Ignition timing: Hook up a timing light to the #1 spark plug wire and battery, Loosen the bolts on the distributor. With the engine running shine the light on the plastic timing mark located on the lower timing belt cover. Adjust the distributor forward or backwards as needed to align the mark on the crank pulley with the big mark on the graduated pointer on the timing belt cover. Once aligned tighten the distributor and your done.
Slow, 7+ seconds?
It takes about .9 of an hour to change regardless of which engine you have.(book time) it is located on the distributor, you have to remove the distributor to check it and/or replace it.
HJave vehicle scanned to determine the problem
The mazda Familia, a.k.a. the Protege appears to be the best selling mazda of all time. To date it has sold over 10000000 units. The mazda rx7 on the other hand is the best selling rotary enginged car of all time.
waste of time
No, all cars from about 1993 are fuel injected. Fuel injection started in the late 1970's on luxury cars and trickled down to less expensive cars over time. Most cars had it by 1987.
The Mazda 323 of that time from had a 1600cc engine but that isn't going to effect the issue of where to get a wiring diagram. Haynes makes a manual for the 1990-1994 Mazda 323. If you have a 1986-1989 Mazda 323, you will need to get a FSM (Factory Service Manual).
Is very possible but it is a wate of time and money, I have B2200 and trust me the smallest engine that can manage the weight of that mini pick up is a 2.0L anything smaller is a waste, I tried with RX7 engine and it is not that reliable, unless is turbo and have to play with diferential ratios
Pressure, check your gas cap. Might need a new one. Seal might be leaking.
I own a 97 Mazda Protege and my check engine light has been on for almost a year and a half. The light could be on for many reasons but the biggest cause is the gas cap. Make sure you put the cap on tightly and make it click five or six times, every time. My check engine light is on because of a selenoid (not spelled correctly) in the emissions control, not a serious issue. I'd suggest taking your car to a shop and have a diagnostic test done and that will let you know for sure what is wrong with your car.
If it is leaking or noisy then it is bad. You should also be able to see the coolant flow with the engine cool and radiator cap off. Give it time to warm up and you will see the movement of coolant if it is working.
It will eventually break causing your engine to "jump time" and could cause more problems that are more costly to repair, it is much easier and less expensive to change a belt than it is to replace one.