yes, u need to disconnect drive shafts to enable you to remove trans mission to get at cluth and pressure plate
Must be done from underneath (unles you remove the entire engine), hoist up the car and work from underneath. Drain Gear box oil. Remove wheels, disconnect bolts and swing out wheel hubs, remove CV Joint drive shafts (both sides). Disconnect two get change levers Disconnect clutch cable Undo all the bolts holding on the gear box (have to remove the entire gear box to get to the clutch) Remove pressure plate and clutch plate. Do the reverse to put it all back together. Replace gear box oil Take lots of Panadol and cover injuries to hands with Band-aid Plasters, might need a few Blood Pressure Pills afterwards to lower you Blood Pressure as it is a very very difficult task to change a Daewoo clutch. I have just replaced my clutch due to it slipping all the time....but it was not the clutch plate wearing that was the cause of the slipping....it was the pressure plast spring fingers that had fractured causing loss of pressure on the clutch plate. Good luck...your'e going to need it Keith in Darwin Australia
I'm assuming you mean the pressure plate on the clutch. It is a time consuming job. The transmission has to come out. Then the clutch comes out. It is about a $600 job to get this done and also put in a new clutch disc. Unless you know your way around transmissions and drive shafts I would suggest having it done.
Gear? That is what a clutch does. The clutch assembly which consists of the clutch disc and the pressure plate that applies the pressure to engage the clutch. The clutch on the front of an air conditioner pump is magnetic and engages metal to metal without a clutch disc between them.
Almost any shaft but on some you need to tape it on. All shafts fit on a brine clutch and the best shafts are totally preference
the brine clutch head will fit on any brine lacrosse shafts. I have the Clutch on my brine swizzebeat. i recommended this shaft its is light gripy and cheap. it is only 80 dollars
Sure... you pull out the axle shafts, and its disconnected.
only if you disconnect both drive shafts.
Callaway clubs differ from other clubs because they have bore through shafts. These can be difficult to put in, so you should really get your local pro or clubfitter to replace them.
ANY BRINE SHAFT AND SOME WARRIORS (EX) WARRIOR DIAMOND
Remove the drive/prop shaft(s) from the gear box, remove the gearbox. Take the clutch and mechanism out and replace with the new one, you will have to use a clutch alignment tool to make sure that the centre hole on the clutch lines up with the crank shaft. Then put the gearbox back on along with the drives/prop-shafts. To be honest seeing as you had to ask the question, I recommend you don't attempt it yourself.
remove drive shaft/s crossmember and starter. remove bellhousing bolts. slid tranny back saporting it on jack. remove presure plate bolts and remove both the presure plate and clutch. inspect the fly wheel before installing the clutch if its got a blue tint or deep scratches turn or replace. install the alignment tool in the clutch and replace the presure plate and bolts. then just install tranny,crossmember and drive shafts. besure not to brake or kink the hydrolid clutch line. any ? e-mail me at firstname.lastname@example.org You have to remove the transfer case before removing the transmission.
See the Related Links for "mazda 626 forum" to the bottom for the answer.
No. The axle shafts are directly connected to the wheel hub which is what the wheel bolts to. There is no disconnect anywhere in the front axle. The only disconnect is in the transfer case.
This is no easy task, I suggest you get a service manual. It involves removing the battery, starter, transaxle support brackets, power distribution center, axle shafts, and the transaxle. Might be easier to just remove the engine.
you need to remove the drive shafts and the gearbox // but you can replace without taking the gearbox fully out the car you use screw rod of the same thread dimension on the tp two bolts of the box and slide it back far enough to carry out the job
Disconnect the battery, Disconnect all the stuff bolted onto the transmission and transfer case, disconnect the drive shafts, use a transmission jack to remove the transfer case, then use the tranny jack to remove the transmission. Remove the clutch basket or torque converter from the flywheel. Reassemble in reverse order. Take a few pictures first, label any wires or linkages so they get put back in the right place. Its much easier to pay a mechanic though
Drive shafts, PTO shafts, Steering shafts, Axle shafts,
It's not an easy job! You have to disconnect the tie rods from the wheel spindles. Then you pull the CV shafts out of the gearbox. Then disconnect the speedometer cable and any other wires or sensors. You'll then disconnect the clutch linkage and start removing the bolts holding the transmission to the engine (they will go around the transmission in a circle). Once those are out, you should be able to pull the transmission away from the engine. There will be 5 main components to a manual transmission clutch system: 1. Flywheel: This is the engine side of the setup. It's like a brake rotor and the pressure plate is bolted to this. 2. Pressure plate: This is bolted to the flywheel on the engine. 3. Clutch disk: This is sandwiched between the flywheel on the engine and the pressure plate. It is this device that transfers motion and torque therefore making the actual connection between the engine and the transmission / wheels. 