, head requires a 10mm hex drive to loosen head bolts. Lift head from engine, set down on side, being carefull not to damage the valves. 6) Rotate engine 180 degrees, upside down on engine stand. 7) Remove oil filter, oil pan, oil pick up tube. 8) Remove rod caps from crankshaft. 9) Remove crankshaft main caps. Frint and rear main caps are most difficullt to remove and require leveraging these out of the machined surfaces. Be carefull not to damage the mating surfaces. 10) Crankshaft should lift out of engine block.

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Remove wheels Re-install 2 lug nuts to hold rotor in place Remove caliper mouting bolts Slide caliper off rotor Use a "C" clamp to fully retract piston into caliper body Replace inner and outer brake pads Re-Install caliper REMEMBER TO PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIOR TO MOVING VEHICLE