The pulley directly below the compressor is the Power Steering pump, not an idler. It requires the use of a special GM power steering pully puller, usally available to rent at good auto part stores. The Idlers are the one between the alternator and a/c and the spring loaded tensioner is just below the alternator, both just bolt on. Removing the upper 1/2 of radiator shroud helps access to the front of the egine.
"transmission fluid leaking from fitting below radiator cap after replacing radiator on 99 surburban
Loosen the bolt in the center of the idler pulley. Then loosen the pulley and remove the belt. There is 3 bolts behind the idler pulley that remove the entire pulley assembly. One is located above the pulley to the top right and the other 2 bolts are below the pulley on either side. It will help to take the wheel off and remove the plastic access panel behind the wheel to the front side of the axle. Then you can drop the pulley out from the bottom and replace the pulley or whole assembly either one at this point. Reverse instructions to reassemble.
Easy, remove tensioner pulley (13mm left handed thread). Replace pulley Remove 2nd pulley (13mm I think, normal thread) Remove 3rd pulley (13mm I think, normal thread, found below 2nd pulley) Look up VY pulley on google to get a diagram and parts numbers. its simply a matter of unscrewing the bolt and sliding a new pulley in. might as well do drive belt while your there. Costs around $100 all up and takes under an hour :D
the idler pulley.
You must put the car on jacks and get under it preferably when the engine is cool. Once under the car you will find the A/C compressor located under the brake fluid reservoir. Then locate the pulley which is just below the compressor if you are looking down into the engine bay then loosen this pulley by using a wrench or socket wrench with the nut that is directly in the middle of the pulley. Once complete the pulley should be loose enough to get the belt around it and the compressors pulley, if not you can use a belt stretcher found at any auto supply store. Once finished make sure to tighten the pulley back up but only enough so the belt is tight DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. The belt well have longer life if tightened correctly. GOOD LUCK!
Below the AC compressor. Follow the hose at the bottom of the radiator and the housing it is connected to is what you need to remove.
Standing in front of truck look to your below power steering pump you see a pulley that is your tenisorner pulley 15mm loosing the bolt on pulley above to the left is another 15mm also turn counter clock wise to loosen it this will help remove the belt
first remove the belt by inserting a 3/8" drive in the square hole on the tensiner, then remove the one bolt just below the tensioner and then remove the center bolt on the pully (allen wrench).
Remove and contain the refrigerant; if you suspect the compressor motor has a burnd-out; treat the refrigerant as contaminated. Disconnect the lines from the compressor, including electrical, replace the filter, and compressor, purge the system, check for leaks, vent the nitrogen, do a pull down below 500 microns, replace refrigerant, and oil. do a run up check pressures, and temp.
* Have the air conditioning system discharged * Disconnect the negative battery cable * Set the parking brake,block the rear tires and raise the front of the car and support is securely on jackstands and remove the splash cover from below the engine * Remove the drivebelt * Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the compressor.Plug the open fittings to prevent entry of dirt and moisture * Disconnect the compressor clutch wiring harness.Unbolt the compressor from the mounting bracket and remove it from the car.NOTE:The upper mounting bolts may not come all the way out of the compressor-leave them in the compressor until it is removed from the car
Have the system discharged by a licensed AC tech. Remove the belt. Remove the bolt from the Suction/Discharge hose on the back of the compressor. Remove the two pressure switch cables from the back of the compressor and the one from the front driver side. Remove the 4 bolts holding the compressor to the engine, 2 in the front and 2 in the back. Be sure to replace the orifice tube and accumulator when opening the AC system as most compressors will not be warrantied unless this is done. The orifice tube is in the high pressure line going into the evaporator, the accumulator is below the compressor, attached to the wheel well or frame. Installation is the reverse of removal.
