If the only damage done by the thrown rod bearing is that the crankshaft has become scored at that bearing's location (called a journal), you might be able to get away with having that particular crankshaft journal turned ("turned" here means to have the crankshaft reground and polished to smooth out scratches caused by the thrown rod bearing), as well as replacing the bad rod bearings with oversized (thicker) ones at the journals that were reground, to compensate for the slightly smaller diameter of the reground journals, but often more damage has also been done (bent or broken piston rod, damage to the piston and/or chamber at that location, etc.), requiring more repair or a replacement engine. But it's worth dropping the oil pan to have a look at the damage--you could get lucky.
Typically.... Connecting rod bearing / crank bearing. But it could also be piston slap, or flywheel.
The crankshaft may not have to be turned if the journals are smooth/undamaged but you should have it checked if you got it in your hand. It could be out of round.
The flat spots on a crank are called journals. There are main caps with bearings both sides that hold the crank in the block. The conn rods have similar bearings & they also attach to crank journals. The bearings are c-shaped copper things that go in the conn rod & main caps for the crank.
Rod bearing (short for connecting rod bearing) Is the bearing where the connecting rod is attached to the rotating crankshaft.
It depends on how much damage was done to the crank. If the journal is smooth and mics out as still round and close to original specs it will last just as long as a crank that has been turned. If you actually spun a bearing then you can bet that the crank journal will no longer be round and putting a new bearing in won't last long at all. You can pick up a mic gauge really cheap at harbor freight. The cheap ones will be plastic....and though they aren't as good as the professional ones, they will take fairly accurate measurements.
Mains 85------- rods 45
The main bearing and rod bearinging clearance is usually in the manual. However, if worse comes to worse, you can find it on your rods in the truck.
you have a couple options, you can pull the motor and have it rebuilt swap in a used motor from a junk yard drop the transmission and pull the crank, replacing it with a new crank rods and bearings if you are lucky you may not have scored the crank and you can replace the one bearing ang rod or you can junk/sell the car
Hi, your problem could quite possibly be your bottom end rod bearing. I have a kx 250 and I've just had to tear mine down and I'm fixing to replace it. The bearing I'm talking about is the one that is where the rod connects with the crank.
The easiest repair is to replace the engine. Otherwise the crank shaft will need replaced/remachined and the connecting rod will need replaced. Basically a complete overhaul.
If the bearing has not spun or seized, you drop the oil pan, take the rod cap off of the rod and put the new bearing in. The bearing is in two pieces, half in the rod and half in the rod cap. If the bearing has spun, you should remove the crankshaft and either have the rod journal polished or machined for a thicker bearing.
You cannot fix a rod bearing. Bearings must be replaced. While it is possible to replace a single rod set, a bottom end overhaul might be the way to go. The rational here is that if one bearing is bad, how far off are the others? In addition, if crank shaft journal service is necessary, the machine shop will supply that correct bearing size after machining .