The tree is not dripping sap, but the sticky substance you took for sap is known as honeydew, a polite term for the excrement produced by the insects feeding on your tree. The bees (and probably flies and ants) are there to consume this sugary substance.
The tree is infested with magnolia scale. It is a common pest of saucer magnolia (Magnolia soulangiana), star magnolia (M. stellata) and cucumbertree magnolia (M. acuminata). You may not have noticed the insects on the smaller twigs -- they look like little white bumps. It is understandable that gardeners have a hard time believing these "bumps" are living insects because they do not move. Once the maturing scale insect inserts its mouthparts into a twig or small branch, it spends its entire life in the same place. Magnolia scale (Neolecanium cornuparvum) is the largest scale insect in the United States.
Magnolia scale resides on trees year-round, but goes unnoticed until it starts producing large amounts of honeydew. Soft scale insects insert piercing-sucking mouthparts into the portion of a plant's vascular system responsible for transporting the carbohydrates and sugars produced by photosynthesis. Honeydew can be a real annoyance when it drips on the lower leaves and anything unfortunate enough to be under the magnolia. It also attracts nuisance insects such as yellow jackets, ants and flies. To make matters worse, a black sooty mold fungus often grows on the honeydew. Although it is unattractive, sooty mold does no real damage to the tree. It is simply growing on the carbohydrate-rich honeydew.
It is helpful to understand this pest's life cycle to control it effectively. Magnolia scale warrants control, not only because of the mess it creates, but also because it can cause severely infested branches to die. It does not take long for a sizable population to build up. Adults are covered with a waxy covering that makes them quite impervious to insecticide applications, so you have a narrow window of time when the young nymphs (immature insects) are susceptible. Newly hatched nymphs are also known as crawlers because it is the only point in their life cycle when they are mobile. There is one generation of magnolia scale a year in our climate.
Control is a two-step process. First, apply a horticultural oil spray just before the tree leafs out in spring to kill the overwintering nymphs. They are quite small and difficult to see as small, gray dots on smaller twigs. They are visible to the naked eye when you know what you are looking for, and you may find it helpful to look with a magnifying glass. Horticultural oil suffocates the pests rather than poisoning them, and it will greatly reduce the number of young produced in late summer. Horticultural oil is more refined and lighter than dormant oil (Volck oil), and there is less chance of burning tender new foliage if you mistakenly spray as the tree begins leafing out in the spring.
The timing for the second step is critical because the newly hatched crawlers are very susceptible to insecticide applications, including environmentally friendly products such as insecticidal soap. Magnolia scale is in its crawler stage in late August and early September in our area. Of course, insects do not live by the calendars that govern our lives; their development is based on temperature and moisture.
It is always best to check to make sure you see active crawlers before applying insecticide sprays to control them. The crawlers are quite small but can be seen upon careful inspection with a hand lens or magnifying glass. They will appear as small, moving, reddish specks. Begin checking your magnolia in late July. Make your first insecticide application when you first see the crawlers moving around.
Sevin (carbaryl), Bayer Advanced Power Force Multi-Insect Killer (cyfluthrin), horticultural oil, Bayer Advanced Garden Tree & Shrub Insect Control (imidacloprid), insecticidal soap, BioNeem (neem), and malathion are all registered for control of magnolia scale crawlers. Depending on the insecticide, you may need to make repeat applications at the intervals recommended on the product label.
Yes 6 hours
It is safe to pass a snow plow when it is parked or when it is moving with the plow raised so that it is not engaged.
Not sure what vehicle you have but check the fuses. Some vehicles have separate fuses for left and right headlights.
This usually means a leak in the line somewhere, very small if it needs overnight for you to notice. But any fuel leak is dangerous, have it checked out.
ignition switch in the steering column is faulty. Car would not start when the car is parked in the sun. Need to remove the steering to get to the switch.
As long as the parked vehicle is parked properly and not illegally parked in any manner, then the vehicle that rear-ended the parked car is at fault. Now if the parked car is sitting illegally (such as double parked or parked in a no parking zone, etc.) then the parked car is at fault or even both the parked car AND the car that hits it are BOTH at fault.
Check for exhaust leak before certain o2 sensors.
With engine cold (prior to first starting in the morning) and parked on level ground - remove dipstick and check oil level as shown
The person's who parked it there, (its parked illegally.)Not your fault.
Parked was created in 2011.
Leave the car parked unlocked on a large city street overnight. The radio should be gone by morning.
Yes. It happens in North Dakota's winter morning, if you parked your car outside. , It is pretty bad sometime.
It is mistaken, even silly, to refer to parked domains as being "unused" if they are earning good money from advertising for their domaineer owners. Domaineering is a legal and legitimate online marketing business that wouldn't exist if it didn't produce revenue from domain parking.
It would be the car who had parked illegally because he was not parked in a legal spot.
'Parked aircraft'.
I parked my car in the driveway
Yes it can be an adjective: We walked past the parked cars.