For this you don't have to unhook the battery! Step 1: jack up the left side of the car. Crawl under, find the clutch lever and remove the clutch cable adjusting nut. Step 2: open the hood and unhook the accelerator cable. Step 3: remove the two bolts holding the pedal cluster in, and extract the pedal cluster from the car. You will find one of two things: that the clevis on the end of the clutch cable wore through (it's made of pot metal, so it happens), or that the hook on the end of the clutch pedal wore through. The odds of either happening are about equal. If it's the pedal hook, stop what you're doing. Take the pedal cluster away from the car. The hook is pushed into a tube and secured with one small bolt. Remove the bolt, stick a metal rod of some sort on the end of the hook rod that's shoved into the tube, and whack it with a hammer until it comes out. Push a new hook into the tube, align the hole in the tube with the hole in the hook, and install the bolt. Then check the end of the cable just to make sure. If the cable is broken, grab it and pull it out. Take the new cable out of the bag. Dunk it in Rustoleum paint, then hang it up to dry. When it does, thread it into the tube the old one came from, put the clevis on the clutch pedal hook, and reinstall the pedal cluster. Step 4: Crawl back under the car. Thread the end of the cable through the clutch lever, and get the adjusting nut (1966s didn't have wing nuts, but I'd get one when I bought the new cable--they make adjusting the clutch SO nice...) started on the cable. Step 5: Have someone go into the car with a ruler. Press the clutch pedal in about half an inch. When it's down, you screw the adjuster nut down until it touches the clutch lever. Step 6: let the car back down and hook the accelerator cable back up. You're done.
There are three parts to the pedal--the pedal itself, the thing it pushes on and the cable coming out the back of it. The pedal is real easy to install because it's held in with a metal rod that sticks through two bent-up places on the floor. You pull the rod out, take out the old pedal, put the new one in and replace the rod. The thing it pushes on is the "pedal cluster." The brake and clutch pedals are part of it. To get this out you gotta jack up the car and unhook the clutch cable from the transmission, then open the engine cover and unhook the accelerator cable from the carb. The cluster is held to the car by two bolts which go into the tunnel. Remove them both, then work the clutch arm out through the hole it goes into. (While you're there, look at the end of the clutch cable and at the clutch arm. If either of them looks questionable, replace it now because floating the gears to get home is not fun.) The cable you replace by removing the pedal cluster, pulling the old cable out, pushing the new one in and reattaching it at both ends. Make sure you get a cable for a carbureted car. The ones for fuel injected cars will work but they're too long.
A 1966 Volkswagen Beetle can hold approximately 10.6 gallons of gas. The vehicles gas light will turn on the there is less than 2 gallons of gas in the tank.
They are Pressed in. You will need to take it to a shop
F0 1966/67 1300cc
HO 1966/67 1500cc
F0 1966/67 1300cc
The same place the radiator is: Volkswagen didn't put one on.
The original 1966 stock electrical system was 6 volt negative ground. In 1967 they went to 12 volt negative ground.
There is a rod that runs from the clutch pedal mechanism to the clutch fork. On this rod there should be threads and a couple of nuts to adjust the length of the rod shorter or longer. Adjust as needed.
This would be a late 1965 to early 1966 manufactured engine, 1966 model year 1300 cc engine.
== ==
Shaw Cable originated in Edmonton, Alberta. It began as Capital Cable Television Co. in 1966, and changed it's name to Shaw Cablesystems when it went public in 1983.