Check out this site: www.twinturbo.net There you will find all the info you need and then some. From that site, there is a link to twinturboz's of Dallas. You will find a complete removal and installation guide with photos.
Also DO NOT FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS TO DRILL YOUR INTAKE. It's pointless and takes even more time to even get to your injectors. Your best bet is to Take the intake off by which it only took me about 30 minutes,
Remoe the coil pack plugs and injector plugs, TPS sensor plug and vac hoses on that black air crossover, IACV plug and whatever the other plug is next to it. Then remove the temp plug and temp plug next to it as well. Man thing is to allow the harness to be free from the intake
There's a crossover hose for the water and just cut that if it's as hard as a rock. take the plastic intake vac hoses off, take the center bolts off the intake, there are two bolts per side on the intake in the middle, remove those.
on the driver side back side of the intake there's a large 5/8th's hose that will stump you every time near the IACV, remove that however you can and repeat on the passenger side
THE INJECCTOR PLUG MIGHT HAVE METAL CLIPS SO REMOVE THOSE FIRST BEFORE LIFTING THE PLUG OUT.
There are two 10mm bolts on the bottom where the two metal rods connect the intake towards the front bottom side of the intake(Dont know that piece yet) remove those.
the intake should come off.
NOW there's two bolts per injector holding the injector down. I know from experience that they will be locked into place but can easliy be removed....
Get some vice grips and lock it down on the Philips head of the screw(Just enough to lock it down firmly, not he-man tight. and give it a little twist(No this will not ruin your bolt nor prevent you from install it back, this is the way I did it to prevent me from stripping the head it self.)
Repeat that for the other side of that injector and that's it, you should be able to pull it up.(Repeat this step for the other 5)
From there you should be able to see the other bolts that keep the fuel rail in place so you handle that.
The injectors are hard as hell to remove so be ready to use some muscle a little bit. I just pryed in different sections to remove them because it didn't matter if the the plastic was broke or not because they were all bad pretty much.
after remove the old beat down injectors, have a bit of wd40 or silky gas solution because you will be using that to lube up the holes to place the new injectors in.
BE SURE TO CLEAN THE HOLES FIRST.
Now grab a q-tip or your finger whatever and dip it into the wd40(I prefer) and just run your fingers around the lower and upper hole of that injector port and gentle place the injector in. Then go ahead and push down simoltanuously on each side of the injector to evenly place it down. Now go ahead and place that cap and the two bolts on it which will finish it down. Tighten it down little by little on each side.
Repeat that last step for the rest of them and them re-install and you have yourself a running car. Be sure all of your hoses are placed back.
TIP: i went ahead and remove that pointless black piping for the fuel and ran an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator to the inlet and a hose back to the return line. That black piece is just used for fuel dampening and regulating which I find that is ok but pointless.
Besides the fuel was dampened and then it was regulated... CRAZY!!!! So in place where the inlet side goes, just install a jdm adjustable regulator and the outlet just straight hose it back to the return hose and leave it at that.
From that air crossover piping on the intake, just cap the vac ports off. I'm running 93 in mine as that's what the car calls for so don't go believing cheap gas it what is needs. The timing is so far advanced and your coils are good. If you have to use cheap gas, back off your CAS a bit
When inserting the injectors into place, DO NOT use WD40. Please use either grease or vaseline. Just dabb it on all over the rubber seals.
Using WD40 could work, but unfortunately you will still run the risk of pinching the lower seal when installing the injectors. This will cause that cylinder to flood up when the engine gets turned on. You would then have to pull everything back out and replace the lower seal on the injector.
Good answer though.
Any car with spark plugs will have cleanable fuel injectors, so yes.
The fuel filter on a 2007 Nissan Quest is in the fuel tank and is part of the fuel pump. $300 to $400 item to change out.
Fuel filter, fuel pump, or pressure bypass/relief valve is not providing the correct, enough fuel pressure at the injectors.
you cant safely. use shell gasoline or similar. DO NOT USE INJECTOR CLEANER!!! it will destroy your injectors to the tune of 100-300 dollars a piece.
about 300 miles
In the fuel tank, as well as the fuel gauge sending unit. The tank must be removed to access the fuel pump.
I would say this is a rip off. I found a web sit where you can get these injectors for $39.99 each and they have a 1 year warrenty! I think you should check them out, you could save some big $$$$$ Here is the name of the web site www.fuelinjectors.citymaker.com good luck!
......read this link. This guy really knows our cars [www.az-zbum.com]
All 300 of it. This is a question without a better answer. You need to state a better question, such as -- how much extra horsepower can I gain by installing larger injectors? The answer to this one is -- none, if this is the only modification.
If this engine is fuel injected, there is a strong possibility that the fuel injectors have become plugged by the fine sediment that accumulates in the bottom of a gas tank. Running a fuel injected motor out of gas can be a very expensive mistake, as the injectors have to be removed by a mechanic and cleaned if they have become fouled. A reputable garage will charge 250 to 300 dollars to perform this procedure.
You can find the 1987 Nissan 300 your pump relay switch in the fuse box. The fuel pump relay switch will be at the top of the third column.
running in the same problem. i come to conclusion its not EGR fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump. as the fuel pressure stays the same when this happens. it either has to be faulty injectors or ignition.
In general the fuel consumption is 20% less than a petrol bakkie. With the Nissan NP 300 Bakkie the fuel consumption is about 1litre for 10 kilometres when unladen and about 1 litre for8 Kilometres when laden.
The A 330-300 holds 97,530 litres of fuel.
intake, exhaust, fuel pump, and injectors there a number of bolt ons and theres always turbos and superchargers. http://www.lextasy.com/IS300_intakes_ctg.htm ----
One might purchase a Nissan 300 ZX from online at Gum Tree, Webcrawler, Ebay, Auototrader, Edmunds, Amason and Zapmeta. One can purchase a Nissan 300ZX from local car dealers or from Nissan .
on the low pressure side of the fuel injection there is a rubber hose with a cloth cover that runs between the injectors, this is where you are most likely getting the leak and smell of diesel.
That's ridiculously low. Is your parking brake stuck on? I have an '01 Jetta VR6 (4-spd auto) and I get about 300+ miles per tank (all highway). Tank is 14 gallons. Using premium gas. Take a look at the fuel injectors, fuel filter and/or fuel line.
The 2011 Chrysler 300 runs on flex-fuel (FFV).
The 2013 Chrysler 300 runs on flex-fuel (FFV).
The 2012 Chrysler 300 runs on flex-fuel (FFV).
You will need at least $300 to replace a radiator in Nissan Altima.
my Lexus rx300 misfired as well and i took it to the mechanic and it was the fuel injectors that where dirty because of bad gas
The 2014 Chrysler 300 runs on flex-fuel (unleaded/E85).