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These bolts have elongated heads that fit in narrow sockets in the floor flange so they cannot turn.
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∙ 11y ago
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What if a toilet flange will not fit in the drain pipe?
The easiest solution would be to move the toilet so that it lines up with the waste pipe.
Should the closet flange be level with the floor or be 14 inches higher than the floor?
Sure. Either way. The wax ring seals the toilet to the closet flange so it doesn't really matter that much. The important part is that the toilet be mounted firmly to the floor so that it doesn't move. That would cause the wax ring to fail then the toilet would leak around the flange.
Why does your toilet move when you sit down?
Mine doesn't move because it is tightly bolted to the flange and the joint between it and the floor is filled with plaster of paris.
How do you move a toilet 3 inches with concrete sub-floor?
If the extisting drain is lead pipe it can be moved about an inch and the use a offset brass floor flange and lead wipe it in place that will give you the 3" you want
How do you move a toilet 3 inches with concrete sub floor?
If the extisting drain is lead pipe it can be moved about an inch and the use a offset brass floor flange and lead wipe it in place that will give you the 3" you want
How do you relocate a drain in a concrete slab?
Change how? Move the location, you bust out the concrete and move it. Replace or repair the flange that the toilet hooks to. Cut the existing flange off flush with the floor and install a new repair flange. They can be brass or steel. You can use a PVC one that fits in the drain and seal it with a wax ring under it and screw it to the floor. If you are working with cast iron flange and the slots where the bolts are supposed to go is broken out, they make a repair piece for this. It is a 3/4 inch wide by 3-4 inch long crescent shape piece that slides under the flange and the bolt that holds the toilet fits into it. You may have to chip out a little concrete along the edge to get these under the flange.
How do you move a toilet to new location in a mobile home?
The toilet itself is easy to install but the plumbing would have to be rerouted by a professional. You just drill the floor and it's 2 bolts.
How do you fix Loose toilet?
If you consider the "outlet pipe" the drain pipe you need to tune the water off before you flush it, take as much water out of the bowl area as possible with a cup, unhook water tube from under side, unbolt the toilet from the floor (bolt on each side) clean old wax ring away, replace with new wax ring (bought from HW store) carefully set toilet back in place, replace and tighten bolts down to floor, re attach water line, turn water back on, check for leaks, and give it a trial run!!
How do you properly replace a toilet floor gasket?
Actually, it's quite easy with a few precautions. First thing is to turn off the water supply, and disconnect the water line connected to the toilet. If the toilet isn't leaking all that bad, after turning off the water supply, flush the toilet, and hold the handle down to allow as much water as possible out of the toilet as this will prevent a mess later when you remove the toilet. When removing the toilet to replace the gasket, be very careful with the nuts and bolts that hold the toilet to the flange. The Flange is the part that holds the toilet down to the floor, and connects it to the sewage pipe (the gasket is actually in between the flange, and the toilet). The nuts shouldn't be much more than "Just Snug", and hopefully once you've "broken" them loose, you will be able to remove them with your fingers without any tools. If the existing bolts are made out of brass, you are in luck because you can usually unscrew the nuts without any problems, and then simply lift the toilet up off of the flange, but if they were made out of steel, they are very likely rusty, and you may not be able to remove the nut easily. It's Okay if the nuts are a "little" too tight to be removed by hand, but they should be easily removed with a small pair of pliers. If this isn't the case, and it seems to take more than "minor" effort, I would recommend that you stop trying to unscrew the nuts because it's possible to damage the flange, and if the flange is damaged, it can be quite a job to replace it. If the nuts seem to be pretty hard to unscrew, it would be better to cut them off, and replace them, and actually they are very easy to replace so it may be better to be safe than sorry. The bolts don't have a normal bolt head, but instead have a special "T-Head" shape. The "T" fits into a slot in the flange which prevents it from turning when being tightened. That's why I recommend not attempting to use too much force to remove the nut because it can cause the "T" in the flange to break the flange. Don't worry about finding new hold down bolts because you can find them just about anywhere, and if fact, I've even seen them in the local Walmart. If you have to cut them off, you can easily do this with a cut-off tool such as a "Dremel" tool with a cut-off wheel, but if you don't have one of these, you can just as easily cut them off with a hacksaw. The only real precaution is to be carefull not to scratch up the toilet if possible. Once you have removed the nuts and any washers (or bolts if necessary), simply lift the toilet straight up off of the flange. What I try to do is to lift the toilet straight up, and then place the toilet in the bath tub to clean it up because when you lean the toilet in any direction, trapped water is going to pour out. Once you have done this, you will need to clean the bottom of the toilet, and the flange as much as possible. It doesn't really need to be spotless, but you don't want to leave anything that would prevent the new gasket from making a good seal. If you had to cut off the bolts to remove the toilet, now is the time to replace the bolts. If the existing bolts were made out of steel, I would recommend replacing them with bolts made out of brass because it may make your life a lot easier if you have to ever replace the gasket again. Some of the gaskets are made out of rubber, but most of the gaskets are made out of wax (at least down here in Texas), and may be referred to as a "wax ring". Both basically require the same precautions, so I will focus on the wax ring. Place the wax ring onto the flange, and then carefully lower the toilet down onto the flange (to make it a little easier, you may want to get someone to help guide the toilet down to make sure that the bolts are aligned correctly). Once the toilet makes contact with the wax ring, try not to move the toilet around such as side-to-side, twisting left or right, or by tilting the toilet in any direction other than straight down. Once the toilet is resting on the flange or now the floor, press down (again being careful not to move the toilet around) until it's resting firmly on the floor, and then place a washer, and nut on each bolt. Tighten the bolts snug, but be careful not to get them too tight because you can crack the base of the toilet if you get them too tight. Once I've done this, I sit down on the toilet to make sure that it's actually all the way down for a minute or so, and then I retighten the nuts once again while being careful not to overtighten the nuts. Replace the water supply line, and turn on the water. Once the toilet has filled, flush it a couple of times to make sure that there are no leaks.
Do they have a toilet for 18 center rough in?
I don't believe so. That is the old style with the tank mounted on the wall and a tube to the base. There is a floor flange with an offset in it that will move it back a couple of inches, but any more and you will need to change the drain or possibly build up the wall behind the toilet if it happens to be in a cut out.
What is the best way to move the toilet flange a couple of feet and is there an adapter to go from cast iron to PVC?
Cut the toilet line down at the first 90 from the flange, and relocate so that your toilet is still vented from it's orignal vent. If it is dry vented, you need to move the toilet and the vent. A no-hub band or fernco coupling is the preferred transistion from cast iron to PVC.Ans 2 -good advice. - BTW, - a Fernco is a heavy duty rubber coupling with a hose clamp each end. They come in many sizes.
How hard is it to turn a set toilet 90 degrees to face a different direction?
It depends on the flange used and how hard it is to move the supply line. Without looking at the job it is impossible to tell. Some toilet flanges have a second mounting point 90 degrees apart, others can have the screws taken out and the mounting ring can then be turned 90 degrees, some have no provision for movement. You would have to remove the toilet to see what you have. If the flange cannot turn or it is in too bad condition (rusted out) you will have to replace it or use a flange repair ring. it depends on the circumstances. If there is room to put an extention flange on it would be easy. if not it depends on your pipe size running to the toilet, if the bottom of the flange is accessable or many other factors.
