Mark the location of the rotor, on the distributor before pulling it out, as you have to put it right back in the same location, to keep the motor in time. Then, pull the intake manifold, loosen the rocker arm of the lifter to be changed. Swap lifters, bring the valve to 0 lash, and adjust from there. Re install intake, and valve covers, and distributor, making sure rotor is aimed right where it was. Pretty easy, if you are mechanically inclined. If not, take it to someone. It can get pretty involved for someone who does not know what they are doing.
Take a pushrod and push down on the plunger in the lifter. A hydraulic lifter is spring loaded.
flat
The 1997 Chevrolet 350 lifter will feel springy if the wrong O-ring is installed. There could have been to all rings install, accidentally.
You could take off a rocker and try to push down on the pushrod. You'd be able to feel the spring in a hydraulic lifter, but not on a solid lifter.
take off the valve cover,remove the rockers,take off the intake manifold take out the push rods,then pull out the lifter,if the lifter is mushroomed you may need to get a lifter puller
how do you change a rear main seal in a Chevy 350 motor
There are no torque specs on 350 Chevy engines. Set solid lifter cams with cam manufacturers backlash specifications, set hydraulic lifter cams with 0 backlash plus 1/4-3/4 turns preload. To my knowledge you don't torque valves, you adjust them.Each one must be done individually.
Change engine oil and substitute one of the quarts of oil with one quart of automatic transmission fluid. Run engine for 1000 miles. Change engine oil again with all oil.
I don't understand why you would take it apart to start with. There's no reason to prime it , But I would soak it in a can of oil for a while.
yes if the engine and trans. are both Chevy or Buick or Oldsmobile Buick/Oldsmobile and Pontiac will inter change but Chevy has to go with Chevy
No.
1976 Chevy 350 engine should take 5 qts engine oil with filter change.