Not if all you are doing is replacing the rotor and/or distributor cap. If you are trying to find the correct way to wire the spark plugs then yes it is very important.
When fitting or removing a distributor, the rotor arm points at No1. You do of course have to rotate the engine, so that No1 cylinder is on compression stroke and the timing marks are in about the right place first. Suzuki jeeps like the SJ 413, Vitara and Samurai are set up on No4 though.
I have a 1999 cr-v. With the distributor cap off you must slightly give the key a turn in the ignition (not trying to start it) just to turn the rotor a little. When the teeth on the rotor face the front end of the car you should be able to see a phillip's head screw on the back side that screws directly into the distributor shaft. Unscrew this and the rotor should slide right off. Be careful not to strip the screw, because you might end up having to take off the entire distributor housing to drill it out.
The distributor should face forward rather than backward on the Chevy 350. It is important to mark the front face of the distributor before removing it.
Undo the two Phillips screws (the lower one is difficult to get) on the distributor cap and remove the cap. Pull the distributor rotor off the shaft. The module is mounted flat across the surface directly below the rotor. It is a semi-circular dark grey or brown piece taking up about half the surface of the distributor face, held on with two small hex-head screws. This is a NOTORIOUS failure item in early Sunbirds, if you have brutally erratic and total no-starts this is something to try early on in the diagnostic game.
if the number one piston is at top dead center the rotor should point at number one spark plug wire and rotate toward the next spark plug wire in the firing order.
As you face the engine the first spark plug wire on your left is connected tot he first cylinder. Trace it back to the distributor and you will have the proper hole. If you have no wires connected then it is usually positioned at about 1 oclock as you face the distributor. (assuming the distributor is properly positioned)
you face your distributor to your number 1 which should be the driver front plug.get it to where it starts, then you have to get it timed through your computer at a shop.
take the wheel off, remove the two bolts off the back of the caliper, take the caliper off the rotor, take the little star screw out of the the face of the rotor, after that take a mallet and tap the rotor and it should come right off!
Depends some distributors are vertical some horozontal put the plug end in with wires facing away from center of distributor
The face value of any number is the number itself!
Remove rear wheels. Remove both rear caliper and brake pad assemblies. Hang them aside. On the face of the rear rotor check to see if there is an Allen screw securing rotor to axle - remove screw. Be sure emergency brake is not on. Remove rotor. If it doesn't want to come off, emergency brake is probably hanging it up. Locate emergency brake adjuster through wheel bolt hole in the face of the rotor (rotate axle and rotor using a light to locate the star adjuster). Using a screwdrive back off adjuster to release emergency brake shoes. Try again to remove. If it still doesn't come off, hit the face of the rotor at hub with a hammer (not kidding!) as rust may be holding it in place.
remove the caliper, pads and mounts. There is a set screw in the face of the rotor, remove this. Thread in a bolt of same thread size and tighten until rotor pops off hub. The rotor will fall off the hub. A light tap of a hammer on the rotor in a circular pattern, should produce similar results if you don't a bolt.
The face value of any number is equal to the number itself. Therefore, the face value of the 9 in the number 43943 is 9.
whay is serial number face smoother?
No, you can remove and/or replace the front rotors on your Jeep Liberty without having to repack the wheel bearings. To remove the rotor, remove the brake caliper, and then pull the rotor straight off the wheel studs. If the rotor doesn't budge, then use an air hammer to tap the front face of the rotor adjacent to the wheel studs (the flat area of the rotor directly between the wheel studs). This will knock the rust loose and let the rotor slip off the studs. DO NOT use the air hammer on the braking [shiny] surface of the rotor!
The marked # 1 position on the distributor cap should face to the rear and slightly towards the drivers side on the 7.5 liter ( 460 cubic inch )
The spring faces the engine block ( and the vent hole goes to the top )
front or rear are the same. you have to remove the caliper and the caliper mounting bracket. you may have to tap the face of the rotor with a hammer to loosen. on the rears you may have to unadjust the rear parking brake shoes.
The firing order for a 1996 Chevrolet S10 Blazer is 1, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2. The number one cylinder is on the front right as you face the engine.
Can you please re-submit your question , and include the information about which engine you have . It would save a lot of typing , thanks. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ The spark plug firing order on your 3.0 L is ( 1 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 3 - 6 ) The distributor rotor turns CLOCKWISE The distributor cap is installed with the marked # 1 position facing towards the firewall and slightly towards the passenger side The engine cylinders / spark plugs are numbered : passenger side of engine , front to rear , 1 , 2 , 3 and drivers side of engine , front to rear , 4 , 5 , 6
Same as for a 302. 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. numbers 1-4 on the left bank as you face the crankshaft pulley, and numbers 5-8 on the right bank counting from front to rear. ( also , the distributor rotor turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE )
The firing order for a 1995 Toyota Tacoma 4 cylinder is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. There is no distributor, and the number one cylinder is on the front left as you face it.
yes it is
Rotors for disc brakes can be machined on the car or taken off and done. A bench mounted brake lathe does it off of the car. The rotor is clamped on the lathe which turn the rotor and a cutting chisel runs over the face to make a smooth surface. Takes out grooves and any warp there may be in the rotor.