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While the below poster provided accurate information, there are some points a novice techinican or do-it-yourselfer should follow. You do NOT need to remove the intake manifold or fuel injectors/rail, or the alternator. You should be focused on the front end of the engine. The power steering pump, crank pulley, plastic covers, lower inner wheel splash guard will need to be removed to access the timing assembly. As well as the valve cover to access the cam shafts. If you are changing your water pump YOU MUST replace the timing belt, idler pulley, tensioner, and seals. This is cheap insurance to prevent failure, and a new engine or top engine rebuild if the belt was to fail. Keep in mind that contamination be it coolant or oil will shorten the life of the belt. Once you have access to the timing belt you must mark the positions of the pulleys with the #1 cylinder on TDC in it's compression stroke. The two cam pulleys have marks which should point at each other, and the lower crank gear should point towards the ground at a small recess on the black metal plate which houses the timing assembly. Before you remove the water pump MARK it's location on the engine block, marking the block and water pump. Remove it and mark the new pump in the same location you marked the old one. Upon reinstallation you can use these marks as a gauge to properly set the tension of the belt assembly. Adjustble timing rotations can be tricky for a novice or do-it-yourselfer and you can seriously damage your engine ig you over tighten or leave too loose.Be prepared to work! It is underneath your alternator facing the timing belt. It is the timing belt tensioner! Yes, your timing belt tensioner is the water pump! If after you remove the intake manifold, the injectors, the alternator and bracket it should be visible. Then you must remove the timing belt cover top and bottom. then there are Allen bolt holes in the metal protective plate for the water pump. I think there are four. You must loosen them. Drain the radiator fluid before beginning this whole process. Once the Allen bolts are loose you can use channel locks to loosen the water pump which will loosen the tension on the timing belt. once you've done that remove the belt. To totally remove the timing belt you must also remove the power steering pump and hoses and the pulley you'll find in your way as well. Once you remove the belt completely(put a new one in!!!! they recommend every 40,000 miles...if they break you will bend your valves which will turn into $1600 which I paid this is an interference engine!!!!! There are bolts that hold the water pump in on the water pump side. You also remove the water pump protector on the timing belt side. There is a seal that goes in with the pump on the timing belt side. Remove it, install the new water pump and replace that protection plate on the timing belt side. When you reverse this process once installed once the timing belt is on after ensuring the timing marks are in their proper position...DOHC marks and bottom is correct also. tension the timing belt, it is adjusted with a 41mm specialty wrench by turning the ecentric water pump (impossible to adjust without the wrench). Once you do this you back the tension off less than a 1/16 of a fact a hair backward. If you do not do this it will be too tight and make a loud whirring noise that will sound like the motor will explode. This will easily break the timing belt. Put it back together. I did this for the first time in about 8 hours. I hear this is a 4 hour job! hope it helps...
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2011-09-12 21:07:08
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Q: How do you replace the water pump on a 1999 Daewoo Lanos?
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