There are two belts on the 2000 Altima, the A/C compressor belt and the main belt. Remove the A/C belt first by loosening the nut in the middle of the idler pulley (the pulley below the compressor) and then loosening the tension bolt on the bottom of the idler pulley until enough slack is in the belt to pull it off. Remove the main belt by loosening the alternator which acts as an adjustable tensioner. Loosen the top and bottom bolts first then lossen the tension bolt until there is enough slack to remove the belt. To install new belts follow these instructions in reverse. Tighten the belts to about a 1/4" deflection and be sure to tighten all bolts. Notes: The lower dirt shield under the car may have to be removed first to gain access. Make sure to note the position of the belts through the pulleys before you remove the old ones. There may be a diagram under the hood of the belt route to use for a reference.
On my 1991 Town Car I had the air suspension compressor replaced, it was located below the air filter in the drivers side fender well. You also have to remove the wishield washer fluid tank and a small plastic shield.
The air compressor is below the window washer bottle below the air cleaner on the driver's side behind the headlight.
Do you mean that the AC clutch does not engage the compressor? Or do you mean that the AC compressor won't turn even if the clutch is engaged? If the compressor is siezed and will not turn even if the clutch is engaged, the only choice is to replace the compressor. If you can turn the compressor by hand (understand that the belt pulley will turn freely with the engine if the clutch isn't engaged) but the compressor clutch isn't engaging, it might just be out of refrigerant. There is a sensor, usually somewhere near the receiver/dryer) that detects the "low side" refrigerant pressure. Once the refrigerant pressure at the sensor drops below a specified level, the compressor will not turn on. In other words, if the compressor clutch won't engage it might just be out of refrigerant.
Below and toward the center of the engine from the power steering pump is an idler pulley. Loosen the 15 mm bolt in that pully, but do not remove it. Then, just to the right and below (as viewed from in front of the engine) the water temperature sensor is another 15mm bolt. This is the tensioner bolt. Loosen it all the way, the new belt will not have streched yet and will not fit over the pulley if you don't. Reverse the proceedure to install, if you forget to tighten the pulley when you are done you will be doing it again real soon. Find the idler pulley tensioner and remove tension from the belt. It will then come right off.
yes it is!
Pulley has different physics. Pulley is used to lift heavy objects.
There is no opposite machine to a pulley. However, a jack or hydraulic lift essentially does the reverse, lifting from below rather than from above.
If you are facing the front of the vehicle the AC compressor is located on the right side of the engine, below the alternator.
Hard to tell if this question is to:Release the tension on the belt for replacement, orRemove the pulley/tensioner for replacementSee "Related Questions" below for more about doing both
Looking at the front of the engine, on the left hand side at the top is the power steering pump. Directly below that is the alternator and directly below the alternator is the compressor. AEasiest to get to from below.
Legally you can't without the EPA's Secton 609 certifacation, because any refrigerant in the system must be removed by a licensed technician. And even if its empty of refrigerant, after you relace the compressor you must pull a vacuum on the system to remove air and moisture. I would recomend taking it to a garage. The guy above probably owns an AC garage. You need to have a certified mechanic "discharge" and "re-charge" the refrigerant. However, the act of replacing the AC compressor can be done by you (although this depends on "you"). My local shop charges $85 to remove the refrigerant and replace it again after I have changed out the compressor. Tomorrow I will take the old compressor off and put the new one in...from what I gather so far...this entails removing the plastic cover below the compressor, remove the belt, remove the compressor, replace the new one and use a wrench on the belt "auto-tensioner" to get the belt back on. Run the car and make sure it works properly...then take it back to the garage, get the refrigerant re-charged and you should be good to go!
Remove the plug lead to avoid a start up. With the deck in the lowest position, take off cutter belt from the engine pulley by pulling it down below the pulley. It id as tight fit so perserve. Unscrew the bolt in the head of the idler pulley on the left hand side and remove the pulley, same for the right hand side pulley. Loosen the 2 outer nuts on the centre cutter pulley guide and remove the remaining nut at the front of the centre pulley. The belt can then be removed. Refit new belt in reverse order, run belt for about 30 minutes then check tension when engaged. If too loose then move the left hand bracket adjuster, or if really loose, put the bolt through another of the 5 holes. Belt is too tight if blades keep spinning when disengaged. Blades should stop spinning in about 7 seconds when disengaged.
If it's not driving anything, it's the idler pulley.