How do you bleed the clutch master cylinder on your jeep wrangler?

Answer 1

I bought a bleeder vacumm pump at Oreilly auto parts for 47.99. Bench bleeding with the new hydraulic clutch master cylinder out of the jeep did not seem possible as there is no bleeder valve or one way valve once you remove the hard hydraulic line with the o ring on it from the master cylinder. Note that you will need to punch out the set pin that holds the fitting in place after removing the cylinder from the firewall. I started with a small punch and worked my way down to a deck screw or strong nail and a 4 pound beater. I spray oiled the pin and pulled it out with small vice grips. To install the set pin in the new plastic master cylinder I grabbed one end with the vice grips heated it until it was red hot with a map gas torch and lanced it in place. I still needed to carefully press it in flush with the vice grips around the plastic. This is a one shot deal but it worked well for me. Go easy and get comfortable. Bolt the cylinder back to the firewall after connecting the line. Reattach the clutch pedal inside with the keeper pin. Fill the new reservoir with dot 3 or 4 brake fluid. Open the in line bleeder valve on the bell housing. With your clear hose attached to the bleeder valve and your pump set up to the hose open the valve until fluid flows through the hose and into your capped inline plastic clear jar provided with your pump. I pumped all of the old crap fluid out and constantly filled the new master cylinder reservoir with fluid. It helps if you have someone to monitor the fluid level for you and fill it as needed but you can do it solo by frequently checking it yourself. When your new fluid pumps out clean and bubble free hand tighten up your bleeder valve with your clear hose still attached to it. Check and fill your reservoir, cap it. Sit in the seat and pump your clutch pedal until you feel pressure return. Remove your hose and your pump. Wrench tighten the bleeder valve. I hope that this helps you out. This process took me longer than I initially thought it would but it works. 93yj S/2.5/5spd/dana 30&35 w 410's/ swamper boggers 33x 13.5/Homemade mudflaps for highway patrol/ 3.5" rustys add a leafs/ homemade 5/8x 1/4" stacked and ducttaped platewasher bodylift 1.5"(total) with longer grade 8 bolts (OSH)/ RS 5000's and rs 5000 steering damper/ Home made generic K&N cold air ram Filter with hvac and abs Plumbing parts no hub couplings from Home Depot/ throttle body spacer off ebay/ steel horse targa style 2 piece hard top off Craigslist cost $100 more than the yj. Owner is a cheapskate Ironworker with alot of common sense and American Inginuity.