== == need to set timing on my 1986 corvette after replace hei
It can not be done with any certainty with out getting number one cylinder on top dead center and on the compression stroke.
18 Degrees Before top dead center *Engine warm *Set at 1400 RPM *Distributor vacuum hose disconnected & plugged *Transmission in drive (parking brake engaged) *All accessories off.
Yes, the defrost is supposed to run in A/C mode for better defrosting
On a 3.0 v6, it is right on top of the engine, closer to the driver's side. and the ignition module is not "in" the distributor, it is attached to the side of it. It looks like a rectangle with a wire harness that connects to one end. fyi...removal of that module requires a special 5.5mm tool that is sold online under the name "ford ignition module tool" or something like that. You ***cannot*** remove the module without that tool!!! gotta love how they make it hard for normal folks to repair their own cars!!!!
whats that supposed to mean.
Yes Mine Has that to it's a 95.
The flange connects to the shower and just goes through the floor. It shouldn't mount to the floor.
Wherever the distributor rotor is pointing when the #1 piston is at TDC of it's compression cycle. When an engine comes from the factory it's supposed to always be in the same direction, but if the distributor has been removed and the person working on it wasn't too concerned, who knows WHERE it will be pointing. I can't believe that a distributor on a 79 has never been removed, so you'll need to find #1 TDC and figure it out from there.
there should be a notch to keep it from going on unless it is on correctly. i am assuming that it is the "rotator" under the distributor cap...
I have a 1995 Ford Explorer , and with the engine running a mechanic disconnected both battery cables and it kept running - I was surprised!
Short Answer: it is not supposed to change. The actual timing is determined by the ECM using input from several sensors including the CKP and the CMP.
The distributor drive is a little shaft with a gear on the end of it that meshes with a gear on the crankshaft. Your first task is to be sure there's not one in there already. Stick your distributor in the hole where it goes, shove it in as far as it will go, and turn the rotor. If it meshes with something in there, you've got a distributor drive. Tighten the distributor clamp after you static-time the engine, and be happy. If you DON'T have one... remove the right-side valve cover. Turn the engine over with a wrench until number 1 cylinder (the one to the front of the car) is in firing position--both valves closed. Get a distributor drive, grease it up (it probably won't go in unless you do), and put it in the hole where it goes. Don't stick it in all the way. Put a rotor in your distributor, mesh the end of the distributor shaft with the distributor driveshaft--it only fits one way--and turn the rotor until the long, narrow end, which is where the fire comes from, is pointing at you. Now push the distributor down until it stops. If you have lived a clean life, the teeth on the distributor drive meshed with the teeth on the crank, and the distributor bottomed out like it was supposed to. No one gets that lucky, so just move the rotor back and forth a little and it will drop right in.