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You have to remove the tie rod. If you don't want to pull the ball joint, loosen the adjustment bar and be sure to mark it well. You will have to get it real close to original adjustment. If you are not sure, have it checked very soon for alignment. Remove the brake caliper. Be careful of the sensor wire if you have one. Remove the 36mm nut on the axle. A slight hit wit a dead blow hammer should free the axle. If you don't have a dead blow hammer a small sledge hammer and a piece of would will do. I replaced both, so the top ball joint was already free. Pull the cotter pin on the bottom ball joint and remove the nut. To free the ball joint, use a "pickle fork" It is a tapered tool you can find at most auto shops like Auto Zone or Checker/O'rieley auto parts. They can tell you how it works. Once every thing is loose, remove the 4 bolts holding the lower ball joint (if they are rivets, you need to grind or drill them out. Be careful not to damage the original hole. The new ball joints normally have all the hardware. Be shure to tighten all nuts to factory specifications. Don't forget to add grease as the new ball joints are dry. You may have a problem with the Zerk fitting. I bought a straight Zerk fitting that was a little longer. You should to have it aligned and checked after ball joint replacement.

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Q: How do you get the lower ball joint off of a 96 jimmy It appears you may have to pull the spindle of of the axle?
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