"READ ENTIRE REPLY BEFORE YOU GO TO GET YOUR PARTS AND TOOLS" I am a very expierenced general moters tech and after you read this reply you should feel pretty confident about doing this repair... 1st, You have to remove the fuel tank from the vehicle i hope you're real low on fuel because its a pain and dangerous when the tank is full to remove the fuel tank.....raise the rear of the vehicle and support with jack stands... the vehicle must be raised pretty high to have the needed clearance for the tank to clear the vehicle....remove the necessary lines electrical connections and move aside noting where they came off from... using "white out" or a white paint marker you can put a small dot on each end of a connection to ease the install process 1 dot on one side 1 dot on the other, 2-dots 2-dots etc..remove the two (2) 15mm headed bolts from the tank straps and move the straps aside..then carefully lower the tank and pull outward from the vehicle..you can use a floor jack to remove the tank but i recommend a piece of 1/2" 3/4" cdx plywood be used between the tank and the jacks lifting point to protect the tank from damage... ok, once the tank is removed and on the ground/floor on the top of the tank you'll find a "ring" its a "compression" type that turns using a wood or rubber mallet and a solid instrument "preferbly not metal" to tap on the tabs in a counter clockwise direction on the ring to remove the ring.....As a professional tech I use a flat head screw driver covering the metal tip with a shop towel to remove the ring but I urge caution to you if you will use this method to remove and install the ring as any sparks can send ya across the country on a bad explosive trip.... Now... If you're not flying through the air at this point and have the ring off, carefully remove the float/pump assembly and follow the instructions that come with the new pump..... it's pretty easy to follow..I could spell it out for ya but like I said, the instructions are easy to follow "I did my first in tank pump at age 13, so no fears just take your time"...DID YOU FORGET TO BUY A "SOCK" ?...in the business, that's what we refer to as the in tank pump filter that is at the bottom of the pump .. Yes, a "Sock"... it looks like a sock so that's why we call it that... BUY ONE, IT DOSEN't COME WITH THE NEW PUMP... The parts supplier should have offered to sell you the"sock" so you should have it... If not go and get the "sock" also know as a strainer, Just take the old one off and take it with ya.... 90% of the time if you don't buy the "sock" at the time of the pump purchase the chain stores or your Chevrolet dealer WILL NOT issue ANY warranty on the pump... and that's a bummer if it fails at a cost of anywhere between $35 and $200usd bucks for that pump, an $8-$15usd "sock" is the only way to go.....so anyway, re-install the float/pump assembly,with the "SOCK", re-install the tank" make sure all of the hoses usually 3 of them 1 pressure 1 return and 1 vapor.... make sure all of the wiring connections are plugged in and tight and not touching the exhaust pipe or the suspension ie: shocks etc...***NOTE*** I always replace the main Fuel Filter as well when I replace the in tank fuel pump.. They cost about $5-$6 and everyone carries them... the main fuel filter is located near the fuel tank and towards the front of the vehicle, almost directly under the rear seat/floor it's a round cylinder about 2 1/2 inches in diameter and 3 1/2- 4 inches long with fittings on the hoses... the hoses are removed using a 5/8 inch wrench on the line fittings and a 3/4 inch wrench on the filter side... I always try to use a "5/8 inch line wrench" on the lines due to how easy a standard "open end wrench" can strip the fitting and then you're replacing the fuel supply lines too... If you don't have a "5/8 line wrench" you can buy a set of craftsman's at sears for around $30 they also make a metric set as well... the fuel filter side is usually ok to hold with a standard open end wrench un less the filter has never been replaced or you live or the vehicle has been in an area of alot of mud, snow removal salts,dust or anything that could cause the fittings to become frozen..... in 16 years I have had a couple of tough to get loose filters on the "GM" vehicles so just use caution in this area of maintenance on your vehicle .... note the arrow on the filter that says "FLOW" it's important to get the flow going towards the engine, or the vehicle may not start or will perform poorly if you cant see the arrow on it the "flow" line is the one that curves around and heads towards the engine, you should find the arrow on the new one just fine....
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