Since this procedure involves removing the brake drum, you may wish to consider wearing a face mask of some sort to avoid breathing in brake dust which is none too good for you! You should also buy a spray can of brake cleaner at a local hardware or auto parts store.
Chock the front wheels to prevent the car moving.
Release the hand brake and select neutral.
Jack up a rear corner or whole rear end of the car and place secure supports such as axles stands underneath. Remove the road wheel in the usual manner.
The brake drum is exposed and theoretically will just pull off - there are no other fixings! In practise, it is often tricky to remove since the brake shoes may bind a little. Try wiggling it rather than banging it. Certainly don't use any hammering other than gentle taps with a rubber-faced hammer. The brake drum is made of cast iron and can easily be cracked.
On some models, there are two threaded holes in the drum roughly concentric with the wheel studs. These are designed specifically to help drum removal - you just find two bolts (8mm) or screws to screw into these holes and they push against the hub. Since this is the same size bolt used to remove the front brake rotor, you may want to buy a pair, label them and set them aside for brake work. Again, take care not to crack the drum. Only very light torque should be applied to these screws. Alternate between the two screws for best results.
If no success, then look behind the brake assembly so that you are looking at the back plate which the brake cylinder is mounted on. On some models, there is a little cover which can be removed to expose an adjuster. Turn the adjuster with the end of a small screwdriver in a kind of ratchet action. This will loosen the brake shoes away from the drum provided you move it in the right direction. So if it tightens, try the other direction! Remember to replace the cover afterwards. Now the drum should come away and you can inspect the shoes for wear. The lining thickness starts at a nominal 4.1mm (0.161 inches) and the lower limit for service is 1.5mm (0.059 inches).
It's a good idea to clean out all the brake dust (you are wearing that face mask, aren't you). It's best to use a spray can of brake cleaner, spraying all parts of the brakes, including the inside of the drum. That old vacuum cleaner that you kept when you bought a new one can be used for this job, making sure the exhaust is pointed outside away from you. Also check that the hand-brake and adjuster mechanisms are operating freely. Finally give a good look at the brake cylinder to check for any signs of leakage of brake fluid. If the outer dust seals are cracked, it's worth buying new ones provided that the pistons are still moving freely and there is no leak. The new seals will prevent you having to replace the entire cylinders so soon.
Finally, check the interior of the drums. There should not be any serious scoring. If you have a good internal caliper guage then measure the internal diameter of the drum on the wear surfaces. The high limit for service is 230.6mm (9.08 inches). Since it started life at 228.6mm (9 inches), not a lot of wear is permitted. Check in several places in case there is ovality (which can sometimes be detected by slight jerkiness when braking very gently at very low speeds on a smooth surface or by some types of brake judder).
When you have replaced the drum and wheel, operate the handbrake repeatedly to activate the auto adjustment. Keep doing it until no further change is detected in the position that the handbrake comes up to. This may be only one or two pulls if you didn't have to adjust anything when removing the drum to many tens of pulls if you backed off the whole adjuster (which you have to do if you fit new shoes, for instance.)
Test the service brake (foot brake) for the first time whilst the car is stationary with the engine running. Make sure there is the normal "feel" to the pedal. In other words, that it comes up firm and well off the floor! If not, don't drive until you have found the problem.
Finally, make a cautious test drive well way from traffic and other hazards if you can. This answer was written using UK terminology. Apologies if this causes any confusion for US readers!
If you have no spark on the 1991 Subaru Legacy, you should check the spark plugs and spark plug wires for replacement. You should also check the battery and ignition for replacement.
Well, its impossible to check the rear brake drum shoe for wear because..........they don't have them. Your car has disk brakes, not shoes. You should not work on your car if you have NO idea what your talking about. GOT IT! Take the car to a shop where even a 16 year old can help you!
Check the brake fluid level. It may be low. Low brake fluid level is an indication the brakes need attention. Have a trusted mechanic check the brakes soon. Good brakes are a number one priority.
You have a problem with the brakes, have a mechanic check it out soon before you have no brakes.
Check for spark Check for fuel
Check this site for information: http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/
Check your thermometer and if that's not it...head gaskets.
I would check rear brakes that is a good sign that they are wore out I would check rear brakes first sign of worn out brake is that the E-brake doesn't hold
Check the 1991 Legacy for a stuck thermostat. Check to make sure that the water pump is working properly.
Your brake fluid is how the brake system converts mechanical force of your foot on the brake pedal, into hydraulic force that applies your brakes. Without fluid, your hydraulic brakes will not function.
check brake fluid level under hood probaly low
Check the brake fluid reservoir, it may be low on brake fluid indicating it is time to have the brakes inspected.
check the library at legacycentral.org
Brake lights? Check brake light switch for adjustment or replacement
Check the brake light fuse first. Then check for a bad brake light switch at the brake pedal.
If the rear brakes are drum brakes remove the wheel slide the drum off and check brake lining if brake lining is good then at the bottom of the brake assembly turn the adjuster wheel out. Check by putting drum on and spinning the drum until it spin 1 to 1 1/2 times around. If the car has rear disc brakes check brake pads probably needs to be replaced
Check the brake fluid...
check this link, it did helped me get info on my 97 subaru outback. http://hp.auto.ru/Subaru%20Legacy/1997/ cheers!
First off check ur brakes in front but with e-brake causing it to glow brighter then most likely check the back brakes. ANSWER Check your brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder in your engine compartment . The brake light comes on when your brake fluid level is low , or your emergency brake is on.
Spongy brakes are usually an indication that there is air in the brake lines. It is also possible the brake fluid is low, so check that first.
if the vehicle has a low brake pedal, check for brake fluid leaks, or out of adjustment brakes. if it is just low on fluid, check for worn out brake linings.
Check that the hand brake is not applied. Check the conditions of your brakes like the drums check if there any grooves or are hot to the touch. If you feel any grooves replaces brakes and lathe the drums or replace the drums aswell.
check fluid level
Check the fuses for your brakes.
Light is usually comes on, when there is a problem with pressure in brake lines. Inspect the brake fluid level, and check for leaks.