This gate uses two solenoids to pull the latches open, one per side. GM uses a really cheezy little clip to make sure the rod that unlatches the hatch stays attached to the solenoid. Take the screws out of the trim on the inside of the hatch and pull it as far out on the bottom as you can without breaking something. There should be an opening on either side that you can get your fingers in and grab the rod. Pull it toward the center and the latch will open. After the hatch is open you can finish taking the plastic trim off and replace that miserable little clip. Then it's just a matter of getting the trim back on and you are done.
EDIT: If you prefer an easier method, push the side that will partially open, locking it back completely. Then retry opening.
Exactly what I needed to tackle this problem; thanks! I should point out that to get the trim off the upper door requires removal of the inside door handle. The handle has clips that cover to 10mm bolts. After removal of the handle and the above mentioned screws,
prior that baby up as described. Note that in addition to screws, there are approximately four spring clips along the bottom of the trim, one up each side and three at the top.
Slide a putty knife between the trim and vehicle to pinch the springs and help release the trim.
The culprit clip was previously described as "cheezy'; well stated! I chose not to replace the clip, but instead purchased a small 'hitch clip' that simply snapped onto the end of the rod and keeps it in position. Cost: 39 cents plus tax. I did take some photos of the opening and replacement for future reference. If I can figure out how to post to this question, the photos will appear shortly. Hope you already have door conquered, but
thanks for helping me with mine.
Photos, I hope:
http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1828557799#!/album.php?aid=22484&id=1828557799&ref=mf
what are the wires for on the rear hatch door hydraulic pumps
Answer: About an 80% probability that one or the other of the lifts have failed. Most lifts use a nitrogen-charged system that uses pressure to help lift the door, and are balanced to the weight of the door. Replacement of one or both of these struts are required in order to return the door to proper operation.
My 98 astro did this exact thing. I traced it to -believe it or not- the key switch on the rear hatch.
Also there doesn't seem to be enough power going to the back hatch release or the wiper to operate. Had at one time the whole dash went out then came back while idling. Van is a 93.
You have to power it up with manure which you have to get from the farmer near the secret hatch to Mordred's Hideout
Yes, it is the handle on the outside of the hatch.
** On the dutch door type ;glass hatch two lower doors swing out ** there are four screws one at each corner of the door panel and gives you access to the door interior and there is a plate covering the lock and it is much fun to fix it.. Al alco716@verizon.net
Hatch - 2010 was released on: USA: April 2010
There are no sewers in Arturus. The locked hatch is Mordred's secret underground lab. (see related question for the key)
Go to the hay bales and push them apart. The key opens the hatch to Mordred's underground laboratory.
It is on the lift support shocks on the rear window hatch. Each side has one.
The key doesn't go to the saucer. It goes to Mordred's secret laboratory. (see related question)