You must turn the engine over until you get top dead center (TDC) on the #1 cylinder. Make sure its on the compression stroke. (take spark plug out and put your finger over the hole, make sure air is coming out.
Then with #1 on TDC drop the distributor in with the rotor buton pointing to the spark plug wire for the #1 cylinder. that's it!
Now it should run assuming you have the other wires in the correct firing order.
here is the correct order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 The distributor runs counter-clock wise. The cylinders are numbered 1234 front to back on the passenger side and 5678 front to back on the driver's side.
AnswerThe sensor is located in the distributor on the rear of the engine. The distributor has to be pulled to be able to remove the sensor.
The timing on that engine is computer controlled. It requires an engine scanner to set the timing. No other way.
Until the engine will run without the choke being pulled.
Without knowing what application you have this cannot be answered. For the majority an engine does not have to be pulled. It all about whether you can access the heads for removal or not.
no the gear stays in place , unless you take the timing gear cover off + the bolts that hold it to the cam shaft.no it won't change the position either unless you crank the engine, the gear stays in place.
There is a gear on the distributor shaft and a gear on the end of the camshaft that it engages with. The gear on the camshaft cannot be removed as it is part of the camshaft. The gear on the distributor shaft can be removed if it is worn; however, this is rare. These two gears must be in proper mesh for the engine to run; one cog off and it will not start.If you need further assistance google ' finding top dead center on a 350 chevy'.
you've got the distributor off 180 degrees...
Bring the #1 plug up, find the firing order to the distributor then go clockwise. What type of engine is it? if its a 4 cylinder engine, cyl #1 is at the front of the engine, then #2, #3 and at the rear is #4. the distributor cap has one terminal that has a "1" on it and an arrow showing the direction that the rotor turns. obviously the #1 wire goes on the #1 terminal. the next terminal (following the arrow) is 3 then 4 then 2.
No, the engine doesn't have to be pulled to change the water pump.
Depends on the type of vehicle you are working on. With an older VW bug the engine must be pulled to change the clutch. On most cars and trucks the technique is to pull the transmission.
Run a quick compression test to make sure the cam is timed properly. Then make sure the cam AND the crank are at #1TDC when you put the distributor in at #1. You may need to work on it some more. It's easy to end up with the timing off.
1. If you haven't already pulled the old distributor, just turn the engine by hand until the rotor points to #1, then pull the old distributor, point the new one at #1 and slide it in. You'll notice that the gears turn the rotor a little and you'll probably have to pull the distributor and compensate for the amount that the rotor turned. 2. If you HAVE already pulled the old distributor, make sure the engine is turned to #1TDC. You'll need to be careful since it's possible to have the crankcase "360 degrees out", meaning that #1 is at TDC of compression stroke every OTHER time it turns. One way to know for certain is to remove the #1 plug, turn the engine forward by hand until you feel compression, then continue to turn the engine by hand until #1 is at TDC. THEN, point the rotor at #1 and slide it into position. If you don't know where #1 is supposed to be on the distributor, you may need to refer to either a shop manual or one of the cheap manuals available at most auto parts retailers.
i have the same problem on a 91 dodge and i took distributor out and pulled the gear out and it was striped u can see cam turning but not the distributor so check and see if its turning
None any more. the distributor pulled out of MN completely
The revs jump up because when the clutch is pulled in the engine gets disconnected from the wheels. This means that it no longer has to move the weight of the bike and it's driver, so its much easier for the engine to work.
If lanes are not marked, you cannot be pulled over for a lane violation. However, you can always be pulled over for reckless driving, which is at the discretion of the officer.
how do you remove the engine? Is it pulled from the top or do you unbolt the sub frame and slide it out from under the car?
It had a powerful engine that pulled it up and it was incredibly manueverable.
When the engine is running, the weights are spun to the outermost position and lock there. When the engine is turned off the springs pull the weights in, and the arm of the weights slightly modifies the timing of the distributor. At that point the distributor timing is slightly retarded, meaning that the sparkplugs will fire just a little later than they would during normal operation. The advantage of this is that it makes it a lot easier to start the engine. Normally an electrical spark is generated to a sparkplug just slightly before the piston reaches "top dead center". Engineers have learned to do this to maximize the performance of the engine. Unfortunately, it's almost impossible to start the engine if it's firing early like that. So... when the spring is missing, the weight may not be pulled in as hard and the ignition timing might not be retarded quite as much as it should be, but it shouldn't keep the engine from starting or at least trying to start.
Once you get the distributor cap off you should be able to pull the button off without a problem. Just remember to install the new button in the exact position you pulled the old one off.