As your belts are made of rubber, any kind of oil on it WILL deteriorate the rubber and eventually cause the belt to break. I do NOT recommend putting brake fluid on the pully. I would replace the belt as in the long run it usually ends up being cheaper than trying to fix the problem yourself. If the pulleys still squeal, then I would make a stop by a mechanic and have him check on the squealing pulley as there may be a more serious problem than you think. A friend of mine just ignored the squealing and kept driving the car, and a couple of weeks later the water pump shaft snapped and blew the water pump literally to pieces and sent rad fluid rushing out all over the road.... To make a long story short, he could have avoided the $450.00 repair bill if he had it checked out by a mechanic.
DO NOT POUR ANY OIL ON A BELT go to any auto store and buy a stick of belt dressing if that doesn't fix it, buy a new belt and for sure, do not take sand paper to it
I also agree don't even think about putting Brake fluid on it. I would check the tension on all the belts first before going out and buying a new belt. Over time the belts can loosen. They can easily be tightened . go to any parts store and buy a car manual. They have all the specs and give every detail on how to tighten and how much tension each belt should have. Also if you do use belt dressing it might stop the squealing for a little while , but once it dries up the squeal will return if in fact it is loose.
This is most likely your belt squealing and not the clutch itself. Try some belt dressing available as a spray on from all parts store. If this stops the squealing you have a varnished belt and probably should replace it soon.
The belts are not aligned correctly, or something is bent; pulley, bracket, look and see . The belt should look straight.
You should not be getting belt squeal because it is a serpentine belt, and not a v-belt. The squealing is most likely a bad bearing in one of the pulleys. Whatever you do, do NOT use belt dressing on a serpentine belt, as this can cause more problems. I suggest you remove the belt, and turn each pulley by hand and listen for the squealing. Some, you may not be able to turn though, such as the crank pulley. They should turn smoothly, with no noise, or intermittent resistance.
If you want to remove the primer completely, you should use a 60 grit sandpaper. If you want to smooth out imperfections in the primer you should use between an 80-120 grit sandpaper.
check to see if the belt is cracked or hard. hard or cracked belts are prone to sqealing. also you can use a stethescope or screwdriver(the cheap way) to listen to the pulley itself. carefull not to get caught in the belt while doing this.
For pure sanding of bondo or metal, No. If you are preping to paint or sanding primer you should use Wet or Dry sandpaper and sand wet.
It depends on what surface you are sanding.
should be a sticker on fan shroud Alternator, idler pulley, power steering, a/c, tensioner pulley, crankshaft pulley, water pump this is the order cant upload the picture but when placing the belt on if the pulley has the grooves in it the grooved side of the belt should face the pulley and if the pulley is smooth then the back of the belt faces the pulley
Your pulley system that controls the motion of the belt and the tighness will either consist of 4 or five pulleys, with the Alt, being of course at the top. the very bottom pulley that likey can only be reached from under th car, should be your compressor pulley, the one in the middle, between the alt. and the compressor, should be your water pump with its pulley. Using the process of elimination, you can find out that there will be a pulley left, this is the belt tensioner pulley. It has a bolt in the center of it, it may be either 5/8 or 15 mm. This can be fitted with a wrench, or if you are lucky, a ratchet, and then turned as if you were loosening it, you will see the alt , pull up and it will be tightened this way, you may also want to apply some belt dressing. if this doesn't help , the belt may be squealing for another reason, such as the water pumb may be getting ready to go out or the compressor pulley may be getting loose.
Timing mark on the crankshaft pulley (mark should be at zero) must be aligned with the mark on the camshaft pulley (mark should be in the middle of the hole in the pulley).
Most likely a worn serpentine belt. Replacing the belt with a new one should correct the noise. If not the belt, it could be the idler pulley, which is not putting enough tension on the above belt, causing it to slip and thus squeal.
The water pump pulley is the pulley right above the crank pulley (the big pulley in the bottom of the engine.) Right above the water pump pulley should be the alternator pulley, which drives the alternator. I'm guessing the water pump is behind the WP pulley. == == == ==
Should be the pulley just above the crankshaft pulley
Should only be one bolt in the middle of the pulley that releases it.
It shaves a belt.
Using Sandpaper on HeadlightsNo you should never use sandpaper on your headlights. Using sandpaper to clean headlights is an archaic, low tech approach to a modern problem.Only someone who does not understand the difference between plastic objects and a plastic refractive lens would consider using something as aggressive as sandpaper on plastic headlights.Sandpaper strips away the surface of the lens along with the factory protective UV coating. You actually have to resurface your headlight when you use sandpaper. And no aftermarket kit or sealer can replace the UV layer to oem specs.Polish is a better solution than Sandpaper but it too can also remove part of the lens surface. A pure liquid Deoxidizer is the best solution for removing oxidation without damaging the lens surface.
After priming a gas tank you should use an 800 grit sandpaper before you spray on the base coat. Be sure the let the primer dry thoroughly before you sand.
The tension pulley should have a bolt that holds it on, allowing you to replace the unit.
400 grit sandpaper, before sanding melamine wash the surface with TSP soap and the rinse with water to remove any TSP residue
Take a piece of sandpaper and rip it to a size that will fit comfortably in your hand. fold it in half to get a better grip in it. If you are sanding corners, place the sandpaper in your hand such that the corner on the wood rests on the inside of your thumb with the sandpaper between. Run the sandpaper back and forth on the corner until the corner is sanded to the desired look. To sand a surface, either use a sandpaper block, or take a piece of sandpaper roughly twice the size of your palm, for it in half and run it on the wood in straight motions that go with the grain of the wood, with your hand, until the wood is the desired thickness. If by your question you meant "What grade sandpaper should I use on wood," the answer depend on what you want to do. To remove a lot of wood fast, use 60 or 70 grit sandpaper. For the final light shaping use 100 or 120, and to produce a perfect finish at the end use 220 or 240 grit.
it should be on the instructions or when you get the car they should tell you
possibly a bad brake...you should get all brakes done
Loosen the 17mm bolt in the middle of the pulley. Loosen the belt tensioner, and the pulley should slide off with a little help. Make sure to nothing the little key-way that lines the pulley up.
Loosen the 18mm bolt about 4 or 5 mm and give the bolt a good wack and the pulley should pop. Then remove the bolt and pulley.
there should be 3 or 4 bolts that hold pulley on, just remove these bolts a pulley should come off. but remove belt first ! if pulley keeps turning while removing bolts. you can hold it stationary with a scredriver or similar.