Just loosen the four bolts about 1-2 turns, put a 10mm socket on there so you don't mushroom the heads when tapping, and tap each bolt gently. If it's very rusty, some penetrating oil will help. The part is NOT pressed in..it's only the rust holding it.
to prevent damage to the wheel bearing! remove the brake caliper and hang to the side. dont remove hose. turn wheel left or right. remove the 4 bolts holding the rotor/hug assm. remove axle nut. with some gentle tapping from the back side (axle side) the assm. will drop out . then you will have access to the 4 bolts that retain the rotor
Remove caliper assembly and bungee or tie it out of the way. Remove CV axle nut. Turn rotor/hub one way and push axle out of the hub. You will see 4 bolts (12 point 10mm) that need to be removed. These are pretty tight and with ABS, be careful not to damage the tone ring on the axle or the sensor. Once the 4 bolts are removed, then the rotor/hub assembly should come off. If there is rust or it will not come, THEN you can attach a slide hammer to remove hub from housing or tap the back of the rotor with a hammer (watch out!! could fall on your toes, so hang on to the hub). The rotor can then be unbolted from the hub and replaced. NOTE--when re-installing, start all 4 bolts first then tighten in stages to pull the hub in place properly. You must make sure that the hub is seated properly in housing. Also, you should not have to resurface new rotors, just make sure they are cleaned up from the coating and greasy fingers. Torque axle nut down and re-install caliper. Don't forget to pump the brakes to move the pistons out and make sure the brake fluid is at the proper level, not too low or too high (too high could cause front brakes to drag). Adjust rear brakes for a nice pedal height and tight park brake. Give time for pads to seat with the rotor--DO NOT SLAM ON BRAKES!! apply normally.
I agree with the last answer. A slide hammer is NOT needed. Remove the four bolts (12pt 10mm) behind the bearing housing and the whole assembly will come out with a little persuasion. If you're planning on changing the rotors, however, you may encounter a different problem. On the wheel side of the the rotor there are four 14mm bolts that hold the bearing assembly to the rotor. These must be removed if you plan to replace the rotor and yet keep the bearing. BE VERY CAREFUL when you take this bolts out. They are made of soft metal and can be stripped easily. If they do get stripped, it's pretty easy to drill them out.
OK, you have a 1987 Honda Accord. What is your question?
where is fuel filter on a 1987 Honda accord
The cam belt must be replace on the 1987 Honda Accord every 60,000 miles or 10 years whichever comes first. Warning: This is an interference engine.
register at http://www.hondahookup.com/. Then log in and download the manual. it is free
Emergency cut off switch for 1987 honda accord
No there is no air bag in any 1987 Honda Accord. Honda installed air bags in 1991.
I know an 87 honda accord engine will fit.
its the tip of the small hose that plugs into the top of your valve cover
Hope this website helps It's the shop manual for the 1987 Honda Accord. http://pauldesign.ru/honda/shopmanual.html
Brake light switch is out of adjustment or needs relplaced.
probably not, the accord layout changed quite a bit from 1987 to 1993
You can get a diagram of your 1987 Honda Accord cooling system at most Honda dealerships. Honda service manuals will also have the cooling system diagram and can be obtained from most local libraries.