How do you remove the alternator from a 2002 Ford Focus with the Zetec DOHC engine?

Answer 1

NOTE: partial answer - I'll be back to finish up after work...Which engine do you have?

There are 2 primary engines used in the Focus

• 2.0 SPI - Split port injection - This is a single overhead cam engine, the SPI is prominent on the valve cover.

  On the SPI engine, the alternator is in the FRONT of the engine

  When reading instructions for the alternator exchange, and they mention the radiator cooling fans: these are for the SPI engine

• 2.0 ZETEC / DOHC - This engine has a black valve cover and the spark plugs go straight down the center of the top.

  The alternator is on the top backside / windshield side of the engine.

How to get the bugger OUT

• Remove the negative battery post
• Get he coolant overflow tank outta the way:
  • Remove the coolant overflow tank mounting bolt (10mm)
  • Unclip the backside of the overflow tank from it mount
  • Unclip the little black clips that position the hoses - 1 big one and 2 little ones
  • Swing the tank around to the front of the engine
• Move the Power Steering reservoir:
  • The reservoir has 3 rubber studs on the backside - simple wiggle the reservoir upwards to release from the holes
  • Swing it & the hoses around to the front and clear from the work area
• Black grounding wire - goes from the engine to the strut tower. Not only did I remove it, but bent the little platform it mounts to on the strut tower downwards. That provides just a wee-bit more room
• Wire harness bundle / mount - Remove the small bolt that holds the wire harness & connector to the strut tower. Disconnect the wire harness and tuck the ends out of the way
• The evaporator valve thingie mounted to the firewall - remove the 2 8mm screws holding it to the firewall
• Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail - notice the white color collar on the end - it unsnaps on the side with the 'ridges'. Push both ends out and away from the hose. You're not trying to remove the collar, just make the other side stand up from the hose. The is releases the hose from the connection and can be pulled away from the fuel rail.
• Engine mount - this is the critical part that is often left out of many instructions that I found on-line(!) Easy enough to do though...
  • Remove the 3 bolts (15mm) that hold down the passenger-side engine mount
  • Use a floor jack and piece of wood placed under the oil pan to lift that end of the engine.
• Serpentine / accessory belt - I was able to do this from above with a 15mm wrench. NOT enough clearance to even use my handy long reach serpentine belt tool, not even with a simple crowfoot 'socket'.

  With the wrench on the tensioner bolt and working from above, you're going to be pulling the wrench towards the FRONT of the car.

  NOTE: I didn't think of it until afterwards, but with the engine slightly lifted, there is likely to be plenty of room to get the serpentine belt tool onto the tensioner

  NOTE 2: This is a good opportunity to replace the belt, so make sure you have or make a diagram of the ROUTINGbefore you take it off(!)

• Other things in the way:
  • I was getting pretty ticked off, so I even cut that stupid 'bracket' that sticks out from the top, back left corner of the engine. Couldn't see any purpose for it other than to be directly in the way of getting the alternator out. (design engineer sick-humour?)
  • Removed the 2 bolts that hold the fuel line connector to the fuel rail. The plastic connector doesn't slip out of the rail, but it can rotate and might provide another 1/8" clearance
• 2 10mm mounting bolts:
  • The front one is easy - can even likely use an air ratchet to spin it out
• Getting the alt out:

  Using a long pry bar and that second person, we pushed the engine towards the front of the car

• This is a 2 person job! You're going to lifting the engine a bit, and someone has to help move it up & forward.
  • The job can be done completely from the top
  • I've seen instructions