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You will need a whole new bottom bracket, which should come with new bearings.
It depends on how much damage was done to the crank. If the journal is smooth and mics out as still round and close to original specs it will last just as long as a crank that has been turned. If you actually spun a bearing then you can bet that the crank journal will no longer be round and putting a new bearing in won't last long at all. You can pick up a mic gauge really cheap at harbor freight. The cheap ones will be plastic....and though they aren't as good as the professional ones, they will take fairly accurate measurements.
Tear the engine completely apart, have the case and crank checked by a machinist, then buy new bearings and install them. It takes about three days if the engine needs machine work.
you have a couple options, you can pull the motor and have it rebuilt swap in a used motor from a junk yard drop the transmission and pull the crank, replacing it with a new crank rods and bearings if you are lucky you may not have scored the crank and you can replace the one bearing ang rod or you can junk/sell the car
There is only one main bearing. It is on the flywheel side and is a plane bearing (not a ball or needle bearing). You have to remove the crankshaft, press the old bearing out and press the new one in. Once the new one is installed, it MUST be checked for proper oil clearance. If it's not correct (tight), it will lock and destroy the rest of the engine. There is only one main bearing. It is on the flywheel side and is a plane bearing (not a ball or needle bearing). You have to remove the crankshaft, press the old bearing out and press the new one in. Once the new one is installed, it MUST be checked for proper oil clearance. If it's not correct (tight), it will lock and destroy the rest of the engine.
You can purchase new or used bearing caps, but there is machine work required. If you are talking about main bearing caps, the block will need to be line bored with the new cap in place. If you're talking about a connecting rod bearing cap, the rod will need to be resized with the new bearing cap in place.
Most likely the knock you hear is not a main bearing, but a rod bearing. When the bearings wear, they tend to get egg shaped and once the oil warms and thins out, the knock becomes more apparent. It is possible (if the crank journals are not worn beyond tolerances and there are no cracks) that a new set of bearings alone can temporarily quiet the knock down. This is something a backyard mechanic could do if he (or she) is experienced. However, leave the tolerance checking to a professional. There are a number of things he will want to check and all are important.
your crank sensor has absolutly nothing to do with the ability of the engine turning over. I would look at the wiring to the starter.
You may need a new battery.
Hi, your problem could quite possibly be your bottom end rod bearing. I have a kx 250 and I've just had to tear mine down and I'm fixing to replace it. The bearing I'm talking about is the one that is where the rod connects with the crank.
Too much bearing clearance on cam shaft bearings, connecting rod bearing or crank shaft main bearings. Or bad oil pump or oil pump relief valve. Also check the oil filter as they can bypass internally.
Make sure your # 6 rod cap is in correctly if it is then 2 possibilities 1 the line bore is bad and needs machined or you have the wrong size bearing check to make sure there is nothing under the bearing as well