I deleted the other answers here as none were by contractors that do this for a living and were full of misinformation. Having done this for 36 years and 15,000 resurfaces with zero bond failures has me thoroughly convinced I am doing this the best way possible. Out here in the west most contractors chip, strip, jackhammer the old plaster from the gunite shell. Unfortunately this seems to do a lot of damage and compromises the integrity of the shell. Having seen many pools that were structurally sound for 20,30,40 years, after being stripped they cracked within 1-2 years. Pools are built like retaining walls designed to hold the dirt back. Separating the plaster from the gunite typically means breaking the gunite to get the plaster off thereby weakening the shell. I have seen many pools that this method actually exposed the rebar in the gunite. This is completely unneccessary. The plaster is usually not shot all the way through but only the top 10-25% is deteriorated. This soft top layer can be scraped or shaved off with air scrapers thereby doing no damage to the gunite itself. The plaster underneath is as hard as the day it was applied. Follow the scraping with a min. 4000 psi pressure washer and then shoot on a polymer cement bond coat. It can also be rolled on but shooting gives a much rougher surface for a better bond to the new plaster. Exposed aggregate surfaces wash off the protective cream coat to expose the aggregate and have a shorter useful life. Try to find a contractor that uses a cement specifically designed for pools which means it will probably be an American made product with polymer and pozzolan additives which densify the matrix of the plaster and are much more resistant to chemical attack. Marble sand was the aggregate of choice for many years but many mineral suppliers substituted limestone sand over 20 years ago. Marble is 100 times harder than limestone. Ask your contractor what type of cement and sand they use and where it comes from. Beware of cement from Asian countries as it is substandard and fails rapidly. Do not assume that all plaster is created equal because it is NOT. Painting is not a long term solution and is used mostly by house flippers to conceal plaster that needs to be replaced. There are no fiberglassers left out here as that proved to be a misapplication of a material to a purpose. IT seems that good old plaster has withstood the test of time and remains the surface of choice of most pool owners. Pebble surfaces are rarely done a second time by the original owner as they are quite rough and not very user friendly. Quartz or silica based surfaces can be subject to ASR or alkali silica reactivity. Do your own research and protect your investment. Come from a position of knowledge when interviewing contractors. Keep in mind that better products and methodology cost more initially but provide many more years of service life making them significantly more cost effective.
How often should you resurface a gunite pool?
The cost to resurface a gunite pool depends on your location, the size of your pool, and exactly what you want done. On average, as of 2014 it cost between $8,000 and $15,000 to resurface a pool.
The paint may be sandblasted off, Then just re-paint or marblelite
How to resurface a gunite (or concrete) pool with fiberglass is explained in "Pool Resurfacing Made Easy" written in 1999 by Bill Nash, CEO of UGlassIt Pool Resurfacing, Inc. It can be ordered online at uglassit.com/order_book.htm. The company provides all the material and supplies necessary for the resurfacing of all kinds of swimming pools, plus telephone help is available 7 days weekly.
Gunite, cement does not rust.
No. Gunite is concrete.
Pebble sheen is the finish on the surface of a pool gunite is the cement that a pool is constructed from in other words you can finish a gunite pool with pebble sheen.
Either gunite or fiberglass will work well for an indoor pool.
how do i find and repair leak in gunite pool with water in it?
building pool myself just want to contract out the gunite job are you interested