Start by removing the plastic cover over the engine (I just leave mine off). On the passenger side, remove the intake tube and the resonator. Follow the wires until you see them go underneath a cover attached to the valve cover by 4 bolts. Remove that, and there are the plugs. You will need a 10" extention to get to them, as they're deep in there. On the driver side, you'll see some electronics in your way and possibly the PCV hose. Just remove that, remove the cover again, and there are the other 4.
In addition to the above, I recommend getting one of those metal rods with the magnetic tip, so you will have an easier time extracting the plugs from the plug-wells once you unscrew them. They are available at auto parts stores for around $2.00.
I highly recommend the use of anti-seize compound for the plug threads. The threads on the Mark VIII's aluminum heads aren't difficult to strip, and a seized plug will make that more likely to happen.
Use dielectric grease on the wire-end of the spark-plug, to protect the ends of your spark-plug wires.
Finally, when it's time to install and tighten the plugs, be mindful that they don't need to be in real tight, just snug. Turn them till they seat in the head, then give them an additional 1/16 rotation. DO NOT GIVE THEM A HE-MAN TWIST or you'll be sorry. -JMiles_T
According to one of Fords websites : For a 1973 Lincoln Mark IV , 7.5 liter / 460 cubic inch V8 engine : ( the spark plugs are gapped at .035 inch )
I was looking at one of the Ford websites and it shows : For a ( 1978 ) Lincoln Mark V , 7.5 litre / 460 cubic inch ( the spark plugs are gapped at .050 inch )
wrong plugs or maybe the gaps are closed, make sure you didnt mix up wire firing order check for unplugged wires or sensors you may have bumped. did car run before the change?
AWSF-32C is the stock plugs
email me i have one that the spark plugs are in place and order you need the fireing order vett1157 yahoo i can wright it down and send it out
Mark and remove plug wires. Remove spark plugs and install new plugs. Reattach plug wire to correct plug.
If you mean in the valleys when you look down and there is oil around the spark plugs then it's the o rings in the valve covers that need replacing. Removing the passenger cover isn't too bad but the driver's side is a pain.
I used Autolite spark plugs in my Mark VII. Autolite is the retail version of the factory Ford part. Same as ACDelco and GM. Im sure you've seen tons of different plugs out there and some of them are great I like at bosch platinum plugs but they are a waist of money unless 1) your car came with platinum plugs 2) You have or are planning ignition system upgrades. But for a stock car use factory plugs. Also make sure the plugs are gapped correctly. Even pre-gapped plugs, Ive seen pre gapped plugs almost .015 off the gap.
Open the trunk, remove the carpet lining and unscrew the black plugs and remove the burt out bulb.
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30,000 miles is recommended for spark plug replacement on all Chrysler/Jeep vehicles, not just the Jeep Liberty. Not only are plugs recommended at 30,000 miles, shock absorbers are recommended as well. As a mechanic for the Chrysler/Jeep Corp., i can say with confidence that it is not entirely necessary to change plugs and shocks at the 30k mile mark. Basically, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" (however, i do recommend at least checking the plugs at 30,000 miles)
The Mark Vlll transmissions will fit from 93-95 without re-pinning the electrical plugs.