How do you change fuel injectors on a 95' Chevy Blazer?

Answer 1

1995 Chevrolet Blazer CPI

As far as mechanics go, or anybody who gets paid to talk to you will say you have to replace the entire spider injection which runs about $200+ on eBay and $300+ from your local autoparts store. There is an updated version of the spider for around $400 but if your situation is like anything like mine (single leaking injector causing a cylinder misfire) the $60 dollar option definitely seems the best. So here you go, btw I did snag the write up off some site I had in my favorites but everything looks right.

The most important thing to remember is you need to immediately block your intake ports firmly with shop rags. If not, you may learn the hard way...as I did....that you can easily lose a part or tool inside and find yourself removing the lower intake as well....with much aggrevation, and time wasted.

I can't say it enough! It takes 5 seconds to be safe.

As soon as you remove the upper intake cover:

BLOCK YOUR INTAKE PORTS IMMEDIATELY BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE!

Disconnect your battery, and relieve the fuel pressure from the system at the fuel rail (either with a vent on a fuel pressure gauge, or pressing in the valve pin holding a shop rag over it to catch any excess)

http://i16.Photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider1.jpg

Remove your air intake as a whole. (4 screws on filter, and twist screw on top of throttle body)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider2.jpg

Disconnect the fuel supply and return lines at the firewall (16mm)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider3.jpg

Remove the 12mm bolt securing the lines to the bracket.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider4.jpg

Remove the two 8mm nuts securing the fuel lines to the fuel meter body. (This is what I dropped into the intake, and they're NOT magnetic!)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider5.jpg

Remove the four 10mm bolts securing the throttle cable brackets.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider6.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider7.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider8.jpg

Remove the throttle cable and cruise control cable. The cruise cable will pop off backwards, but you'll need to relieve the tension and take the throttle cable bullet off to disconnect it.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider9.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider10.jpg

Disconnect all electrical connections (including the main fuel spider connection), and using a DEEPWELL 10mm socket, remove all 10 bolts securing the upper intake cover. Gently guide the fuel meter body back out of the cover, and remove the cover.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider11.jpg

You now have access to the fuel spider. Using a flat screwdriver, gently pry the tabs of the fuel meter from the bracket securing it. Pinch the injector tabs and remove the poppets from their holes.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider12.jpg

Inspect the fuel spider thoroughly for leaks. If it appears as though the injectors are leaking from underneath the fuel meter body, you can remove them individually.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider14.jpg

Remove the two 8mm bolts securing the metal bracket underneath the fuel meter body and set aside.

Using a small screwdriver and needle nose pliers, gently pry the plastic cap from the fuel meter body that secures the injector. Again VERY GENTLY, taking care not to damage the plastic injector line, pull the injector from the body using the the needlenose pliers. You may need to use a small dull screwdriver from the inside to help push the injector out.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider15.jpg

With the injector free, you can inspect the two orings on each.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider16.jpg

Here you see the Oring kit for the fuel spider which includes all o-rings on the spider, as well as the metal bracket and nuts that brace the injectors into the body. This seal kit is: GM # 17113205

Remove the Plastic retaining caps, and Orings. Be sure to use a slight coat of Oring grease when reinstalling them. Replace all Orings on the fuel meter body in the same manner. Now would be the time to replace the regulator if necessary. It's approx. $90 from GM.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider17.jpg

Before reinstalling the spider, carefully inspect the two Orings on the fuel supply and return lines...replace if needed. You may also choose to replace the upper intake cover gasket at this time. It comes in a set with the Upper Intake Gasket, Throttle Body Gasket, and Fuel Meter Body Oring (seen in orange). This Gasket kit runs around $30, and is GM#17113215.

Installation is reverse of removal.

1995 Chevrolet Blazer CPI

As far as mechanics go, or anybody who gets paid to talk to you will say you have to replace the entire spider injection which runs about $200+ on eBay and $300+ from your local autoparts store. There is an updated version of the spider for around $400 but if your situation is like anything like mine (single leaking injector causing a cylinder misfire) the $60 dollar option definitely seems the best. So here you go, btw I did snag the write up off some site I had in my favorites but everything looks right.

The most important thing to remember is you need to immediately block your intake ports firmly with shop rags. If not, you may learn the hard way...as I did....that you can easily lose a part or tool inside and find yourself removing the lower intake as well....with much aggrevation, and time wasted.

I can't say it enough! It takes 5 seconds to be safe.

As soon as you remove the upper intake cover:

BLOCK YOUR INTAKE PORTS IMMEDIATELY BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE!

Disconnect your battery, and relieve the fuel pressure from the system at the fuel rail (either with a vent on a fuel pressure gauge, or pressing in the valve pin holding a shop rag over it to catch any excess)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider1.jpg

Remove your air intake as a whole. (4 screws on filter, and twist screw on top of throttle body)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider2.jpg

Disconnect the fuel supply and return lines at the firewall (16mm)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider3.jpg

Remove the 12mm bolt securing the lines to the bracket.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider4.jpg

Remove the two 8mm nuts securing the fuel lines to the fuel meter body. (This is what I dropped into the intake, and they're NOT magnetic!)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider5.jpg

Remove the four 10mm bolts securing the throttle cable brackets.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider6.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider7.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider8.jpg

Remove the throttle cable and cruise control cable. The cruise cable will pop off backwards, but you'll need to relieve the tension and take the throttle cable bullet off to disconnect it.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider9.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider10.jpg

Disconnect all electrical connections (including the main fuel spider connection), and using a DEEPWELL 10mm socket, remove all 10 bolts securing the upper intake cover. Gently guide the fuel meter body back out of the cover, and remove the cover.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider11.jpg

You now have access to the fuel spider. Using a flat screwdriver, gently pry the tabs of the fuel meter from the bracket securing it. Pinch the injector tabs and remove the poppets from their holes.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider12.jpg

Inspect the fuel spider thoroughly for leaks. If it appears as though the injectors are leaking from underneath the fuel meter body, you can remove them individually.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider14.jpg

Remove the two 8mm bolts securing the metal bracket underneath the fuel meter body and set aside.

Using a small screwdriver and needle nose pliers, gently pry the plastic cap from the fuel meter body that secures the injector. Again VERY GENTLY, taking care not to damage the plastic injector line, pull the injector from the body using the the needlenose pliers. You may need to use a small dull screwdriver from the inside to help push the injector out.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider15.jpg

With the injector free, you can inspect the two orings on each.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider16.jpg

Here you see the Oring kit for the fuel spider which includes all o-rings on the spider, as well as the metal bracket and nuts that brace the injectors into the body. This seal kit is: GM # 17113205

Remove the Plastic retaining caps, and Orings. Be sure to use a slight coat of Oring grease when reinstalling them. Replace all Orings on the fuel meter body in the same manner. Now would be the time to replace the regulator if necessary. It's approx. $90 from GM.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/fuelspider17.jpg

Before reinstalling the spider, carefully inspect the two Orings on the fuel supply and return lines...replace if needed. You may also choose to replace the upper intake cover gasket at this time. It comes in a set with the Upper Intake Gasket, Throttle Body Gasket, and Fuel Meter Body Oring (seen in orange). This Gasket kit runs around $30, and is GM#17113215.

Installation is reverse of removal.