How do you replace a starter on a 1991 Mazda mpv v-6 4wd?

Answer 1

same problem

It takes time as you can't get to if from above because of the exhaust manifold and from below because of the transfer case. The shop manual only talks about the 2WD because it does not have transfer case and that cost my sister to pay a dealer $700 to replace on her 2WD MPV.

Disconnect the battery.

Remove the skid plate and bottom cover.

1. Take off the powersteering and alternator belt. Remove Power Steering pulley by taking off the nut and the pully comes off the fluted shaft. This required in an alternator replacement as the pulley blocks the alternator hanger bolt.

2. Remove the power steering pump and be careful where you disconnect the Plumbing because you cause the pump valve to fall out if you remove the bottom hose connection from the bolt on the bottom of the pump.

3. Disconnect the electrical connections and remove the alternator.

4. Remove the transfer case drive shaft to get the angle to remove the starter bolts.

5. Now that you have a front access to the starter, disconnect the electrical connections now or after you drop the starter.

6. Remove the starter bolts from the transmission side.

Take a break or wait till the next day.

7. Replace the starter and this might take two persons. One to hold the starter in place. I stuck some towels under the starter to hold it in place to reinstall the starter bolts. Be sure to reconnect the electrical connections as in the removal.

Taking my time, it took two sessions as I wanted to be refreshed for the reinstall.

It is not hard, but tedious and dirty and you have to move around to get to the different things.

I used a Napa rebuilt and am happy with it. A friend of mine finally used a Napa rebuilt for his 77 Ford F250 diesel and found it to be stronger than your lifetime guarantee ones.

By the way, I found that replacing the passenger side exhaust manifold gasket got rid of the ticking lifer noise at startup. Finally did it because it blew and the the usual reason for curing the ticking problems because it sounds like lifter noise is replacing the cam shaft. The center port is higher than the two ends, probably because of warpage and broke the firewall manifold bolt. Used an Arkasas milling machine to reduce the difference. (A flat bastard file)

While you have the manifold out, it would be a good time to replace the heater hose that is in the same area and is unreachable otherwise.