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I have the same issue and I am not really sure. But I found someone who took pictures and step by step for a blend door which is in the same area. I will be trying this this weekend Blend door replacement with pictures ---- Tis' the season for people wanting heat from their trucks, and tis' the season that I've noted more and more temperature blend doors breaking in '97-'02 F150s and Expygators. Now, not everyone wants to pay a dealer to replace the door, it is a very labor intensive job, usually calling for 10-12 hours of labor depending on where you shop. So, for the DIY'ers around here, I figure I'd snap a few pictures of a Navigator I replaced the blend door in at work. Unfortunately, since I was on the clock officially, I didn't quite have the time to detail disassembly the way I wanted to. I started on it yesterday evening, when I didn't have my camera, and finished this morning just before lunchtime. So, for your viewing pleasure...
What the...son of a...put that dash back in that truck! Here's the "after," the first picture I took this morning. This shows some of the stuff you'll probably want to take loose to give max room to get in there to the plentum chamber, including the radio antenna lead on the passenger's side, and the three bulkhead connectors on the driver's side.
Bulkhead connectors? Wha? Yeap, that's them, to the right (if you've facing it) of the brake booster. Disconnect the three connectors by loosening the 10mm bolts holding them in place, pry the black lockplate off and squeeze the locking tabs to release them from the firewall.
The aforementioned lockplate for the three bulkhead connectors.
Continued...
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#2
10-26-2005, 07:36 PM Quintin
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Georgia on my mind... Vehicle: 2004 Ford F150
Posts: 5,599
Back inside the vehicle...
The driver's side after removal of the steering column. Disconnect the eleventy connectors going to various things on the steering column, turn the ignition switch to off and wiggle the steering wheel back and forth a little until it locks. This prevents the steering wheel from running off and damaging the clockspring. Now, unbolt the steering shaft pinch bolt (13mm), unbolt the shift indicator (5.5mm) and disconnect it from the shift lever, disconnect the column shifter cable and unbolt the column by removing the 6 - 13mm bolts holding it to the dash support. Also note the three 7mm bolts you'll have to remove to get the dash out as well. There's a 10mm nut on the lower left, and a couple grounds (8mm bolts) to remove in the driver's kickpanel. And while you're down there, go ahead and pull the bulkhead connectors through into the cab that you disconnected from under the hood.
The passenger's side after removal of the airbag. The airbag is retained by one 8mm bolt under the oval shaped cover on top of the dash, and two 8mm bolts accessed through the glovebox. Note, do not unbolt the glovebox hinge to get to those bolts, just unclip it, fold it down, remove the bolts and snap it back into place. The glovebox is spring loaded and can be a pain to get back into place. There's four (or six, CRS, sorry) 7mm bolts you'll have to remove here. There's also a couple more grounds in the passenger's side kickpanel you'll want to remove, as well as connectors to things like the inertia switch, air suspension switch (if equipped), and blower motor amongst other things. This is also where I'd recommend going into the passenger's side front wheel well and disconnecting the antenna lead at the mast and shoving it through the firewall, this'll get you more room to work with when pulling the dash back.
The top of the dash. Now, this'll vary according to what you're working on. On a Navigator, the dash panel that hides the two 7mm bolts you need to get to comes off in one whole piece. In an F150 or Expedition, it's got two or three little plugs that you've gotta pop out to get to the bolts.
Continued...
---- Last edited by Quintin : 10-26-2005 at 07:40 PM.
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#3
10-26-2005, 07:43 PM Quintin
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Georgia on my mind... Vehicle: 2004 Ford F150
Posts: 5,599
If everything goes as planned, you'll see something like this. This is the plentum chamber itself, where the evaporator core, heater core, and temperature blend door are. Let's crack that case open and see what's inside...15 - 8mm bolts...
Pictured here are the evaporator and heater cores, and the blend door. The blend door is a snap fit into the case. Pull back on the frame of the door on the passenger's side of it and lift the whole shootin' match out. What's wrong with that door, you say?
This one actually wasn't split all that bad. The blenddoor motor went to the parts house in the sky, and while peering through to see if the blend door motor was running during diagnosis, I saw this split in the door. If you've got EATC, this will be accompanied from time to time with DTC B1249 in the self test or test run with a compatible scan tool. You may also hear a popping noise from behind the dash.
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#4
10-26-2005, 07:46 PM Quintin
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Georgia on my mind... Vehicle: 2004 Ford F150
Posts: 5,599
The parts used...
XL3Z-19E616-AB is the blend door actuator itself. I think it might be different on trucks with manual temperature control though, so check with your friendly neighborhood Ford or Lincoln-Mercury store before using this part number for sure. Also, before teardown, if the motor still runs set it to half way temperature (70-80 degrees W/EATC) since it eases removal and installation of the new door. YL7Z-19D963-BA is the blend door.
This sounds like the common blend door problem on this model. The plastic door is driven by a DC motor that is geared too strong for the application. Over time the motor will overstress the door and break the connector. The same plenum box is used on the F150 and you can find information on the problem by searching for that model also. There is a video available on YouTube showing how to diagnose and repair the system. It is an expensive repair at the dealer, but you can repair it yourself with minimal skills. You can follow links on my bio page for pictures and additional information on how to diagnose and repair the problem.
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