I just accomplished this task today! I would agree if you have a lot of extra cash and don't mind giving it away you could have someone else do it. I did it in a couple of hours. If I had to do it again it would be much faster. I recommend in this order. Remove wiper arm bolts and gently tap bolt with large screw driver underneath applying little pressure. Remove the two torxs head screws holding the cover ends down and the four nuts along the front of tub cover. Lift up cover and unplug window washer supply tube, and two drain tubes under each side of tub. Unplug wiper motor under tub on drivers side) Then remove tub assembly (six bolts and four support brackets with nuts) 30 mins
#1 plug - removing alternator bracket (top bolt in intake, two in the side, and top alternator bolt), reach through and pull plug boot, then locate plug socket on the plug, then with a 1/4" socket and adapter remove plug (replace by with quality double platinum plug, highly recommend!)
#3 and #5 plug Remove auto transmission filler tube (remove outer nut and two ground wires then the double ended stud on driver side of the head, unplug large fuel injection connector, then gently twist and pull straight up. Next, remove the throttle cable plate, two small bolts and tuck out of the way. Lastly remove the intake manifold support bracket (one bold in drivers side of head and the other on the back side of intake) I recommend pulling #5 plug wire boot first and tuck back out of the way (closest to drivers side). This is a bit tough, but reach through and pull #3 plug wire boot and with plug socket and small extension locate on plug then snap socket wrench on and remove and replace #3 plug and boot. Lastly, remove #5 plug and replace plug and boot. Reinstall support bracket. Reinstall throttle cable plate. Reinstall auto trans filler tube and ground wires and plug in fuel injector plug.
Took me just over 2 hours total! Wish I had videoed it now. Would probably be a big help to many people. There are a lot of these van out there on the road.
Do what you want, but I wouldn't recommend getting up underneath it and trying to do it from back there isn't all the room people told me. #1 would be next to impossible to get from back. #3 & #5 only slightly easier but still tough. I recommend save the cash and the frustration and do it the way described above.AnswerTake it to the dealership!! With the amount of time it takes and the cost of parts I would've been better off paying the dealership and not bothering with the hassle.
After removing the intake manifold, alternator bracket, throttle body, electrical sensors, air filter box and all the hoses we were told that you could undo a motor mount and the engine would come forward to make it easier. But . . . I don't know if it works and I never will because I'm taking it to the dealer.
Good Luck.AnswerYou can reach the ones closest to the driver's side and remove with a flex link on the socket drive. For the last one you only need to unbolt the alternator bracket to get enough room to reach in from that side. Do use platinum plugs for long life, and a tapered gap checker so you don't ruin them. It isn't really that hard, but it is enough extra work that you don't want to do it again any sooner than absolutely necessary. This is also the time to change the wires. These engines will misbehave for bad plugs, bad wires, and for poor wire placement - unexplained hesitations, misfires, poor mileage. Use good parts and use extra care with the wire routing.
The front 3 plugs are removed in minutes naturally. It is the back three that are difficult. By driving the front tires on blocks you can slide underneath the minivan and reach the drivers side rear plug as well as the middle plug next to it. You may scratch your hands and arms a bit, but it can be done. The rear plug on the passengers side was the tough one for me. I moved the Alternator bracket, which you don't actually have to remove completely, but you can remove three bolts, then loosen the one directly to the alternator and push the bracket upwards out of the way. Even with this opening the difficulty I had was having enough room to move a socket wrench enough to loosen the plug. What finally worked was a compressed air spark plug removal tool. If you can buy or rent one if these, it will make the job much simpler.
I forgot to add that the motor in this 94 Dodge Grand Caravan ES is a 3.3L
my van will crank, but won't start, had spark plugs change
champion plugs for the part # call your dealer
Same way as the 01 Dodge grand caravan listed below, be really thin or remove the intake manifold....Im having the same issues it's not fun trust me.
On all sides of the engine block
On all sides of the engine block
The 3 rear plugs are very easy to change once the van is on a lift and you are underneath the van. The plugs are completely visible and accessible from underneath the van.
I would replace the spark plugs after 50K, the wires and plugs again at 100K.
Remove the alternator. The rest will then be obvious.
No, it is possible to replace them in vehicle.
you have to either remove the intake manifold or be really really really thin. also removing the cowling where the wipers and motor assy are will help