How do you install a clutch on a 1991 geo storm gsi?

Answer 1

Heres a list of step by step instructions. Hope this helps


Tools: 12mm, 14mm, 17mm deep well 6 or 12 point sockets various metric wrenches of the same size. It is more convienent to have these in 1/2 and 3/8 drive.
Impact Tools are a plus (USE CAUTION AND WEAR PROTECTIVE GEAR!)
2 floor jacks
A trustworthy friend..

Steps:
1. Engage the parking brake
2. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels
3. Loosen the front lug nuts slightly then raise the vehicle with a floor jack about 14" lifting under the front cross-member.
4. Place jackstands under both the passenger and driver side of the Storm.
5. Lower the car and check to make sure your stands are secure. Place the jack under the transmission using a small 4x6 block of wood and just lift it enough to snug.
6. Remove the front wheels
7. Remove the throttle body air supply tube, and air filter by unlatching the air box and using a flat screwdriver at the throttle assembly.
8. Remove the Battery, then the two bolts retaining the coil to the battery tray. Disconnect the coil wire. (set the battery on a work bench, do not sit the battery on the ground!)
9. Disconnect the shift links from the shifter assembly. Make sure to remove the shims securing them to the retaining bracket. Make sure you remove the ground wire attached to the transmission, and the two red wires for the reverse lights below the battery tray.
10.Disconnect the clutch cable and rest it atop the intake manifold.
11.Disconnect the speedometer cable from underneath the vehicle,it should only be hand tight and should not require a tool to remove it.
12.Remove the brake caliper bracket as one assembly with a 17mm. Restrain the caliper to the coil spring with a heavy duty zip tie. (Do NOT let the caliper hang from the brake line.

*** Important -- Remove the Transmission Fluid carefully at this point. When you yank out the axle shaft, there would be tons of fluid dropping on your shop floor.

13.From the driver-side remove the two 17mm bolts retaining the strut to the spindle.
14.Instead of removing the bottom bolt securing the a-frame to the spindle remove the two 17mm bolts at the bottom that holds the entire assembly.
15.Remove the spindle and axle shaft as one whole unit, and setit aside. Place all the bolts and nuts inside of the jackstand base.
16.Remove the two 17mm bolts attaching the a-frame to the spindle (the bottom bolts) on the passenger side.
17.From underneath remove the two 14mm bolts attaching the axle shaft carrier bearing from the engine block.
18.Gently pry the passenger side axle-shaft out of the transmission housing. Pulling from the spindle, move the assembly outward and away from the transmission.
19.Remove the large tranny mounting bolt at the front of the vehicle.(Will need 17mm wrench for this to clear manifold)
20.Remove the front two bolts retaining the crossmember under the radiator.
21.Remove the two back crossmember bolts, then remove the large tranny mount bolt in back.
22.Twist the crossmember so that the front is pointing at the passenger side and then twist it so the bottom side faces the passenger side. Lower it out, then set it aside. (No..I don't know what that large round weight is mounted on the crossmember....).
23.Remove the three 14mm bolts holding the transmission to the mount underneath the battery tray. Then remove the large bolt retaining the mount to the body. Set the mount aside.
24.Now it's time to remove all of the transmission bolts that attach the tranny bellhousing to the engine. It is safer to start at the bottom and get these out first. Then get all of the top bolts leaving one secured.
25.This will require that friend I mentioned earlier, the one standing around yapping about his car while you were working.
26.Use the other floor jack with a 4x6 block of wood and snug it underneath the oil pan.
27.Snug the jack under the gearbox part of the transmission and then remove the top bolt holding the transmission in. From underneath your friend should have a good hold on the transmission and all of the weight should be on the jack.
28.Gently pull the transmission away from the engine and give it a slight jerk if it is binded up. At this point you should see the separating of the transmission and engine from the top. It is safe to lower the jack slowly because the mainshaft is short enough to clear. DO NOT USE THE CLUTCH LEVER TO HOLD THE TRANSMISSION. (unless you want to find out where your throw out bearing landed..)
29.Communication is key, make sure your friend knows what you are doing when you are doing it. Once you have the transmission out place it aside.
30.Remove the bolts retaining the pressure place to the flywheel and place the clutch disk aside. Check the pressure plate for scoring or deep groves. (It is always a good idea to have the flywheel resurfaced at a machine shop if installing a new clutch! $35-$40 is worth having to do this again 3 months later!)
31.Following the manufacturers directions place the new clutch disk against the flywheel using a clutch alignment tool. With the tool still attached place the (hopefully new) pressure plate against it and "SNUG" all of the bolts in. Make sure it is centered and remove the tool then torque the pressure plate to 17 lbs.
32.Clean the inside of the bellhousing with contact cleaner, brake cleaner, or carb cleaner and replace the throw-out bearing and retaining spring. Take carefull note of how the spring is mounted. If you put this in upside down it WILL come off. Lube the shaft, bearing, fork and fork spring with synthetic or standard grease.

Installation of the transmission is the reverse of removal. To ensure that the transmission sits flush against the engine use a 1/2 drive socket wrench and socket to turn the engine over by the harmonic balancer bolt. This will turn the splines on the clutch so they line up with the mainshaft splines on the transmission.