You must turn the engine over until you get top dead center (TDC) on the #1 cylinder. Make sure its on the compression stroke. (take spark plug out and put your finger over the hole, make sure air is coming out.
Then with #1 on TDC drop the distributor in with the rotor buton pointing to the spark plug wire for the #1 cylinder. that's it!
Now it should run assuming you have the other wires in the correct firing order.
here is the correct order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 The distributor runs counter-clock wise. The cylinders are numbered 1234 front to back on the passenger side and 5678 front to back on the driver's side.
AnswerThe sensor is located in the distributor on the rear of the engine. The distributor has to be pulled to be able to remove the sensor.
The timing on that engine is computer controlled. It requires an engine scanner to set the timing. No other way.
Until the engine will run without the choke being pulled.
no the gear stays in place , unless you take the timing gear cover off + the bolts that hold it to the cam shaft.no it won't change the position either unless you crank the engine, the gear stays in place.
Without knowing what application you have this cannot be answered. For the majority an engine does not have to be pulled. It all about whether you can access the heads for removal or not.
There is a gear on the distributor shaft and a gear on the end of the camshaft that it engages with. The gear on the camshaft cannot be removed as it is part of the camshaft. The gear on the distributor shaft can be removed if it is worn; however, this is rare. These two gears must be in proper mesh for the engine to run; one cog off and it will not start.If you need further assistance google ' finding top dead center on a 350 chevy'.
you've got the distributor off 180 degrees...
Bring the #1 plug up, find the firing order to the distributor then go clockwise. What type of engine is it? if its a 4 cylinder engine, cyl #1 is at the front of the engine, then #2, #3 and at the rear is #4. the distributor cap has one terminal that has a "1" on it and an arrow showing the direction that the rotor turns. obviously the #1 wire goes on the #1 terminal. the next terminal (following the arrow) is 3 then 4 then 2.
1. If you haven't already pulled the old distributor, just turn the engine by hand until the rotor points to #1, then pull the old distributor, point the new one at #1 and slide it in. You'll notice that the gears turn the rotor a little and you'll probably have to pull the distributor and compensate for the amount that the rotor turned. 2. If you HAVE already pulled the old distributor, make sure the engine is turned to #1TDC. You'll need to be careful since it's possible to have the crankcase "360 degrees out", meaning that #1 is at TDC of compression stroke every OTHER time it turns. One way to know for certain is to remove the #1 plug, turn the engine forward by hand until you feel compression, then continue to turn the engine by hand until #1 is at TDC. THEN, point the rotor at #1 and slide it into position. If you don't know where #1 is supposed to be on the distributor, you may need to refer to either a shop manual or one of the cheap manuals available at most auto parts retailers.
Run a quick compression test to make sure the cam is timed properly. Then make sure the cam AND the crank are at #1TDC when you put the distributor in at #1. You may need to work on it some more. It's easy to end up with the timing off.
Depends on the type of vehicle you are working on. With an older VW bug the engine must be pulled to change the clutch. On most cars and trucks the technique is to pull the transmission.
No, the engine doesn't have to be pulled to change the water pump.