How do you change a window regulator in a 2002 gmc Yukon?

Answer 1

I just replaced the left rear window regulator on my 2002 Yukon XL last weekend. The job did not require any special tools, and took me about an hour. BTW, if you have not already purchased the replacement unit from a GM dealer, I recommend that you seriously consider ordering the part online. I paid over $300 for mine, but found to my dismay later that OEM parts can be purchased from gmparstdirectonline.com for less than half that. If you are replacing a rear unit, make sure you get the right part - the Yukon and Yukon XL rear doors are different, so the regulators may be too. I was told by the guy at the parts counter OEM regulators for this model Yukon/Suburban are always sold with the motor attached (which may account for the exorbitant cost).

Anyway, here's the rough procedure for replacing a regulator in a rear door, the procedure for the front door should be similar:

1. Remove the two screws from the door panel using a 7mm nut driver. One is located under the armrest, the other at the front bottom corner of the door.
2. Remove the odd-shaped trim piece from around the door release handle by pushing your index finger into the hole at the base of the handle and gently pulling out - the top edge should pop out, the the bottom edge can then be unhooked and the piece removed.
3. Gently lift up on the door panel. I wedged my fingers under the top part of the panel (where the weather seal meets the window glass) and pried to get it started, then freed it the rest of the way by lifting straight up on the door panel.
4. Once the panel is free, BE CAREFUL - there are two electrical connectors (one to the marker lamp, one to the window and door lock controls) that need to be disconnected before the panel can be moved too far from the door. I used a very small flat screwdriver to release the catches. The marker lamp connector actually contains the light bulb; if you are not careful to pull the connector straight out (towards the front of the vehicle), the bulb may catch and separate from the connector, remaining inside the reflector housing. Once the wiring has been disconnected, set the door panel aside.
5. There is a plastic membrane that is attached to the door frame with some gooey black adhesive. This membrane does not need to be removed completely, but it does need to be peeled back from the vertical sides of the door to allow you to access the regulator. So, starting at one upper corner, separate the membrane from the door along the vertical edge, then repeat for the other side (use a razor blade or utility knife to cut through the adhesive). When finished, the vertical edges of the membrane will be hanging loosely, but it will still be attached at middle of the top and bottom edges.
6. Loosen the 10mm hex-head screws on the two clamps at the bottom edge of the glass, then gently wiggle the clamps with your fingers to free them from the glass. Don't lift the window out of the clamps yet. My window was stuck about 4 inches from the closed position, so the clamps were easily accessible. If yours is in a different position, you may need to try to slide the window up or down a bit to get to the clamps. If it's really stuck, you may need to cut the regulator's cables in order to allow it to move - BEFORE you do that, secure the window to the door frame as described in the next step.
7. Next, you want to get the window up and out of the way. Get some clear plastic packaging tape (it's strong and adheres well to the glass and door, but is easy to remove and doesn't leave marks or residue). Tear off two 12" strips of tape and stick them somewhere handy. With the window glass pressed between the palms of your hands (one inside, one outside), gently lift the glass to the full up position - it should slide easily out of the clamps loosened in the previous step; if it doesn't, go back and make sure they clamps aren't stuck to the glass. Secure the glass in the full up position using the tape strips pressed vertically on the outside of the glass and over the top of the door frame.
8. Loosen the 10mm screw at the top of the rear regulator track, and remove the 10mm screw at the bottom.
9. Disconnect the electrical connector from the regulator motor on the front regulator track. Loosen the 10mm screw at the top of the front regulator track, and remove the two 10mm screws at the bottom.
10. Lift each track slightly so that the top screws can be slid through their keyhole openings. Gently work the entire assembly out through the large opening at the rear of the door panel - you will probably need to tilt both tracks towards the rear of the door - just be careful, and you'll get it.
11. Fitting the new regulator/motor assembly is basically the reverse of steps 7 and 8. The front track and motor assembly goes in first, followed by the rear track. Fit the top screws first, then the bottom ones. Make sure the wires for the motor run behind the regulator assembly, and reattach the connector. Tighten all 5 screws.
12. Next, check the operation of the new regulator. You'd think that you could just go to the driver's side door, put the key in the ignition, and hit the button for the window you're working on. You'd be wrong. I'm not sure whether it's by design or not, but it turns out that the window switch on the door you are working on has to be connected before the window will activate. The easiest thing to do is to just pop the switch assembly out of the door panel and connect it temporarily to the electrical connector in the door. BE CAREFUL - at this point, the regulator is not yet attached to the window. Nudge the UP button so that the window clamps on the regulator tracks approach the bottom of the window. Once you are sure they are aligned, nudge the UP button so that the bottom edge of the window glass is firmly seated in rubber clamp cushions and the window is in the full UP position. Tighten the clamp.
13. Reseal the plastic membrane onto the door frame, clean up any adhesive mess with Goo-gone or something similar.
14. Disconnect the window switch from the connector and reinstall it in the door panel.
15. Remove the door lock slider from the panel and set aside (I used a small flat screwdriver to gently pry it away from the door panel).
16. Look at the inside of the door panel. Notice the connector tabs, and where they fit into the door.
17. Holding the door panel close to the door, reconnect the electrical connectors for the switches and marker lamp.
18. Refit the door panel by aligning the tabs on the panel with the receptacles in the door. Holding the panel flat against the door, slide it down until it locks into place.
19. Check to make sure the window and door lock operate properly and the marker lamp lights.
20. Secure the door panel to the door with the two 7mm screws.
21. Align the door lock lever with the metal rod of the lock latch, and pop it into place in the door panel. Refit the odd-shaped trim piece around the door release handle. You're done!