How do you replace the fuel pump located on a 1989 Ford Bronco?

Answer 1

I have a 1986 Bronco XLT. That has a 302 5.0L V-8 wEFI.

Now I will mention that I just did this very thing to my own Bronco last month,. or in December 2005.

The Fuel PUMP is located down inside the Fuel Tank. It is connected to the hanger assembly and sending unit. I highly recommend that you do not buy the pump as an individual unit, as it will prove to be too cost restrictive when you realize the other components and see their condition you will truly understand the need for their replacement also.

This item can be purchased online at autozone.com cheaper than anywhere else in the US right now. You I purchased mine last month for $99.00. + $10 dollars for S+H for 2 day delivery. a total of 108 dollars... The Fuel pump by itself will run you that and then some anywhere else. In fact, most other places the pump alone runs well over the $200.00 mark. Just be sure to look for a MASTER FUEL PUMP for your 1989 Ford TRUCK BRONCO. If you go through Autozone.com like I did, mine INCLUDED: FUEL PUMP, HANGER ASSEMBLY, AND STRAINER and the NEW SENDING UNIT and O-ring seal already to drop into your tank.

The tank is another area of consideration... Think about the fact that it is nearly 20 years old... While it is out of the vehicle, it should at least be cleaned, ie "boiled out" at a very minimum before being reinstalled.

I've seen the cost on this service exceed the 200.oo mark and myself opted to buy a brand new tank. I suggest that you contact Mark at BroncoGraveyard.com tell him Jack McCann out in Washington sent you. At the Broncograveyard, A New 33 gallon steel tank cost's $99.00 or a plastic tank runs around $120.00.. either one with shipping is still less than cleaning the one you have. They do cost more, actually anywhere from 50 to 100% more at most other places.Also, do not be fooled by the name into thinking the bronco "graveyard" is for old or used parts. All of my components are Brand New OE and OEM Parts.

I would recommend having a friend help you here, but you can do this by yourslef as long as you have a floor jack nearby to help support the weight of the tank. This will be even more important in lifting it back up and holding it and balancing and shifting it around, while reinstalling the straps and bolts and skid plate.

Now, you can either drain the tank to make it lighter to work with. Although it is not required. I did mine with it half full or with 18+ gallons left in it anyway. Personally I disposed of my gas by giving it to a friend who has an old carburated vehicle.

A} First thing you will want to do is disconnect the negative battery cable.

B} Now your ready to remove the Skid Plate covering the tank.

C} Keeping in mind that their are two pipe lines and a vapor return line connected on the top of the tank which you should carefully disconnect {remembering, or marking which went where} along with disconnecting the filler inlet hose at the filler gate door.

D} Once the bolts are removed holding the tank straps, it is time to lower the tank from from the vehicle.

Now that the tank is down on the ground, you will need to loosen and remove the LOCK ring from around the Hanger Assembly and pull it out of the tank. After you inspect this component you'll see why I tried to explain all of the above to you first. Installing only a new pump or even reinstalling the complete new assembly as discussed above, into the old dirty, grimy, crusty, rusted out tank is clearly a waste of your time and money.

Putting this back is pretty much in reverse order.

Happy Motoring