Ignition timing: Hook up a timing light to the #1 spark plug wire and battery, Loosen the bolts on the distributor. With the engine running shine the light on the plastic timing mark located on the lower timing belt cover. Adjust the distributor forward or backwards as needed to align the mark on the crank pulley with the big mark on the graduated pointer on the timing belt cover. Once aligned tighten the distributor and your done.
It takes about .9 of an hour to change regardless of which engine you have.(book time) it is located on the distributor, you have to remove the distributor to check it and/or replace it.
Slow, 7+ seconds?
HJave vehicle scanned to determine the problem
The mazda Familia, a.k.a. the Protege appears to be the best selling mazda of all time. To date it has sold over 10000000 units. The mazda rx7 on the other hand is the best selling rotary enginged car of all time.
waste of time
No, all cars from about 1993 are fuel injected. Fuel injection started in the late 1970's on luxury cars and trickled down to less expensive cars over time. Most cars had it by 1987.
Is very possible but it is a wate of time and money, I have B2200 and trust me the smallest engine that can manage the weight of that mini pick up is a 2.0L anything smaller is a waste, I tried with RX7 engine and it is not that reliable, unless is turbo and have to play with diferential ratios
I own a 97 Mazda Protege and my check engine light has been on for almost a year and a half. The light could be on for many reasons but the biggest cause is the gas cap. Make sure you put the cap on tightly and make it click five or six times, every time. My check engine light is on because of a selenoid (not spelled correctly) in the emissions control, not a serious issue. I'd suggest taking your car to a shop and have a diagnostic test done and that will let you know for sure what is wrong with your car.
Pressure, check your gas cap. Might need a new one. Seal might be leaking.
The Mazda 323 of that time from had a 1600cc engine but that isn't going to effect the issue of where to get a wiring diagram. Haynes makes a manual for the 1990-1994 Mazda 323. If you have a 1986-1989 Mazda 323, you will need to get a FSM (Factory Service Manual).
If it is leaking or noisy then it is bad. You should also be able to see the coolant flow with the engine cool and radiator cap off. Give it time to warm up and you will see the movement of coolant if it is working.
It will eventually break causing your engine to "jump time" and could cause more problems that are more costly to repair, it is much easier and less expensive to change a belt than it is to replace one.
As with most computers you may reset it by disconnecting the battery for a time and for good measure ground the positive termnial wire against the chassi. Of course if you still have a problem the light will come one again as soon as the computer detects a fault.
needs a coil or distributor it could also be that the alternator isn't working and the car may be draining the battery every time you drive it
If you have 100,000 miles or more it is time to change it or get it checked by a mechanic. I have a Mazda protege 2000 and it is on the left side of the engine by my belts. I had a leak near there and the mechanic took off the cap and my belt needed replacement. If your belt breaks on you it could damage your engine and cost more in the long run. Be safe and get it checked out. there is no way of telling but by looking at it
Well first of all, if your talking about a manual shift, the clutch is. more or less part of the transmission. Sounds to me like your clutch pad / disk is worn out or you burned it up. Which can happen if you slip the clutch all the time at stop lights / signs. In that case you should probably replace the clutch plate and disk replaced, and have your flywheel resurfaced.
I am not sure if it has any but if there is they will be down on the crank shaft pulley
Mazda warranty pays 2.2 hours of labour. Normally the timing chain will last the life of the engine and no maintenance is required.
It is probably time to change your belt. Or it may also just be too loose! when a belt gets to loose or worn, it will slip while engine is running causing a loud squiling noise to come from the engine compartment. eventually the belt will break! It is probably time to change your belt. Or it may also just be too loose! when a belt gets to loose or worn, it will slip while engine is running causing a loud squiling noise to come from the engine compartment. eventually the belt will break!
That's when the air flow passing through the radiator is least, thus the fan runs.
It refers to the Heated Oxygen Sensor, and specifically that the signal remains unchanged for more than 20 seconds after closed loop. Probably time to change it.
Check the rear light wires, could be a short
The timing mark for the Mazda 626 is in front of the engine. The marks for it belt are on the belt itself. The time for this can be set with a timing gun. A mechanic can set this for you.
I own a 2002 Mazda Protege5 with the FS2.0 Motor. The EGR Valve is located below the throttle-body. You must take off the Intake tube to get a good view of it. To replace it I think you might have to take off the throttle-body, but I'm not sure about that...(yet) NOTE: Mazda put out a technical note stating that "if your car has sat for a long time, the egr valve could be damaged by moisture (rain) and will need to be replaced". My 2002 Protege sat for 3 weeks and the rain caused this exact issue and had to be replaced. How did I know? The engine light came on (after never coming on) and the car had an extremely rough idle. Total cost was ~$400 (ouch).
A good protege seeks the counsel of a mentor on issues of importance A suggestion of a mentor is an instruction to the protege A good protege is - proactive - communicates often with a mentor - goal oriented - service oriented - thankful for the time the mentor invests in him/her