All voltage reading are usually read with a volt meter. This volt meter can be a hand held unit like electricians use.
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as an electrician i would first check the main breaker with a rated voltage tester for voltage i would first ckeck the meter side by placing one tester lead on one of incoming phases or wire and place second lead on the other phase or other wire. i should read 240, or 230, or 220 volts depending on where the taps are in the transformer. if not call the power company. if it does read any of them voltages i would then check the load side of the main breaker by putting my leads on one breaker and the one right below it generally every other breaker is a different phase again i should read 240 volts or close. if not the main breaker may be bad. if you know what breaker or circuit its on you could test it by placing one lead on the screw where the wire is and the other on the neutral or ground bar here you should read 120 volts or close if not breaker is bad. it maybe as easy as tightening the screw or screws so shut the breaker off first and then tighten.
The reason 277v leg to leg does not measure 554 volts is each phase of the system is 120 degrees out of phase with each other and there fore will not read 554v leg to leg but 480v lag to leg. If you take 277 times the square root of 3 it will equal 480. The meters measure Root Mean Square or rms voltages and are designed to take this into their readings.
You are probably measuring between the one leg of the 240 volts and the neutral or the ground pin connection. Take the measurement from the two outside blade holes on the receptacle. There the reading should be 230 to 240 volts. Between either of the outside blade holes and the neutral or ground you should read around 120 volts.
A DC ammeter will read zero
Single phase or three phase? 120/208 would be measured hot to ground for 120 and hot to hot (phase to phase) for the 208 reading. Any hot to ground will read 120 and any two phases together will read 208.
Yes. Circuits in a home are 120 volts but people tend to call them 110 volt circuits. The 120 volts you read on the appliance is the maximum voltage the appliance can handle. The actual voltage you will read at any outlet will range from 110 to 120 volts.
You can pull 12 volts off of any single battery in the circuit. The output from each battery never changes, it's always 12 volts. Those batteries are wired together in SERIES to increase the final output voltage of the entire circuit to 48 volts. To demonstrate this, place a voltmeter across the positive and negative terminal of any battery in the system. It will read 12 volts, regardless of which battery you're measuring across. Now place the voltmeter from the positive terminal on one battery and the negative terminal on a different battery. Depending on how many batteries you're measuring across, it will read 24, 36 or 48 volts. Practical application - connect your 12 volt device from the positive terminal to the negative terminal on a single battery.
As this varies for different Apple devices, no single answer can be given. Read the labeling as it will tell the actual voltage.
I assume you have a 30 amp two pole 220 volts breaker. Check the voltage source. If the source voltage is 220V, but out let voltage is 120 then the breaker must be faulty, a high resistance or partial open circuit could have caused the reduced voltage at the breaker outlet.
A fully charged car battery will read 12.6 volts, 75% charge will read 12.4 volts, 50% charge will read 12.2 volts, and a 25% charged battery will read 12.0 volts with the engine not running. With the engine running it will read 13.5 to 15.5 volts.
The typical answer is current is zero when there is a break in the circuit. It depends on the complexity of the circuit, there may be other paths for the current to flow, such that if there is a break in one part of the circuit, the rest of the circuit still has current flow (but a different value than designed). If you are reading voltage, and there is a break then that will change, also depending on the complexity. If it is a single loop, and you're reading voltage before the break, your voltmeter will read the same voltage as the voltage source, since there is no current flowing between any resistors between the meter and the source. If you're reading voltage after the break then the meter will read zero (0) volts.
Yes, a battery with only a 25% charge will read 12 volts. A fully charged battery will read 12.6 volts.
That is all it is suppose to read with the engine not running. With the engine running it should read 13.5-16 volts. If it does not the alternator is defective. A charged battery which is not being discharged will read 12.6 ~ 12.8 volts, depending on ambient temperature. This is known as the open circuit voltage. A battery with an open circuit voltage of only 12.12 volts is effectively 50% discharged (depending on temperature). If the battery is new, it will have discharged over time because it was not being used. I would recommend an overnight charge before puting it into service. With the engine running at around 1500 ~ 2000 rpm, you should expect a charging voltage of around 14.2 volts.
Yes, the 130 volts you read on the bulb is just the maximum it will handle. It will work perfectly in a 120 volt circuit.
Yes. A fully charge battery will read 12.6 volts with engine not running. A 75% charged battery will read 12.4 volts. At 50% charge, it will read 12.2 volts. At a 25% charge it will read 12 volts, but that will not be enough to even start the engine in most cases and unless the alternator is bad the battery is defective. With the engine running you should read 13.5 to 15.5 volts at the battery. Any less and the alternator is defective.
This small discrepancy in voltages is of no concern. Depending on where in the circuit and from which side of the bus bars in the distribution panel the reading was taken will account for the difference. Your voltage is a little high but the utility company's transformer may be right outside your home and that will account for the high voltage. This is done so as to keep the voltage at a nominal value for the people that are connected to the same circuit down the street.