4. Throwout bearing: This presses up against the fingers on the pressure plate to engage/disengage the clutch 5. Pilot bearing: This sits behind the flywheel and is actually pressed into the back of the crankshaft. You'll want to unbolt the pressure plate from the engine flywheel. The clutch plate should pretty much fall down when you take it off... Examine the springs on the pressure plate, are any broken? if you shake it, does it rattle? How is the surface? It should be shiny like a brake rotor and free of gouges and rust. If not, you'll need to replace it. If it looks ok, get a can of brake cleaner and spray it down to clean it up. set it aside. Look at the flywheel. It also should look smooth with no gouges or major deep lines. If, so, it needs to come off to be machined (not an easy job). There are many ways to remove a pilot bushing from a crankshaft. I prefer the wet toilet paper method. If you stick your finger inside the center of the flywheel, you'll feel the pilot bushing. Wad up a handful of wet toilet paper and stuff it in the hold slowly. Then take a wooden dowel and hammer it into the toilet paper in the center, if all goes well, the toilet paper will force it's way under the pilot bushing and squeeze it out. Clean out the pilot bearing hole and replace with a new one. ALWAYS REPLACE THE THROWOUT BEARING! Look at the back of the transmission. There should be a throwout bearing sitting in a clip on the shaft. Remove this and replace it with a new one. Lube the part of the shaft that the pilot bearing travels on with antiseize. Get a clutch alignment tool that matches your clutch tooth arrangement and put the new clutch disk on it. Slide the disk and alignment tool into the flywheel and also the pilot bushing. It should line up and sit nicely. Then take your pressure plate and line it up with the mounting holes on the flywheel over the clutch and alignment tool. tighten loosely. Once all bolts are in place, torque them to at least 60 PSI in a star pattern. You now should be able to remove the clutch alignment tool and the clutch should stay in place between the flywheel and the pressure plate. Line your transmission shaft up with the hole and gently slide it in through the pressure place, through the clutch plate, through the flywheel and into the pilot bushing. You must keep the transmission level w/the engine or you'll mess up the clutch plate alignment and need to loosen the pressure plate to re-align it again. Once it's lined up and flush, replace the bolts following the same torquing procedure as above. Grab the clutch fork and try to move the clutch by hand (it should be possible on that car). It should be hard, but not impossible. It should be pretty quiet w/ no squeaks. Attach all cables and clutch linkage. Test the clutch from inside the car. It should engage and disengage quietly with no major friction. Insert axles and reconnect to the spindles. Attach tie rods. Make sure everything is tight. Test out the car and clutch. If it's slipping, or engaging too close to the floor, you may need to adjust the linkage.
the nitro motor turns the slipper clutch on the transmission which turns the output shafts that are tied to the front and rear differentials
clutch is a mechanism for transmitting rotation, which can be engaged and disengaged. Clutches are useful in devices that have two rotating shafts. In these devices, one shaft is typically driven by a motor or pulley, and the other shaft drives another device. In a drill, for instance, one shaft is driven by a motor, and the other drives a drill chuck. The clutch connects the two shafts so that they can either be locked together and spin at the same speed (engaged), or be decoupled and spin at different speeds (disengaged).types of different clutches are:Dog clutchesCone clutchesTorque limiter or Safety clutch: This device allows a rotating shaft to "slip" when higher than normal resistance is encountered on a machine. An example of a safety clutch is the one mounted on the driving shaft of a large grass mower. The clutch will "slip" or "give" if the blades hit a rock, stump, or other immobile object.Overrunning clutch or freewheelCentrifugal clutch and semi-centrifugal clutchHydraulic clutchElectromagnetic clutch
Clutch is a mechanism for transmitting rotation, which can be engaged and disengaged. Clutches are useful in devices that have two rotating shafts. In these devices, one shaft is typically driven by a motor or pulley, and the other shaft drives another device. In a drill, for instance, one shaft is driven by a motor, and the other drives a drill chuck. The clutch connects the two shafts so that they can either be locked together and spin at the same speed (engaged), or be decoupled and spin at different speeds (disengaged).types of different clutches are:Dog clutchesCone clutchesTorque limiter or Safety clutch: This device allows a rotating shaft to "slip" when higher than normal resistance is encountered on a machine. An example of a safety clutch is the one mounted on the driving shaft of a large grass mower. The clutch will "slip" or "give" if the blades hit a rock, stump, or other immobile object.Overrunning clutch or freewheelCentrifugal clutch and semi-centrifugal clutchHydraulic clutchElectromagnetic clutch
Remove airbox, drive shafts, all connectors onto gearbox, gear selector rod, battery and battery tray, starter motor and then all bolts securing the gearbox. Remove gearbos, and then remove the bolts securing the clutch. Fit new clutch making sure you allign the clutch plate. Refit everything in reverse.
AnswerSounds like the clutch disk is worn out or stripped off. Plan on a new clutch disk, pressure plate, flywheel resurfacing and throwout bearing. It will cost a few hundred dollars if you have someone else do it and probably around $150.00 if you get the parts and have a machine shop turn the flywheel then finish the job yourself. You could also check to see if you blew one of your CV axle shafts, if one goes then it will seem like the clutch is gone.
without sounding sarcastic you'd remove the old and replace with a new unit. i.e remove wheels, drop off bottom arms, remove drive shafts, gearbox (drain oil first) and then hey presto its there. step by step would be a haynes manual but if your competent and have a few tools do it on your drive with a few cups of tea.