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if you have to ask then you would be best to take it to a garage they are tricky as the wheel berring has to come off first and its pressed in to place its not an easy job with all the right tools so not a job for the drive way

If you are replacing the rotor, you need to remove the caliper & pads. I have yet to discover whether you need to remove the rack the caliper rides on. If you are having old rotors machined, you need not worry about the bearing races, which need to be pressed in (or out if changing) by a machine shop. These can come in & out using a punch & hammer for removal, and can be replaced by using the old race to carefully & evenly drive in the new races.

You should have bearing grease & replacement seals prior to beginning work.

For dissassembly:
Remove hubcap & wheel.
remove the brake caliper, and if necessary, the caliper rack.
remove the wheel retainer grease cap with a flat screwdriver, being careful not to dent it. Remove the cotter key, and the nut retainer. Then back the wheel nut off & washer, and place in a container so as not to lose it or contaminate with dirt.
At this point, the outside wheel bearing(s) will be loose. Place them in a safe container to avoid any dirt entering the bearing.
TIP: once the front bearings are out, the old rotor should move freely in your hand. Replace the washer & rotor retainer nut (the big one from the middle of the axle) loosely so it will not fall off if jarred. Then pull the rotor off in a sharp motion, letting the top rest on the axle (in other words, don't try to hold it in the center, free from the axle)
This should cause the inner bearing to strike the washer, which will cause the seal & bearing to pop out of the assembly.
Clean and inspect races. If new rotors are installed, verify they came with races pre-installed. If not, purchase replacement bearings, and have your local machine shop press the races in the new rotor.

You should thoroughly clean used bearings & re-grease. New bearings must also be re-grease, though they are likely to have some grease present upon purchase.
Place a nice little pile of grease on the meaty part of your hand nearest your thumb, and squish the open / larger side of the bearing repeatedly until you see fresh grease coming out the small side. repeat this process until all facets of the bearing are completely packed with fresh, uncontaminated grease. repeat for all bearings
IMPORTANT: DO NOT ASSUME GREASE WILL MIGRATE TO ALL AREAS WITH WHEEL ROTATION. any dry spot on the bearings will ruin it shortly, and you'll be doing the work over again.

replace the rear bearings and use the old race or seal as a guide to hammer (gently) in the new seal.
Carefully clean the nekkid axle to avoid any dirt that could contaminate the fresh bearings.
Replace the rotor, washer, nut and castellated retainer. tighten until the rotor becomes difficult to rotate or stops altogether. Back the nut off until the first place where the rotor will turn freely, and find the nearest spot loosened from that where the castellated retainer will align with the cotter key.
Use a new cotter key

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